You still need the resistor, said wiring never reaches the MS somehow, so there is nothing that the MS2 can do to help in that direction.

MS2 finally showed up.... Harness wires are so short :vash::confused::mad::eek4::ugh::nuts::td::nono:

Times to start cutting and extending before i can install.

fedex tracking shows mine as not moving for 5 days? I really dislike fedex.....

My fedex tracker is showing the same for an item I bought. I think they either broke the system, or something is seriously effed with fedex.

How longer would you prefer them to be? Genuine question here. I've installed two of these so far in local's cars and didn't have any problems with the wires being "short", however these being euro cars, the ECU location is the same as in the 90-93 cars.

Also, I would advise that you first test start the car before cutting and extending.

I was home all day friday waiting for another package, and tracking was working fine on the 23rd. But for this package, its been stuck on the 22nd.

On a american nb the ecu is above the steering shaft. On my 99 it's fine as i will remove the stock ecu and everything else under the dash to lose weight and have easy access but the 02 the stock ecu will be left in for emotions testing easy switching.

But seeing as i'm going with the hot swap set up with my 99 and 02 and 2 different map tunes. I would need the ecu somewhere like the glove box or passenger side firewall to make it easy to quickly remove and install.

Which of these should i order?
http://www.diyautotune.com/catalog/m...ong-p-452.html
http://www.diyautotune.com/catalog/m...ong-p-101.html

You will need two of the normal (not the MS3X) wiring bundles, the top DB37 has 27 wires while the bottom one has 15 wires.

I would also recommend that you use TXL "thinwall" wiring instead - it is lighter, tougher and more flexible.

I really only need to make the 02 harness longer. Can you give me a link to what your talking about or are you saying get http://www.diyautotune.com/catalog/m...ong-p-101.html

OK, so aside from FedEx phailing me hard... I need longer harness too? Or can I order an extension?

I know the connectors are the expensive parts. That's why cutting and extending is more cost effective.

b) Grey - Switchable tables. Connect this to a ground (through an on/off
switch) to switch between VE/Ignition tables.
c) Brown - Launch control. Connect this to a ground (through an on/off switch)
to switch launch control on/off.
d) Violet (purple) - Boost control low/high. Connect this to a ground

what if i'm not using any of these?

At the least use switchable tables. I make a 91 octane table for you when you can't run 93.

Tape them away!

Hi Rev,
Thanks for everything so far. I needed to know what boost control valve you would use so I can start sourcing one.
Happy New Year!
:yippee:

The one from DIYAutoTune.com works well!

Cars starts on first try (with out the car in gear) and smokes like a 50s , running richer then the gauge can read. Have to remove a butt load of fuel.

Be happy that it starts. I can make it run right in about 15 minutes. You're going to like this computer so much more than Failtronic.

don't do anything with them. Just tape them off so they cant accidentally touch a ground and trigger a switched table/launch.

So hook then all to a 12v power?