Singular Motorsports NA & NB Hood Louvers GROUP BUY
Thread Starter
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 3,310
Total Cats: 1,236
From: San Diego
^ I'm cracking up and I'm not even sure what I'm looking at, or if I should be looking 
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Joined: Jul 2014
Posts: 54
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Hey Ryan I got a few questions. It doesn't matter to me but we're the testing done with ...
Oem lower air director/undertray... On or off.
Radiator cooler plate Oem or aftermarket or none.
Cowl block (dead spot around the firewall) off aftermarket or Oem open.
I don't know if it's too late but just wondering if it really matter with or without.
Oem lower air director/undertray... On or off.
Radiator cooler plate Oem or aftermarket or none.
Cowl block (dead spot around the firewall) off aftermarket or Oem open.
I don't know if it's too late but just wondering if it really matter with or without.
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Thread Starter
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 3,310
Total Cats: 1,236
From: San Diego
We did most of the testing on a mostly stock car, this way it's not a matter of the test data only being relevant to a car with other drastic changes:
Hey Ryan I got a few questions. It doesn't matter to me but we're the testing done with ...
Oem lower air director/undertray... On or off.
On. This is an important part of the cooling system. Modified cars that have had this removed, like my time attack car, should have an aftermarket or custom undertray/splitter that replaces this.
Radiator cooler plate Oem or aftermarket or none.
The effects of the vent remain the same with or without this - but in terms of making the radiator work efficiently, this part is very important, especially with hood vents - without this area blocked off, vents up top will encourage air to bypass the radiator by going up and over the top of it. This problem is exaggerated by many of the other vent options out there which place the vent a little too far forward (ahead of the radiator), but it is still important to block this off in any case.
Cowl block (dead spot around the firewall) off aftermarket or Oem open.
Testing was done with stock configuration
I don't know if it's too late but just wondering if it really matter with or without.
Oem lower air director/undertray... On or off.
On. This is an important part of the cooling system. Modified cars that have had this removed, like my time attack car, should have an aftermarket or custom undertray/splitter that replaces this.
Radiator cooler plate Oem or aftermarket or none.
The effects of the vent remain the same with or without this - but in terms of making the radiator work efficiently, this part is very important, especially with hood vents - without this area blocked off, vents up top will encourage air to bypass the radiator by going up and over the top of it. This problem is exaggerated by many of the other vent options out there which place the vent a little too far forward (ahead of the radiator), but it is still important to block this off in any case.
Cowl block (dead spot around the firewall) off aftermarket or Oem open.
Testing was done with stock configuration
I don't know if it's too late but just wondering if it really matter with or without.
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i got a question, what tool did you use to measure the pressure??
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Your Source For Motorsports Safety Equipment
WWW.OGRACING.COM
800.934.9112
703.430.3303
info@ogracing.com
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Thread Starter
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 3,310
Total Cats: 1,236
From: San Diego
- Dwyer magnehelic gauges for pressure
- Turbo Kitten approved yarn for airflow
- Turbo Kitten approved yarn for airflow
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Well this sucks. Was really hoping to have something before Miatas@Hallett to keep coolant temps under control. TSE rad and full ducting isn't enough. Guess I'll be buying a reroute kit instead.
Really sucks that those of us who expressed interest long before there was talk of an actual product missed out because our schedules meant we missed out on the group buy.
Really sucks that those of us who expressed interest long before there was talk of an actual product missed out because our schedules meant we missed out on the group buy.
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Well this sucks. Was really hoping to have something before Miatas@Hallett to keep coolant temps under control. TSE rad and full ducting isn't enough. Guess I'll be buying a reroute kit instead.
Really sucks that those of us who expressed interest long before there was talk of an actual product missed out because our schedules meant we missed out on the group buy.
Really sucks that those of us who expressed interest long before there was talk of an actual product missed out because our schedules meant we missed out on the group buy.
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Thread Starter
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 3,310
Total Cats: 1,236
From: San Diego
Well this sucks. Was really hoping to have something before Miatas@Hallett to keep coolant temps under control. TSE rad and full ducting isn't enough. Guess I'll be buying a reroute kit instead.
Really sucks that those of us who expressed interest long before there was talk of an actual product missed out because our schedules meant we missed out on the group buy.
Really sucks that those of us who expressed interest long before there was talk of an actual product missed out because our schedules meant we missed out on the group buy.
We could do another group buy with a staggered ship date to follow the first batch but I have my reservations about this. If we focused our energy on getting full production going on this instead of multiple group buys, we'll probably have them available in a larger quantity and at a steadier rate sooner. And then we're talking about something that is in stock - you order and it ships, and we all like that more than group buys anyways. So bear with us
-Ryan
Last edited by ThePass; Aug 16, 2014 at 03:42 AM.
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!
I'm guessing you're talking about the best way to cleanly cut the hood and not to actually make the louvers themselves? If so I would be interested in this as well.
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My louvers are installed. Just want to see if the Pass can give some info on how he did it. My way worked and was fast, but corners are tough. My louvers are on top of the hood so the corners are hidden. If mounted underneath you'll want better corners than I have! HAHA
Maybe a jig saw with a super fine blade.
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I use a hole saw for the corners on S2000 hood vents like this. Then connect the holes with a cutoff wheel and clean the edges up with a file. The aluminum packs up cutoff wheels and files, so you have to take your time, but the end product looks nice.
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