how about it do the same with 3 pairs of jumper cables.

and my dad was surprised, shocked, and proud of the size of my jumper cables, thank you very much.

 

I only see that voltage when tested on the altima end of the jumper cables. tested back at the battery it was still at 12v. does that make sense?

 

Your denial to just put a battery in the car is disturbing.

 

Scott would rather spend $5 20 times to fix his car than buy a 99 dollar battery.

But what makes even less sense is that he implied his current battery is under warranty.

 

Scott,

Did you grow up with running water?

 

It always infuriates me when people ask for my "expert's advice" then proceed to ignore it and do their own anyway.

 

I'm not doing anything. Just trying to explain what I saw.

And I'm not refusing, I just don't have a spare battery to toss in, and only my dad's bimmers and the miata to pull one off, if worse comes to worse I'll have to try to miata battery and lose all my presets to the classical stations.

This is why I just tried it with jumper cables.

the car is 30 minutes from me, so it's hard to do this. I'll get my dad to try to get the battery swapped again today and make sure they at least try to load test it.


Ps, I have man crush on Reverant.

 

NO
NO MORE TESTING

just get it swapped. Play dumb. Whatever it takes.

 

Synopsis:


Brainy: Wutz wrong wit mah car guyth?

Rev: Battery
y8s: Battery
18psi: Battery
me: Battery
curly: Battery
Joe: Battery
pusha: Battery
your mother: Battery
everybody's brother: Battery

Brain: No, can't be the battery holmes u c, cuz it'sa chargin' an haz voltz.

 

 

Hey guys, I keep snapping studs on my turbo manifold. I saw TSE sells a hella expensive kit, but I am pretty sure I should be okay with some lock washers, right?

 

Take it back to advance and make them warranty it. I work in oreilly's and see this ---- all the time.

The battery will test good on a handheld analog or digital battery tester. Then if I test it in the charger/tester it will say "bad-cell replace"

When I was a noob at oreilly I actually had a guy threaten to kill me because I wouldnt warranty his battery that had this identical problem.

 

I put my miata battery in the car and here's what happened:

Cabin lights came on.
Dash lights came on.
Door chime was chiming.
headlights worked.
turn signals worked.
Crank the ignition and...






































































nothing happened, I lost all power to everything.
Cabin lights stopped working.
Dash lights stopped working.
Door chime stopped working.
headlights stopped working.
turn signals stopped working.


I pull the postive lead off the battery, put it back on and low and behold the power comes back on, try it again, and lose everything again. Battery voltage stays at 12.5v.

toss the battery back in my miata and it starts right up. I was going to try the altima battery in my miata but it's too large to reach and I was too lazy to get jump cables because as we determined by this thread, the physical location of the battery matter significantly.

I have a video, but I'll have to go home to upload it. I took my battery and will take it to get tested at the place I bought it and I'll pick up the starter.

 

Clean up the connections between the battery clamps and wiring.

 

Clean the contact on the starter and at the battery terminal for the main power lead. I went crazy trying to figure this out on my bus and the contacts on the starter just weren't making a good connection. Everything would turn on and work great until I tried to start it and then everything shut off.

 

starter contacts look new. honestly it's the shinyest bolt/nut I've ever seen. the rubber boot held strong throughout the years...my cv joints on the other hand...

battery cables/contacts are perfect, there's no corrosion.

 

So upon the first attempt to crank after connecting the battery everything goes completely dark and stays dark. I find it bizarre that you have to disconnect and reconnect the battery to get the power to return.

I know there is a brief disconnect of accessory power when cranking but why does it not come back after you release the key?

That's really bizarre.

Master relay maybe?

Do you have any modifications to the car like an aftermarket radio or alarm with or without remote start?

Have you checked over the fuse boxes yet?

 

If it makes you feel better, Braineack, we had two Nissans (a 2003 Altima and a 2005 Pathfinder) mysteriously and randomly die. The truck actually just completely shut off and lost all power (including power steering) while my wife was driving it on the highway.

Waited a few seconds/minutes and they started back up and drove fine; could not duplicate on demand. Decided cars were infected by the devil and sold to a clergyman willing to take on the task of exercising Satan.

 

I'm starting to wonder about the ignition switch.

 

What I said when Scott called me while I was driving back to work and stuffing my face. (and texting)