rharris19

iTrader: (41)

I am going to stick with it being a bad contact somewhere or possibly the main relay. I don't think it would be the ignition switch as it would seem that it would go back to acting normal on everything but start if it was messed up and not need to undo the battery to reset it.

Try turning the key to the run position and running a hot wire directly to the starter solinoid and see if it turns over if you have room to reach down there.

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

or, why don't i use a test light on the ignition switch terminal at the starter and see if it lights up when i crank the ignition?

mgeoffriau

iTrader: (7)

Is this a manual or automatic?

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

manual.

rharris19

iTrader: (41)

Just about to ask if he tried push starting it.

mgeoffriau

iTrader: (7)

I was thinking more along the lines of the park/neutral position switch.

rharris19

iTrader: (41)

So did you just look at this from the outside and not take the nut off? These can look good and clean, but when you take them off there is a gunk that has formed between the positive lead and positive in on the starter. There is something wrong between the positive lead on the battery and positive terminal on the starter. It may be the wire itself, but I strongly believe this area to be the culprit.

I am telling you that is exact same thing, to the letter, happened to our bus and the positive lead to the starter had a layer of gunk under it that we couldn't see.

That wouldn't cause all the other power to cut off though.

krissetsfire

iTrader: (1)

Me: Cluster/Immobilizer?

I've seen brain hang out at cr.net... maybe he's turning into one of them.

Just shooting from the hip. If you can't find it to be anything power related consider it could be something cluster related. 3rd generation locksmith here and I've seen a lot of random crap happen with instrument clusters/computers/immobilizers. Most cars with immobilizers have security lights but lets say the "receiver" dies... it doesn't always recognize it as a fault code. just doesn't read the "chip" (transponder) in your key. In turn not getting the "password" from the key to give it the go ahead.... not sure if my words are useful but when I first read this thread and saw the video that was the first thing I thought of. I don't think it's the immobilizer specifically just a possibility. The cluster and computer would be just as suspect to me. I'd start with the battery and relays first as well and cover the basics but anyway ....

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

I did when the power first died. the car shut off, as with ALL power. so when i tried to as I was rolling down the hill, nothing happened because there was no power to anything. apparently things like injectors and coils needs energy. crazy.

yeah, i took it off when i pulled the 12v wire off the starter.

Even lost the power to my little red LED for the security light. That typically flashes if there's an issue.

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

here's a new video for you guys:




somehow i looped the same video twice in my attempt at drama. damn. i cant do anything right.

yellowihss

iTrader: (20)

Before you repeat your steps, try this.

DMM positive lead to positive terminal only, not battery cable, or end.(leave everything hooked up, and only touch the center of the terminal.

DMM negative lead to engine ground (anywhere), not battery.

It should read the same as if you just tested the battery normally on positive, and negative terminals. ~12v-14v


Do the test again after you disconnect and reconnect battery, and run through your sequence to get everything off again.

What is your findings.

pusha

iTrader: (5)

is the car automatic or manual?

mgeoffriau

iTrader: (7)

Here, let me scroll up for you.

pusha

iTrader: (5)

thanks for the link bro

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

no comments on video? skip to 1:41.

pusha

iTrader: (5)

I just watched the video.

Scott!

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

useful comments?

rharris19

iTrader: (41)

That terminal on the battery looks corroded and you just loosely have it on there. Tighten it down on the terminal well.

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

they didn't fit well on the miata battery terminals, I had aluminum foil on the post to fill it in.

there's no corrosion. i promises.

rharris19

iTrader: (41)

You need better contact than that. I think, if all your main positive lines check out ok, then it is your battery. The setup you are using with the miata battery should not eliminate the battery as the cause. Did they load test the battery when you took it in or just say it was giving 12v back?