MartinezA92

iTrader: (4)

After doing a clutch on this damn car I'm sure it won't be that frustrating. I'd rather commit sudoku than do a clutch on this car agian

18psi

iTrader: (76)

Coil packs are tricky to wiggle out, but definitely not that hard.

hi_im_sean

iTrader: (3)

I do all 4 on my LGT in like an hour, 1.5 tops, not hard at all...

skidude

iTrader: (3)

Anybody know anything about airbags on Outbacks? My 05XT had the airbag recall done last week, and now I have the airbag light on. The dealership swears it is not their fault, that the code (36 I think) is for the indicator light up by the map lights, which is really common, but seems like a huge coincidence. The light came on during my drive home from having the recall performed. Two other codes were also there, for the clock spring.

They want $245 for the indicator, plus $100 to install it, then they can investigate whether the other two codes were erroneous or actually need to be fixed.

I should note that I replaced the steering rack a week or two before having the recall done, and while I had it out, the steering wheel got spun around a little bit. I don't know how far, but I think I got it put back in the center. It's possible it's off a turn though. Dealership said they do not need to pull the steering wheel to do the passenger airbag recall, so if the clock spring really is bad, that one is likely my fault.

So, I have an appointment for the indicator thing, but I am really not looking forward to paying a ton of money for the dealer to chase down this problem if it is my fault, but if it is their fault I don't want to waste my time and money chasing it at home. I also don't know a lot about the airbag systems, so I'm not sure whether replacing clock springs or indicators is something I should mess with.

What thinks the URABUS crowd?

18psi

iTrader: (76)

airbag lights light up immediately so if that was your fault it woulda been on before u brought it in

skidude

iTrader: (3)

I was thinking that, but then wouldn't the same be true of my ride home? The airbag light came on when I was halfway home. I was pulling out of a driveway and I heard a click in the steering wheel, then the light came on.

Leafy

iTrader: (1)

I've only ever done plugs on the subaru when the engine was pulled. I managed to pull it, change the valve cover gaskets, re-gap the plugs, and put it back in in like 8 hours by myself last weekend. And then driving home the alternator died, I probably should have done something about that a couple weeks ago when I noticed it was charging at 12.8v when trying to figure out why it misfired on cylinder 4 at hot idle.

x_25

The board up by the map lights, at least on the outbacks from the same time period, develop cracks in the solder joints. If it is the board, pop it out and reflow the joints should fix that. We had to do it on my Dad's 07 Outback. Common problem.

On spark plugs. On the EJ25 they aren't too bad. You need to usually pull the battrty, intake stuff and windsheild washer bottle (depending which year/model) to free up space to get to them. Pull the wires off, shove the spark plug socket in the hole, then figure out which combo of extensions lands your ratchet between the frame rail and the engine. Unbuild the extension stack as you pull the plug out. Instilation is reverse. Budget 3-4 hours for your first time. 1-1.5 aftet you figure it all out.

skidude

iTrader: (3)

Thanks, I will try that this weekend! Does that whole panel really just pop out? I tried pulling on one edge the other day and it seemed pretty solid up there.

x_25

No idea how it comes out. There should be a small circuit board with some resistors and LEDs up there for the airbag and other things though. It isn't big.

skidude

iTrader: (3)

I resoldered all the connections on that board, but the airbag light was still on.
I pulled the steering wheel and the roll connector is FUBAR. I just ordered a new one but can anybody tell me the most efficient way to unplug the old one? The harness for it disappears into the dash and I can't see the connectors so I'm not sure where to start pulling dash panels. The service manual just says "remove roll connector" like it's easy.

dcamp2

iTrader: (4)

Need a little help here. 2002 wrx, full exhaust, access port. Having a weird boost oscillation on steady throttle:



Any ideas?

18psi

iTrader: (76)

ditch the garbage oem 2port for a hallman pro rx
(assuming no boost leaks or bad wga)

16bit ecu is notorious for having archaic boost control that is almost never smooth when going past stg1

dcamp2

iTrader: (4)

If I go stage 1 tune on the AP is that going to help?

Don't want to spend money if it's not needed. I don't need to or want to turn up the power.

18psi

iTrader: (76)

does it have a downpipe? if yes then no. It's pretty simple: oe ecu and solenoid just don't have the capacity to properly control boost with newfound flow. put stock dp back on, go stg1, should be fine

dcamp2

iTrader: (4)

It has the cobb DP (don't have the stock one)... in that case- you are saying I need this manual boost controller? ECU/AP will be fine with manual boost control in place of the stock electronic solenoid one?

Thanks for the advice- I'm new to turbos/subaru etc.

dcamp2

iTrader: (4)

OK- found a big rip in the plastic turbo intake pipe (right at the worm clamp on turbo inlet). Anything else I should order/replace/fix while in there???

Spoon feed me plz.

MartinezA92

iTrader: (4)

check for boost leaks

dcamp2

iTrader: (4)

Planning on it. Is anything else a common failure point on these cars (while I'm ordering stuff)?

Leafy

iTrader: (1)

Put a non-factory but also non-ebay one in.