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The Dedicated URABUS Thread
#2422
For anyone keeping score, the WRX is back on its feet. The turn-in feels soooo much better now, and the whole front end of the car feels that much more put together. A+ and totally worth the effort :-)
Unfortunately I've got a new and totally different noise on my hands. I've got an intermittent grinding coming out of something in the front end. I'm hoping I assed up something in the front brakes when I put it back together. I can hear the grinding causing a resonant ringing noise out of the tin splash shield so I'm hoping it's just one of those silly spring clip things that holds in the pads.
If I managed to hork a wheel bearing while doing all this other work I may shoot myself.
Unfortunately I've got a new and totally different noise on my hands. I've got an intermittent grinding coming out of something in the front end. I'm hoping I assed up something in the front brakes when I put it back together. I can hear the grinding causing a resonant ringing noise out of the tin splash shield so I'm hoping it's just one of those silly spring clip things that holds in the pads.
If I managed to hork a wheel bearing while doing all this other work I may shoot myself.
#2423
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What specific part are you referring to? I'm guessing (13) in the Front Axle diagram above? I'm happy to investigate anything at this point so I don't have to do wheel bearings.
#2424
Ah, it has been a bit since I have looked at it. I would be refering to part 16 (the dust sheild) see the inner lip on it? The groove in a lot of after market rotors that that sits in isn't deep enough. On my dad's car the rotor wouldn't even bolt down flush without grinding it down some. I don't know if that is the case here, but it still.makes a shrrrrshing sound if he corners hard. And that sounds like what you are describing.
#2426
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Ahhh, I gotcha. That's an easy check, the brakes will come apart super easy and there should be a big gnarly bright rub mark on the rotor or the backing plate if this is the case. I'll be sure to check that, thanks man!
#2428
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I have an old auto urabus (02 TS), which fulfills daily duty. It's been a bit grumpy lately.
Had a few times where the battery light and ABS light started flashing. Diagnostic found a battery issue, so I swapped it. Went away for a week or two then happened once, but not again since then.
Yesterday there was a misfire for all of a minute and then it just vanished. Hasn't happened since.
Is my car possessed?
Had a few times where the battery light and ABS light started flashing. Diagnostic found a battery issue, so I swapped it. Went away for a week or two then happened once, but not again since then.
Yesterday there was a misfire for all of a minute and then it just vanished. Hasn't happened since.
Is my car possessed?
Did you charge the battery before install? If not, pull it out and put it on a low current charger overnight, like 2 amp or less. I've seen ABS lights come on with low battery issues, and the battery may not been fully charged as delivered new. It's possible the trips are short enough that the alternator may not be able to catch up, doubly so if its getting weak. Once the battery is topped up, you can attach a multi meter to a 12v source in the car so you can refer to it as the problem happens. That'll at least give you something you can check immediately.
I used to have my Fluke DMM setup in the cup holder and temporarily ghetto rigged the probes into the cigarette lighter socket. Super useful for checking intermittent issues. Just don't leave it there so the crackheads can smash and grab while you are up in the club. Or wherever.
They are nasty little critters, to be sure.
#2430
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The car used to go through brake light switches like nobody's business. Turns out there was an aftermarket cruise control installed so mechanic yanked it out. Things were good for a bit till the weird ABS light etc issue started. I did read on nasioc that it's an alternator sign, but it's so bizarrely intermittent. Right after the battery swap, the car ran solid on a trip to maine and back. It started acting up as my girlfriend and I were pulling into her neighborhood.
I just want this car to see me through grad school and then a bit if possible. 02 TS with 148k on the clock. Got the car for 2500, but it needed headgaskets done 10k miles later, so I ended up spending a lot more than I wanted to on it. It runs and drives super well for its age. It's pretty much the perfect grad student car.
#2433
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I don't want to jinx anything... but it hasn't acted up in like 2 weeks now. I'm so confused. I don't know if it was tired of giving warning and is just going to commit seppuku one of these days.
#2434
Just discovered this...
https://www.rallysportdirect.com/par...ercooler-black
So, I have been out of the Subaru thing for 3 years, but hot air still rises, yes? Why would someone spend so much money on a tmic? Genuine question, its angled, so what? How does that change heat soak that happens right away, or the fact that the scoop is still in a high pressure area in the bay?
https://www.rallysportdirect.com/par...ercooler-black
So, I have been out of the Subaru thing for 3 years, but hot air still rises, yes? Why would someone spend so much money on a tmic? Genuine question, its angled, so what? How does that change heat soak that happens right away, or the fact that the scoop is still in a high pressure area in the bay?
#2436
The subies are a cakewalk to work on compared to the miata.
I've had the axle seals under the sundial fail, it's not a big deal, index the location of the dial before removal with a paint pen, then you are good to go, just count the number of turns it takes to loosen.
If it is stubborn, do what I did and use a short ABS pipe and a mallet to loosen the dial, ABS is softer than aluminum, so it works a peach.
CV joint grease gets everywhere, nature of the beast. Smells nice when cooking on the cat.
To get all the grease out, try soil love. Use a plastic bristle brush (coarse hair) to work it into a grease paste and then it rinses off with water.
Sounds like a borked wheel bearing, the first thing you usually notice is the grinding sound, caused by the dust shield rubbing the rotor edge.
Jack up the car and wiggle the wheel, if it doesn't move, the bend the dust shield out of the way so it stops rubbing.
Check the spark plug wire on the misfiring cylinder.
Then check the tube, soaked in oil? Spark plug tube seals.
Otherwise it could be grounds, they do run amok in scoobs.
I've had the axle seals under the sundial fail, it's not a big deal, index the location of the dial before removal with a paint pen, then you are good to go, just count the number of turns it takes to loosen.
If it is stubborn, do what I did and use a short ABS pipe and a mallet to loosen the dial, ABS is softer than aluminum, so it works a peach.
CV joint grease gets everywhere, nature of the beast. Smells nice when cooking on the cat.
To get all the grease out, try soil love. Use a plastic bristle brush (coarse hair) to work it into a grease paste and then it rinses off with water.
Sounds like a borked wheel bearing, the first thing you usually notice is the grinding sound, caused by the dust shield rubbing the rotor edge.
Jack up the car and wiggle the wheel, if it doesn't move, the bend the dust shield out of the way so it stops rubbing.
I have an old auto urabus (02 TS), which fulfills daily duty. It's been a bit grumpy lately.
Had a few times where the battery light and ABS light started flashing. Diagnostic found a battery issue, so I swapped it. Went away for a week or two then happened once, but not again since then.
Yesterday there was a misfire for all of a minute and then it just vanished. Hasn't happened since.
Is my car possessed?
Had a few times where the battery light and ABS light started flashing. Diagnostic found a battery issue, so I swapped it. Went away for a week or two then happened once, but not again since then.
Yesterday there was a misfire for all of a minute and then it just vanished. Hasn't happened since.
Is my car possessed?
Then check the tube, soaked in oil? Spark plug tube seals.
Otherwise it could be grounds, they do run amok in scoobs.
Last edited by Ools; 02-09-2017 at 02:21 PM.
#2437
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If any of the above was meant for me, my most recent terrible noise was a bent backing plate rubbing on the rotor. I think I rolled the tire over it and bent it or something when moving parts around. I bent it back and the sound is gone. Bearings are fine, hubs are fine, everything is fine.
I want to do more bushings on the Subaru, and replace all the sloppy shifter linkage crap. Might buy the TiC Holy Shift bushing set, the one that does NOT include the short shifter.
I want to do more bushings on the Subaru, and replace all the sloppy shifter linkage crap. Might buy the TiC Holy Shift bushing set, the one that does NOT include the short shifter.
#2438
If any of the above was meant for me, my most recent terrible noise was a bent backing plate rubbing on the rotor. I think I rolled the tire over it and bent it or something when moving parts around. I bent it back and the sound is gone. Bearings are fine, hubs are fine, everything is fine.
I want to do more bushings on the Subaru, and replace all the sloppy shifter linkage crap. Might buy the TiC Holy Shift bushing set, the one that does NOT include the short shifter.
I want to do more bushings on the Subaru, and replace all the sloppy shifter linkage crap. Might buy the TiC Holy Shift bushing set, the one that does NOT include the short shifter.
You can do all the shifter stuff for the subaru, but it will still be miles from a sloppy miata shifter.
I found that on my shifter the main cause of slop was the missing inner roll pin.
Under the car there is supposed to be a roll pin within a roll pin securing the joint to the linkage.
If the inner one is missing there will be a lot of play.
I've literally done all of the shifter related bushings on the subie, with the upgraded joint, it's marginally better.
The miata needs a shifter rebuild due to all the slop, yet it's far more precise.
#2440
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I'm completely spoiled with the Miataroadster 6 speed shifter in the Miata. 18psi knows what I'm talking about
Shifting in the Subaru is like moving a big wooden spoon through a pot of oatmeal. I know the Subaru will never, ever be on the level of the Miata, but you guys are saying the marginal improvement isn't worth the effort? I can respect that.
Shifting in the Subaru is like moving a big wooden spoon through a pot of oatmeal. I know the Subaru will never, ever be on the level of the Miata, but you guys are saying the marginal improvement isn't worth the effort? I can respect that.