Yeah I'm forced to try it too, for the same reason lol

 

I have 4 jugs of it in the garage, will probably change the oil on the sti tonight.
Someone posted a report from a virgin analysis of the "new look" bottle, same stuff it looks like.

But apparently the new formulation will have different specs on the back. I'll have to see if I have an old jug to compare.

 

If you're curious in the differences between CK4 and CJ4:

Demistifying CK-4 and FA-4 oils

As I work in the industry, the only complaints I have been hearing from the switch, are some oil manufacturers are switching to a lower ZDDP content in their new oils, which some engine manufacturers are concerned about wear-out on. Specifically Ford:
Ford Offers CK-4 Alternative Oil for Super Duty Diesels - TopNews - Fuel Smarts - TopNews - TruckingInfo.com

In conclusion, I don't think you have much to be worried about, as pretty much all the changes were for the better.

 

well that's cool, I'll be reading that when I get a chance

I put it in last night, no issues.

 

Holy **** you need to post more, thank you for sharing that. Poscat for you.

I've been using DELO and Rotella T for years because the HDEO diesel oils were the only inexpensive things I could find with the Zinc/ZDDP in them that'll (theoretically) keep the cams happy in my flat tappet engines. Is there anything left out there that is cheap and easy with an additive package appropriate for these types of engines?

 

+1 I'd love to hear more of your thoughts on this matter

 

another awarded for dropping legitimate oil knowledge.

Have more available for more legitimate oil knowledge.

 

I can only give you my thoughts from a diesel engine perspective, since that's the industry I'm in.

CK4 vs. CJ4 - my top thoughts
-Oxidation resistance improvements - oxidation is a key indicator of how degraded your oil is getting, and CK4 makes changes to the oils, so that you can run longer drain intervals, which is becoming a very big deal in the semi truck industry.
-aeration improvements - kind of self explanatory, but some OEMs were requesting this, it's definitely not a bad thing.
- shear stability - basically your oil stays the same viscosity for longer, more along the lines of less oil degradation
- ZDDP levels - it sounds like some oil manufacturers are deciding to lower the amount of ZDDP (an added wear preventative). From the Ford article, it sounds like they are not getting the extra wear resistance from somewhere else, so I'm not sure their driver for doing this.

Since I am not an engineer working on gasoline engines, I can't tell you if there is something special that gasoline engine manufacturers look for in an oil. However, when designing a diesel engine, the main hitters for wear are ZDDP content, oil degradation (oxidation, TBN, and TAN), and viscosity. I do not believe that many gasoline engine oils use zinc, as I have heard that it does not play well with catalytic converters. With that being said, Dominator uses zinc and phosphorus as wear a preventer, so maybe since it's a race oil, it's not designed for cars with a cat, or maybe I have misheard the bit about cats? To answer your question Gordon, I have not researched enough to know what oils contain zinc, and which ones do not. I know for the time being, I'm going to continue to use T6.

Now, when validating and engine, and readying it for production, all OEMs will go through the process to validate specific oils. Or, more specifically, validate to the API standard, and use a variety of oils that meet the standard. Usually, the shittiest oil that at customer might use will be put in to a test vehicle, or ran in an engine dyno cell. Clearly ford was doing the oil validation, and found something they did not like. I hope this was helpful.

 

Shear stability would be nice. T6 was toast in the race miata in like 4 auto-x runs, hot idle with new T6 was like 30 psi, it was under 10 after an auto-x.

 

I used to be about the brotella life but after having oil pressure problems with my JDM sti oil pump I switched to motul. I decided to test the difference between the 2 with a blackstoine labs test kit because i had some old rotella dn a used motul oil change and it was a huge difference. i couldnt go back to rotella again. both oils came out of the same car after 3k miles and the rotella had far less life left and was much dirtier and had more metal in it than i would have liked. the motul now comes out looking rather clean for being run in a boxer. but i also run an AOS system now rather than the stock PCV so that might also add to the difference.

 

motul is likely better, no doubt, but is it enough better to justify the price increase?
that's the bottom line: brotella is popular cause its 90% the bang, for 60% the buck.

or something like that

 

Or go ultra-baller and use Miller Racing Oil.

There are guys on the BRZ forum using it and getting 7500 mile oil changes on E-85 with life still left in the oil, and that's including tracking on E85 as well.

 

For me yes I find the cost to be justified especially since I'm running a 190k ej255 at 300whp. So the best oil I can get I will use. My local tuner/parts supplier stocks it and I buy in bulk from him because I have multiple turbo subarus. But I cant say with my lower milage LGTs had problems with oil and they only got 5w40 T6.

 

What's the consensus on best sti 6sp and sti rear lsd fluid?
'Bout to do both on this 08 I picked up and can't decide if I want to pick up OEM fluid from dealer (not extra-s, they don't have that anymore) or maybe get amsoil mtg/svg.

I see motul mentioned everywhere, and have done the "andrewtech cocktail" before, but aside from that, what's the next best? This is just a daily driver getting routine maint, nothing crazy

I know next to nothing about transmission/diff fluids. Just kinda replaced em with whatever people told me over the years (usually just OEM)

 

Also let's have a Subaru nerd poll, what do you guys think looks better:

2008 sti front end



or 2011+ front end




The front bumper on my sti is chipped and beat to death. I'm tossing around the idea of upgrading to the 11+ front bumper. It would require new grille, new fog covers, and new fender liners to make it all work. Not sure if worth the $500 premium over just replacing with another 08 cover

 

Oo! Can I have the little scoopy things off the front of the 08 bumper before you toss it? If you don't move them to the new bumper, of course.

 

I like the look of the 2011-14s. they look mean but having an 08 id say keep it 08. thode done properly also look so nice. If it was my car i would run motul but if you cant get that the oem gear oil is actually very good and we have very good luck with it here at my urabus dealership. i was doing a trans rebuild on a 2012 sti last week for noise and it was caused by running the wrong fluid. wasted 3rd and 4th and had a bearing seize to the main shaft of the trans. not fun to fix. but put the oem in the trans after rebuilding it and it was quieter than a church mouse.

keeping it at a stockish build the oem fluid will be great and easy to get without paying a premium for motul or the cocktail which are the only other 2 I would suggest.

 

I was just checking motul prices. 22/quart. OUCH

 

Finally drove a current body Tacoma.

Drove a 2017 Colorado Z71 gas, then the next day drove a '16 Tacoma and a '15 GMC Canyon back to back.

the GM trucks drive so, so much nicer. The transmission in the Tacoma was awful. The engine doesn't have the low-end torque of the GM trucks.

The 2017 Colorado with the 8-speed auto is excellent, but even the 6-speed auto Canyon was far better than the Taco in terms of drivability and smoothness.

yeup.

 

Well, in reality, how often do you change it?

Assuming you changed it annually as a service interval (and by some miracle you managed to own a car for more than a year at a time)

6ltr of Motul Gear 300 x$22 = $132
5qts MTG + 1qt SVG x$16 = $96

6qts Subaru HPGO x$13 = $78 (random internet pricing)

(Capacities from this post.)

So you save $36/yr by going with Amsoil over Motul (or $58/yr going with OEM over Motul.) At that point is it worth saving the extra $36 if you are going to pony up and fill it with aftermarket juice anyway? The only case where the pricing actually matters is if the Motul sucks so bad you want to change it out for something else, but it does not sound like that is going to be an issue.

Plus, you can impress the next buyer by putting "Trans and diffs serviced with nothing but the best ultra premium Motul synthetic gear oils" in your future For Sale posting on Craigslist.

After some googling of pitchars I vote 11+ bumper.