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The Dedicated URABUS Thread
dropping the trans actually looks very easy--Just have to go through the effort of the axles.
the access to the trans itself is better than any car i've ever seen.
I wouldn't want to pull a motor to do a clutch job unless i had other reasons, and i dont have those reasons. plus my garage clearance is low and i dont think i can pull a motor in there anyway.
the access to the trans itself is better than any car i've ever seen.
I wouldn't want to pull a motor to do a clutch job unless i had other reasons, and i dont have those reasons. plus my garage clearance is low and i dont think i can pull a motor in there anyway.
I cleaned the alignment pins before reinstall to make it easier, that helped.
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Yes, you want to wedge something between the pan and the front of the subframe to keep engine from sloping forward. ideally you want to push tail of trans as low as possibru, that way engine front sticks up as high as possibru, and "lock it in" place.
Will help re-installation quite a bit
Will help re-installation quite a bit
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Thread Starter
Elite Member
iTrader: (37)
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 10,477
Total Cats: 1,924
From: Very NorCal
On Gesso's Forester we ended up with 2 dowel pins on the same side (replacement block) then managed to shear off the little wire tang thing inside the EAT4 3 piece (of ****) input shaft. Much wailing and gnashing of teeth ensued, followed by a trip to the Subaru dealer and the next weekend the engine went in.
I hope my clutch swap goes better. I'm digging the advice coming out of this thread
I hope my clutch swap goes better. I'm digging the advice coming out of this thread
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your clutch swap took me about 2 hours. Its really easy on 205's to be honest, less stuff in the way. make sure to yank that catted up pipe out at the same time, it will make both jobs easier anddddd make more power aanndddd be safer.
win/win/win
win/win/win
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Thread Starter
Elite Member
iTrader: (37)
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 10,477
Total Cats: 1,924
From: Very NorCal
I know you said to just buy a disk, but I couldn't find one and just ordered an OEM replacement Exedy kit for like $150 off amazon. Done and done. ANd I have the up pipe, I just need to get around to installing it. Lots of **** in the way with that one.
You should sell me one of them equal length headers, so I can make people cry when they see it hooked up to a stock turbo and DP
You should sell me one of them equal length headers, so I can make people cry when they see it hooked up to a stock turbo and DP
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dropping the trans actually looks very easy--Just have to go through the effort of the axles.
the access to the trans itself is better than any car i've ever seen.
I wouldn't want to pull a motor to do a clutch job unless i had other reasons, and i dont have those reasons. plus my garage clearance is low and i dont think i can pull a motor in there anyway.
the access to the trans itself is better than any car i've ever seen.
I wouldn't want to pull a motor to do a clutch job unless i had other reasons, and i dont have those reasons. plus my garage clearance is low and i dont think i can pull a motor in there anyway.
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Thread Starter
Elite Member
iTrader: (37)
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 10,477
Total Cats: 1,924
From: Very NorCal
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Well new (used) transmission got here 1/21/2014 in the morning. I got pulled the tail shaft housing off, pulled the center diff, and took it apart and removed all then needle bearings the planet gears rotate on and replaced them with some custom bushings. Then spent 1.5hrs trying to figure out how to put it back together with that clutch pack on the rear....
Then reinstalled torque converter, 10 other things, had to pull the filter screen from old trans, clean (3.5 bottles of brake parts cleaner) it, reinstall int on my new trans, clean pan, mating surfaces, 21 tiny bolts, install pan, etc. Getting it to this point took about 9 hrs to get it ready to go back into the car.
Somehow put a 200 lb transmission under my car onto a floor jack pad 4 3/4" off the ground after about 30 minutes of struggling to try to do it by myself, then balanced it and after about 40 more minutes it was bolted to the engine and the converter bolts installed. Then hooked up all the stuff that goes to the trans, exhaust, driveshaft, wiring. Then cleaned up and shower.
Still got axles, uprights, wheels, upper trans mount, diff fluid, trans fluid, intercooler/fan assembly, find/buy bolts for a heat shield I somehow lost and install said heatshield, spin on new trans filter, install battery, turn key and see what happens.
I sure hope this thing works! A lot of work doing all this.
On a separate note, I checked the play in the planet gears before/after the bushings and the bushings took out probably 50-70% of the "movement". So much better. If I had the time/parts , I would have installed new pins too as they had a touch of wear that potentially would have tightened it up a bit more.
Hopefully back to doing awd burnouts tomorrow!
Then reinstalled torque converter, 10 other things, had to pull the filter screen from old trans, clean (3.5 bottles of brake parts cleaner) it, reinstall int on my new trans, clean pan, mating surfaces, 21 tiny bolts, install pan, etc. Getting it to this point took about 9 hrs to get it ready to go back into the car.
Somehow put a 200 lb transmission under my car onto a floor jack pad 4 3/4" off the ground after about 30 minutes of struggling to try to do it by myself, then balanced it and after about 40 more minutes it was bolted to the engine and the converter bolts installed. Then hooked up all the stuff that goes to the trans, exhaust, driveshaft, wiring. Then cleaned up and shower.
Still got axles, uprights, wheels, upper trans mount, diff fluid, trans fluid, intercooler/fan assembly, find/buy bolts for a heat shield I somehow lost and install said heatshield, spin on new trans filter, install battery, turn key and see what happens.
I sure hope this thing works! A lot of work doing all this.
On a separate note, I checked the play in the planet gears before/after the bushings and the bushings took out probably 50-70% of the "movement". So much better. If I had the time/parts , I would have installed new pins too as they had a touch of wear that potentially would have tightened it up a bit more.
Hopefully back to doing awd burnouts tomorrow!
Anyways, got it back on the road.
With the fluid mix, it does shift firmer/faster. Nothing crazy, but at least noticeable. Also seems to have improved torque holding capacity as expected because less friction modifiers, gear changes under WOT at Stage 2 make stock transmissions slip. This one now, on the 1-2 shift slips a little (tiny bit more than stock) and the 2-3 shift is normal, no slip. Before the 1-2 shift was a full second of slippage before it grabbed, and the 2-3 was about 0.75 seconds of slippage.
Put about 80-100 miles on it so far, nothing bad has happened.... So I think it's fixed!
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Indeed sir! Very happy everything is working. After upgrading and swapping the trans, I took it to the dealer for an oil change the next day..... Haha, didn't' want to crawl under the subaru anymore! Also 38 out the door for an oil change at the dealer isn't that bad.
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Maybe a dumb question, but I now have about 10K miles on my new subaru shortblock. Been running subaru oil in it since I had it put in. I think they use semi-synthetic.
Should I switch it over to synthetic at some point? I try to change the oil every 4K mile in it more or less.
Should I switch it over to synthetic at some point? I try to change the oil every 4K mile in it more or less.
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rotella t6 for the win.
there is really nothing great about oem subaru oil. lots of detergents and junk
for filters, on the other hand, I only use oem because of the very specific pressure the valve is set to
there is really nothing great about oem subaru oil. lots of detergents and junk
for filters, on the other hand, I only use oem because of the very specific pressure the valve is set to
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