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The Dedicated URABUS Thread
I hear 7-10k is not out of the norm on a synth, waste of money doing it more frequent.
That of course assumes easy/daily driven miles not any sort of track use or abuse.
Also checking the level has nothing to do with it, and should be done often, like every or every other fuel fill up. the EJ's sometimes like to drink a bit of oil, and if you don't stay on top of it you quickly learn a valuable lesson.
Of all the ones I had only 1 drank a little oil, it was my 07 wrx
That of course assumes easy/daily driven miles not any sort of track use or abuse.
Also checking the level has nothing to do with it, and should be done often, like every or every other fuel fill up. the EJ's sometimes like to drink a bit of oil, and if you don't stay on top of it you quickly learn a valuable lesson.
Of all the ones I had only 1 drank a little oil, it was my 07 wrx
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From: Very NorCal
Purolator PL14460 also seems to be a good choice. It's not listed as "correct" for my particular Subaru application but it meets the criteria better than all the other filters that are listed. For example, it has the correct 20-25psi bypass valve setting as opposed to the 12-14psi you see on things like he Mobil 1 that's listed for my car. Even the WIX listed for the WRX isn't spec'd correctly.
I'm on the recommended 3750 mile interval with T6, mostly because I do way WAY too many short hops :(
The PL14460 may interfere with the exhaust on some of the later engines/models as its a bit larger in diameter, but fits great on my EJ205 GG
I'm on the recommended 3750 mile interval with T6, mostly because I do way WAY too many short hops :(
The PL14460 may interfere with the exhaust on some of the later engines/models as its a bit larger in diameter, but fits great on my EJ205 GG
Last edited by EO2K; Jan 25, 2015 at 07:03 PM.
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I use the oem series 2 RX8 oil filter on the wrx for a number of reasons; 1, it has the same bypass pressure as the wrx one, 2 its also not made by honeywell/fram like the oem subaru one, 3 I order them by the case from mazdaspeed and also use them in the miatas.
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I hear 7-10k is not out of the norm on a synth, waste of money doing it more frequent.
That of course assumes easy/daily driven miles not any sort of track use or abuse.
Also checking the level has nothing to do with it, and should be done often, like every or every other fuel fill up. the EJ's sometimes like to drink a bit of oil, and if you don't stay on top of it you quickly learn a valuable lesson.
Of all the ones I had only 1 drank a little oil, it was my 07 wrx
That of course assumes easy/daily driven miles not any sort of track use or abuse.
Also checking the level has nothing to do with it, and should be done often, like every or every other fuel fill up. the EJ's sometimes like to drink a bit of oil, and if you don't stay on top of it you quickly learn a valuable lesson.
Of all the ones I had only 1 drank a little oil, it was my 07 wrx
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I just got my Blackstone labs report back for my 04 WRX with Rotella T6 changed at ~5500 miles on oil, and it still had plenty of life left.
So I will definitely be changing oil around 7-10k from now on.
So I will definitely be changing oil around 7-10k from now on.
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/\ very cool. I love to see those reports
I just checked when I last changed mine- 1500 miles ago. About a year ago.
At this rate my next oil change on the subaru will be in about 5 years
I just checked when I last changed mine- 1500 miles ago. About a year ago.
At this rate my next oil change on the subaru will be in about 5 years
Last edited by 18psi; Jan 26, 2015 at 01:52 AM.
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From: Very NorCal
You sound like my wife.
I just did the math and if I only DD to work, I'd put 2,600 miles on the car per year.
52 wks x 5 d/wk x 10mi/d = 2,600 miles per year. No wonder the insurance company keeps sending me "mileage audits" for my vehicles.
52 wks x 5 d/wk x 10mi/d = 2,600 miles per year. No wonder the insurance company keeps sending me "mileage audits" for my vehicles.
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You know, you could put ally your old vehicles on antique type insurance if you only drive so little and save a bundle of money. We're talking literally 20% of what you pay now. With better paying coverage, like getting the real value rather than KBB value. You just need to keep your newest vehicle on normal insurance.
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From: Very NorCal
You know, you could put ally your old vehicles on antique type insurance if you only drive so little and save a bundle of money. We're talking literally 20% of what you pay now. With better paying coverage, like getting the real value rather than KBB value. You just need to keep your newest vehicle on normal insurance.
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Yeah. I'm switching the miata to it, at a 40k agreed value, and also 8k in spares and spare wheels and tires (IE to cover me if the garage burnt down or if someone store the trailer), for me, 25 year old unmarried male, its like $280/ year with a $500 deductible. Vs the $450 I pay my parents to insure it for through geico that would only give me like 3k if it got stolen.
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Yeah. I'm switching the miata to it, at a 40k agreed value, and also 8k in spares and spare wheels and tires (IE to cover me if the garage burnt down or if someone store the trailer), for me, 25 year old unmarried male, its like $280/ year with a $500 deductible. Vs the $450 I pay my parents to insure it for through geico that would only give me like 3k if it got stolen.
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Joined: Apr 2014
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From: Beaverton, USA
Yeah. I'm switching the miata to it, at a 40k agreed value, and also 8k in spares and spare wheels and tires (IE to cover me if the garage burnt down or if someone store the trailer), for me, 25 year old unmarried male, its like $280/ year with a $500 deductible. Vs the $450 I pay my parents to insure it for through geico that would only give me like 3k if it got stolen.
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Its switching in april, already signed with Heacock (thought it was haggerty, was wrong), geico is paid till then anyways. I believe the mileage limit was like 1500, might be wrong since I might put like 300 miles on it a year.
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