Epoxy that is like JB Weld x 1000
#1
Slowest Progress Ever
Thread Starter
iTrader: (26)
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: The coal ridden hills of Pennsylvania
Posts: 6,025
Total Cats: 304
Epoxy that is like JB Weld x 1000
As the title says, I am looking for a two part epoxy system that I can put on some threads of a stud, and then screw it into, say, threads that are one size bigger, and then walk away for 24 hours. On my return it needs to create a watertight seal and withstand me torquing it to say 70 ft lbs.
What is there that can do this?
Thanks in advance and Merry Christmas you little jerks!
What is there that can do this?
Thanks in advance and Merry Christmas you little jerks!
#4
Boost Pope
iTrader: (8)
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Chicago. (The less-murder part.)
Posts: 33,046
Total Cats: 6,607
Yeah, unless it's just totally inaccessible, this sounds like a threaded insert job to me.
70 ft lbs is a non-trivial amount of torque, and I assume that vibration and heat-cycling will also be involved.
70 ft lbs is a non-trivial amount of torque, and I assume that vibration and heat-cycling will also be involved.
#6
Slowest Progress Ever
Thread Starter
iTrader: (26)
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: The coal ridden hills of Pennsylvania
Posts: 6,025
Total Cats: 304
Here's what happened.
1948 ****** flathead 4 cylinder. Was running like it had a vacuum leak, and the exhaust manifold had a nasty crack in it. I removed it all, and broke off the stud that's closest to the firewall (and has the least amount of room to get to) flush with the block. I managed to drill out the old stud, which consisted of drilling it completely out. No heat/ ez out would have it to budge. I ran a 3/8-16 tap through it to clean the threads up, which looked fine. Thread the new stud in it, and it feels sloppy. When I say sloppy, I mean it wiggles a little bit, and when you try to torque it, it feels like it's pulling out. This stud also blocks off a water jacket, so it must be tight and sealed. Here's photos with a right angle die grinder to show lack of clearance, and then the photo with the stud screwed in.
1948 ****** flathead 4 cylinder. Was running like it had a vacuum leak, and the exhaust manifold had a nasty crack in it. I removed it all, and broke off the stud that's closest to the firewall (and has the least amount of room to get to) flush with the block. I managed to drill out the old stud, which consisted of drilling it completely out. No heat/ ez out would have it to budge. I ran a 3/8-16 tap through it to clean the threads up, which looked fine. Thread the new stud in it, and it feels sloppy. When I say sloppy, I mean it wiggles a little bit, and when you try to torque it, it feels like it's pulling out. This stud also blocks off a water jacket, so it must be tight and sealed. Here's photos with a right angle die grinder to show lack of clearance, and then the photo with the stud screwed in.
Last edited by thirdgen; 12-26-2017 at 11:50 AM.
#10
Boost Pope
iTrader: (8)
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Chicago. (The less-murder part.)
Posts: 33,046
Total Cats: 6,607
I seriously would want to do it right if it were my truck. That means drilling, tapping, and putting in an insert. Even if I had a vial of wackbards' $1,500 spacecraft epoxy, I wouldn't use it on an exhaust stud.
#12
Oh man, you got plenty of room if you can get a right angle grinder in there. My recommendation is to
get a cheap dotco right angle pneumatic drill motor. They are super low profile. The cutters thread into the head instead of using a chuck. Get the drill motor, the correct diameter cutter, and the correct size drill bushing. It's hard to drill straight with one of these drill motors. You might have to get two cutters of different lengths, cut the first part of the hole with a really short cutter, and then when you have to use the longer cutter, just put the cutter and bushing on the hole before threading the cutter on to the drill motor. The threading is really short, like less than a half inch.
**EDIT** ok, maybe building planes has skewed my perspective on affordable. Those motors are expensive from dotco.
get a cheap dotco right angle pneumatic drill motor. They are super low profile. The cutters thread into the head instead of using a chuck. Get the drill motor, the correct diameter cutter, and the correct size drill bushing. It's hard to drill straight with one of these drill motors. You might have to get two cutters of different lengths, cut the first part of the hole with a really short cutter, and then when you have to use the longer cutter, just put the cutter and bushing on the hole before threading the cutter on to the drill motor. The threading is really short, like less than a half inch.
**EDIT** ok, maybe building planes has skewed my perspective on affordable. Those motors are expensive from dotco.
#13
Here's one used on eBay for $140
https://m.ebay.com/itm/Dotco-90-degr...-/302576639395
I think this style has a 1" head
https://m.ebay.com/itm/Dotco-90-degr...-/302576639395
I think this style has a 1" head
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
mgeoffriau
Miata parts for sale/trade
3
07-10-2010 10:07 PM