sixshooter

iTrader: (12)

Helping Garman decide what components to ditch on the fueling and charcoal canister front for his exocet build.

He is going to be initially starting the car on the stock ECU verify operation and then will be switching to megasquirt.

We are in a non emissions state.

The shiny round cap in the top of the fuel tank is connected to a hose which is connected to a T. One side of that t goes to the filler neck and the other side goes to an electrical component and a charcoal canister I believe. What can be done with this?

There is another small hose on the filler neck that appears to go to some other electrical components and possibly the front charcoal canister. What of these things may be omitted?

The objective is to eliminate everything non-essential. If you are making a dune buggy what things are necessary and what things could and should go away?

I've included pictures of some of these components to Aid in identification but I'm driving and it is dark and I'm using the mobile app so I can't label or make arrows or even research on a computer right now. Any assistance or clarification would be greatly appreciated.

DNMakinson

iTrader: (3)

Pics and Schematic

You want to keep the line going from the tank to fuel neck and then from fuel neck to the vent. That way you get a anti-syphon and won't drain the tank from the vent. Just don't over-fill or you will force raw gas out of the vent.

Where you pulled out the canister, splice that into the line coming from the fill neck. You can see the re-connect on the diagram. Dump all electric stuff except the pump.

Of course this presumes you use your original fill, which I don't know is true on an Exocet.

EDIT: If that does not answer all the questions, post again and I'll respond to each one. Also the shiny thing is a roll-over that plugs the vent and prevents gas from spilling... in a rollover.

sixshooter

iTrader: (12)

Post #78 seems to have the info. I'll try to get a good look at it on the computer.

sixshooter

iTrader: (12)

@Garman
@Garman

Garman

Awesome! That explains a lot. It'll be nice to get rid of all that junk. Thanks for the help.

LukeG

I've got the Exocet factory fuel tank setup in a way that actually works and let's you fill the tank quickly and to the top. I'll post some pics tonight.

tomrev

On my NB2 (2002), LFX build, I retained the canister, and vent line from the engine back, and hooked up the LFX solenoid valve on the intake to the stock LFX wiring harness. Back at the tank, I removed all the Miata ECU triggered solnoid valves, and replaced them with plastic unions. It's now a complete, closed system, and the LFX takes a gulp when it feels like it, and i have no gassy smells. It works out pretty compact, and the only possible negative is having the canister still hanging under the car. As my build was a street car, it made sense to me, and was easy, almost no cost solution.

LukeG

What are you using for the fuel filter and regulator? I'm using a 99 returnless system and trying to figure this out.

gooflophaze

If it's like ours, Wix 33737. Built in 60-ish psi FPR, $40. Has AN adapters available for it.

tomrev

I used the Corvette filter/regulator that Gooflefaze listed. Converted at the tank top to -6 AN lines, like all the V8 guy's, and ran -6 to the 'Vet filter/reg., then up to the engine, and retained all the stock Miata canister functionality. It works fine, and is reasonably in plumbing layout.

LukeG

Awesome, thanks guys. Will it work with E85?

gooflophaze

Should, it's a very popular filter/FPR for conversions. It's a C6(?) Vette FPR. There's another BMW filter that's similar that has pipe nipples instead of GM's clips for hoses.