Do you have a sales rep? I had a huge problem with inconsistent delivery and pickup times...delivering at 4:30 PM when I leave the store at 5 PM. I called and complained over and over to my rep until they worked something out with the local depot.

I get my delivery by 12 PM every day now, pickup at 3:30 sharp.

 

Whole milk it is then!

 

I get things delivered to my house normally, so no sales rep. Had I known about needing a signature I would have had them sent to work.

 

Oh, I see...I thought you were talking about a business account, not just home delivery. Yeah, good luck with that.

 

Vicodin and beer have me slightly fucked up right now.

Time to go pick a fight somewhere.

 

Hey, Mg, feeling up to the Vash challenge? :wink:

 

What?

 

I got myself a brand new, tube amplifier, its large and lovely and it smells just like a dream.


Blackstar HT-40.

 

I have a mesa boogie coliseum 300

 

I'm not a huge milk fan in general (meaning I'd just as soon not sit down and drink a glass of it) however when poured atop cereal I find almond milk to be quite enjoyable. Much better than any of the reduced-fat "real" milks that are commonly available at the supermarket.

 

My ship date got pushed at least one week, maybe more. :sad:

goosfraba...

My bro has a Blackstart HT-5 that he likes, he's been through a few trying to find the right one. I think he said something about a Mesa Boogie dual rectifier, but I don't know what that is.

 

cruising down the freeway in my supra today, @ 70mph, then all of a sudden a it felt like my wheel went violently out of balance... well I got home, going slowly down my driveway hearing a clanking sound... turns out my aluminum driveshaft sheared one bolt and loosened the other 4. This is when I found out my driveshaft IS aluminum, but it looks like they used inferior bolts, since one seems stretched and at the brink of snapping...

So...

...what should I do? The differential flange isnt threaded, neither is the driveshaft flange, so should I get bolts and nuts, or should I tap threads into the differential flange?

 

Just my 2c Pen2...

But that's not something I'd just throw back in with any old set of nuts and bolts. You need to find out why it sheared the bolt, and if any damage was done in the shearing. Secondly, get OEM bolts/nuts for that - it's the only spot on any of my vehicles I make certain to use OEM nuts/bolts on.

 

agreed, I have looked all over the place but couldnt find anything but the thought of torque... what ever idiot installed this shaft used a basic class 8.8 metric bolts, so the failure isnt much of a surprise to me, I am just glad it didnt end in catastrophic failure. It may need something to dampen vibrations if any that run through that shaft, so when I put it back in I think I will use some silicone in between the shaft and the diff.

I was thinking that aluminum resonates more than the conventional steel shafts.

 

They just need to be balanced. Use class 10.9 or grade 8 hardware and you'll be fine.

 

Bolts and nuts seems to be the most common method from what I've seen. It's how the Miata driveshaft is held onto the diff. Come to think of it, I'm not sure I've ever seen a threaded hole in a driveshaft or diff input flange.

As Bryce said, just find some appropriately-sized class 10.9 bolts and nuts, loom up the proper torque spec for whatever size you end up with, and install 'em. Use split lockwashers on the nut side.

 

as you can tell, I have never messed with driveshafts that much, so I dont remember if the miata was threaded or not. I am probably going to do the nut and bolt thing then, ill pick up some class 10 bolts from the bolts and washers store here in town, maybe get fancy and get allen head bolts with locking nuts ... if it did it once I want to be sure it wont do it again, plus I love the look of allen head bolts for automotive work.


Thanks guys, I love you all <3

 

No.

You want class 10.9 bolts, and nothing else. These will have a silver finish, a hex head and a broad shoulder (like a washer) formed into the base of the head where it contacts the workpiece.

 

NO. 18 yr old *****. NO. BAD.

 

Apparently you can get socket-headed class 12.9 fasteners from mcmaster.com. What a bauce.