How (and why) to Ramble on your goat sideways
when i clicked your link i went here: http://www.sears.com/shc/s/search_10...+Active+Jacket
strange.
strange.
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Can anyone please explain the easiest way possible to hook up a printer to a wireless network???
My old router had the "push to sync" button, this new one does not.
I finally got our wireless network working again at the shop by switching routers, but now I have to keep going into the other office just to hook up the USB cord to print. If I could just stay back here and print wireless it'd save me a lot of aggravation.
I know how to get into the router, but I'm not sure what to do once I'm in there.
If it helps any, the router is a Linksys WRT54GX2 and the printer is a Dell V515W.
Many thanks in advance!
My old router had the "push to sync" button, this new one does not.
I finally got our wireless network working again at the shop by switching routers, but now I have to keep going into the other office just to hook up the USB cord to print. If I could just stay back here and print wireless it'd save me a lot of aggravation.
I know how to get into the router, but I'm not sure what to do once I'm in there.
If it helps any, the router is a Linksys WRT54GX2 and the printer is a Dell V515W.
Many thanks in advance!
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Connect the printer via USB, set up wifi connection in printer settings, unplug USB, win.
http://support.dell.com/support/edoc...n/ug/en_ug.pdf
http://support.dell.com/support/edoc...n/ug/en_ug.pdf
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Can anyone please explain the easiest way possible to hook up a printer to a wireless network???
My old router had the "push to sync" button, this new one does not.
I finally got our wireless network working again at the shop by switching routers, but now I have to keep going into the other office just to hook up the USB cord to print. If I could just stay back here and print wireless it'd save me a lot of aggravation.
I know how to get into the router, but I'm not sure what to do once I'm in there.
If it helps any, the router is a Linksys WRT54GX2 and the printer is a Dell V515W.
Many thanks in advance!
My old router had the "push to sync" button, this new one does not.
I finally got our wireless network working again at the shop by switching routers, but now I have to keep going into the other office just to hook up the USB cord to print. If I could just stay back here and print wireless it'd save me a lot of aggravation.
I know how to get into the router, but I'm not sure what to do once I'm in there.
If it helps any, the router is a Linksys WRT54GX2 and the printer is a Dell V515W.
Many thanks in advance!
Starts at page 81. RTFM
For serious though, the 'easy button' instructions are to insert the CD and follow the on screen guide. I'm sure you can do it manually from the printer's menus (that's how I set up all of the ones in my office at least), but without being able to look at it I'm not sure what the step-by step would be.
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Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 29,085
Total Cats: 375
From: Republic of Dallas
Can we talk about work for a minute, I need to vent.
1. Someone is so bored they decided to bring gun sniffing dogs to the office and make sure everyone is not concealing a gun in their car. I don't bring mine, but I still think this is a huge waste of time. Of course I was called out and they went through my car because its full of gun powder residue from things like trips to and from the range, shooting shotguns near the car, and whatever else.
2. I have a $2300 balance on my office credit card, and none of the lazy ---- people in finance can help me because its no one's job to do anything other than enter numbers into spreadsheets and ---- you for asking. The great part about this card is the special website that will not show a ledger or balance until the statement due-date. We can't carry a balance so we have to pay the balance prior to seeing the statement. I'm pretty ------- pissed but its no one's problem but my own. I can't get any of that money back until I carry a zero balance for 90-days after a zero activity statement period. That means 90 days after 30 days of no activity, after a 30 day statement closure period. So bascially, I can get my money 6-months after I'm fired.
3. You know all that ---- about GSA spending tons and tons of money on bullshit vacations for a total of $4M? The backlash is that every federal agency now has a dozen people spending 2-4 weeks looking at every time anyone ever travel, and retroactively justified it. I bet that will cost more than $4M in labor.
1. Someone is so bored they decided to bring gun sniffing dogs to the office and make sure everyone is not concealing a gun in their car. I don't bring mine, but I still think this is a huge waste of time. Of course I was called out and they went through my car because its full of gun powder residue from things like trips to and from the range, shooting shotguns near the car, and whatever else.
2. I have a $2300 balance on my office credit card, and none of the lazy ---- people in finance can help me because its no one's job to do anything other than enter numbers into spreadsheets and ---- you for asking. The great part about this card is the special website that will not show a ledger or balance until the statement due-date. We can't carry a balance so we have to pay the balance prior to seeing the statement. I'm pretty ------- pissed but its no one's problem but my own. I can't get any of that money back until I carry a zero balance for 90-days after a zero activity statement period. That means 90 days after 30 days of no activity, after a 30 day statement closure period. So bascially, I can get my money 6-months after I'm fired.
3. You know all that ---- about GSA spending tons and tons of money on bullshit vacations for a total of $4M? The backlash is that every federal agency now has a dozen people spending 2-4 weeks looking at every time anyone ever travel, and retroactively justified it. I bet that will cost more than $4M in labor.
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http://www.extremetech.com/computing...um-air-battery
Wow. Those batteries have a similar energy-to-weight ratio as Gasoline.
That's Kind Of a Big Advance.
Wow. Those batteries have a similar energy-to-weight ratio as Gasoline.
That's Kind Of a Big Advance.
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Connect the printer via USB, set up wifi connection in printer settings, unplug USB, win.
http://support.dell.com/support/edoc...n/ug/en_ug.pdf
http://support.dell.com/support/edoc...n/ug/en_ug.pdf
http://support.dell.com/support/edoc...n/ug/en_ug.pdf
Starts at page 81. RTFM
For serious though, the 'easy button' instructions are to insert the CD and follow the on screen guide. I'm sure you can do it manually from the printer's menus (that's how I set up all of the ones in my office at least), but without being able to look at it I'm not sure what the step-by step would be.
Starts at page 81. RTFM
For serious though, the 'easy button' instructions are to insert the CD and follow the on screen guide. I'm sure you can do it manually from the printer's menus (that's how I set up all of the ones in my office at least), but without being able to look at it I'm not sure what the step-by step would be.
I got it on the network, but there's an issue with the communication. I'll keep fooling around with the settings until it works. I'm guessing its something stupid.
This will save me a considerable amount of time when I'm typing up proposals.
Thanks again for the quick help. I ------- love this forum! lol
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Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 34,402
Total Cats: 7,523
From: Chicago. (The less-murder part.)
I'm planning on 30A at 52v.
I am somewhat power-limited by the motor itself. Getting heat out of these hubmotors is a bit of a challenge, more so with the internally-geared unit that I've selected for the new build, wherein the stator assembly is a bit more insulated from the outside than with the old direct-drive unit.
One thing that the folks on ES have been experimenting with is the use of ATF or other light oil as an internal cooling medium. Essentially you just seal up the motor as best you can, and fill it with oil, which both lubricates the internals and, more importantly, pulls heat away from the stator and transfers it to the case.
I'm not really clear on whether the shaft bearings are sealed per se, and the shaft itself obviously has some holes in it to allow the wiring to pass through. We shall see.
I'm also installing a temperature sensor inside the motor, and I've elected to use a CycleAnalyst computer for this build instead of discrete volt and ammeters, so it'll be possible to configure the controller with a current-limiter based on temperature.
Picking up the new frame today.
I am somewhat power-limited by the motor itself. Getting heat out of these hubmotors is a bit of a challenge, more so with the internally-geared unit that I've selected for the new build, wherein the stator assembly is a bit more insulated from the outside than with the old direct-drive unit.
One thing that the folks on ES have been experimenting with is the use of ATF or other light oil as an internal cooling medium. Essentially you just seal up the motor as best you can, and fill it with oil, which both lubricates the internals and, more importantly, pulls heat away from the stator and transfers it to the case.
I'm not really clear on whether the shaft bearings are sealed per se, and the shaft itself obviously has some holes in it to allow the wiring to pass through. We shall see.
I'm also installing a temperature sensor inside the motor, and I've elected to use a CycleAnalyst computer for this build instead of discrete volt and ammeters, so it'll be possible to configure the controller with a current-limiter based on temperature.
Picking up the new frame today.
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Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 19,338
Total Cats: 574
From: Fake Virginia
I'm planning on 30A at 52v.
I am somewhat power-limited by the motor itself. Getting heat out of these hubmotors is a bit of a challenge, more so with the internally-geared unit that I've selected for the new build, wherein the stator assembly is a bit more insulated from the outside than with the old direct-drive unit.
One thing that the folks on ES have been experimenting with is the use of ATF or other light oil as an internal cooling medium. Essentially you just seal up the motor as best you can, and fill it with oil, which both lubricates the internals and, more importantly, pulls heat away from the stator and transfers it to the case.
I'm not really clear on whether the shaft bearings are sealed per se, and the shaft itself obviously has some holes in it to allow the wiring to pass through. We shall see.
I'm also installing a temperature sensor inside the motor, and I've elected to use a CycleAnalyst computer for this build instead of discrete volt and ammeters, so it'll be possible to configure the controller with a current-limiter based on temperature.
Picking up the new frame today.
I am somewhat power-limited by the motor itself. Getting heat out of these hubmotors is a bit of a challenge, more so with the internally-geared unit that I've selected for the new build, wherein the stator assembly is a bit more insulated from the outside than with the old direct-drive unit.
One thing that the folks on ES have been experimenting with is the use of ATF or other light oil as an internal cooling medium. Essentially you just seal up the motor as best you can, and fill it with oil, which both lubricates the internals and, more importantly, pulls heat away from the stator and transfers it to the case.
I'm not really clear on whether the shaft bearings are sealed per se, and the shaft itself obviously has some holes in it to allow the wiring to pass through. We shall see.
I'm also installing a temperature sensor inside the motor, and I've elected to use a CycleAnalyst computer for this build instead of discrete volt and ammeters, so it'll be possible to configure the controller with a current-limiter based on temperature.
Picking up the new frame today.
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Well, the printer is on the network but for some reason my computer keeps popping up with "communication errors" when I try to print.
I'm guessing at this point I should just remove the printer completely and reinstall it from scratch?
I have absolutely NO PATIENCE when computers act like a ----.
One is only as good as his weakest link. I'm knocking these estimates out left and right, but losing hours trying to connect a god damn printer to my network. lol
If all else fails, I'll just smash it.
I'm guessing at this point I should just remove the printer completely and reinstall it from scratch?
I have absolutely NO PATIENCE when computers act like a ----.
One is only as good as his weakest link. I'm knocking these estimates out left and right, but losing hours trying to connect a god damn printer to my network. lol
If all else fails, I'll just smash it.
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Is there a computer in the room with the printer? You could just hook it up via USB to that computer, and then share it on the network. I've found that works better sometimes when the onboard wifi is glitchy.
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