Lemme see dat MSQ, son.

 

Cant tell if he's talking about me or Techsalvager.

 

Neither.

And it's all the Federal Reserve's fault.

 

I'm pretty sure this isn't software. After that drive, I reverted the tune back to my previous save point, and no change at all. Visually inspected the VE table, and it looks fine to me.

And this change was sudden, like someone threw a switch while I was driving. One moment it's all happiness and kittens, and the next, *BAM*- no torque.

Here's a datalog showing when the event happened:



At point A, I'm idling at a light at the bottom of the hill. Idle is rock-steady at ~940 RPM, MAP is steady at 29-30 kPa, AFR is normal (AEM miscalibration, 15.3 = 14.7), spark is steady at ~14° BTDC, fuel PW is steady at ~ 2.7, PWM idle duty is steady at ~ 31.

Then the light turns green and I run through first, second and third, and come to a traffic signal at point B. I *think* that's when it happened (during the space between point A and B), however I hadn't quite come to stop, so I didn't notice anything wrong. Ran through the gears again and came to a full stop at point C.


At point C, everything is wrong. MAP is 60, RPM is unsteady and a tad low, IdleDC is WAY up at 45, fuel is way up at 4.8 and yet AFR is still right where it ought to be. And when I tried to take off again, I almost stalled the engine. Had to slip the clutch to keep it above 2,000 RPM.

Drove it again this morning, and it's exactly the same. No mechanical noises, no smoke, good oil pressure, and above 2,000 RPM it runs just fine.

The VE table:

 

TB jump tooth?

 

Based purely on the map at point B, I think you are correct in assuming that things went south between A and B. Other than that, I have no idea what may be your issue.

 

That's what I'm assuming.

I know the intake cam is fine, as I verified the ignition timing last night (I'm still using the stock CAS on this engine.) Could well be that the exhaust cam skipped a tooth or two and is now retarded relative to the crank, which from what I understand would cause this exact symptom. Probably won't have time to pull the cover and check it until this weekend.

On the plus side, I already have a full timing belt kit (including water pump, crank bolt and woodruff key) lying on the shelf. Anybody know the correct torque for the main crankbolt on a shortnose engine? The earliest FSM I have is '92.

 

Do want.

7mgte 1984 celica supra

 

I find it very funny that on a miata forum Joe decides to post his miata problems in the Ramble On thread, not make a new thread in the correct section of the forum describing his problem.

 

In 1990, the correct torque is 80 - 87 foot pounds. For 1992 and later, the larger crankshaft uses 116 - 123 foot pounds.¹


¹ Miata Crankshafts

 

I described the problem in the form of a bohemian freestyle poem. How does that not fit into the Ramble On thread?

 

Finger snaps.

 

 

Also want this, even though it's not an All-Trac.

1990 Toyota Celica Turbo 3sgte

 

With the valve cover doffed
And a few beers quaffed

Joe Perez will try to discover
the woes of his red miata lover

He'll tug on her bolts
and measure her volts

And compress her valve springs
until her pipe sings

Wearing his homage to Hawai'i
while he's aligning her I and E

The belts will be tight
The shafts will be right

With a spark in his eye and her high tension lead
Joe'll eventually get her back up to speed.

 

This thread couldn't even be more complete with cheerleaders and ice cream.

 

 

you can haz. with jimmies.
(unrustled)



VIP-5!

 

bonus of brain getting his cheerlead* on.



*ice cream not shown.

 

that's a cowlick, not a bald spot.