even if it is threaded, you'll have a drill press. Drill out the next smaller hole with a drill bit who's diameter is a hair larger that then what your calipers read when you measure the O.D. of your bolt. Voila. It's no mill or lathe, but my drill press has impressed me with all the stuff I do with it. A larger one is ideal, as you can bolt a hf $50 "cross slide vise" to the table and do lots of stuff easily. I did this with a table top unit, but you're limited in height, and I run into the stand once in a while with longer stuff.
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Sorry to hear about your luck dude, that does suck. Two thumbs up on the V band though! Did you loctite them? Blue/red?
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Originally Posted by thymer
(Post 466546)
Sorry to hear about your luck dude, that does suck. Two thumbs up on the V band though! Did you loctite them? Blue/red?
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dude, just go V8 and forget about all the problems with hardware failing! seriously - you get a lot of torque, a lot of hp, and no problems with turbo hardware failures. instaspool too!
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Originally Posted by UrbanSoot
(Post 466551)
dude, just go V8 and forget about all the problems with hardware failing! seriously - you get a lot of torque, a lot of hp, and no problems with turbo hardware failures. instaspool too!
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How many sessions did you get in? Did it happen on the track?
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Originally Posted by hustler
(Post 466548)
You're trolling, right?
Nope, why? Too hot for the hotside? |
Originally Posted by Bond
(Post 466558)
How many sessions did you get in? Did it happen on the track?
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Originally Posted by hustler
(Post 466537)
It looks like it's NOT threaded...is this right? I need to use metric sized shit on this.
SAFETY WIRE BLOCK / JIG - METRIC - RACING, MOTOCROSS:eBay Motors (item 120389445260 end time Nov-04-09 05:17:23 PST) Additional safety wire advice... buy the best drill bits you can get (and get them 5-10 at a time), HF/HD stuff won't cut it, particularly for socket head bolts. We buy most of our drill bits/end mills from KBCtools, the cobalt high speed steel (HSS) bits are what you're looking for. When you wire something, fold the end over, you will VERY rarely cut yourself on the ends if you're religious about it. In the example of the header bolts above the wire isn't folded over far enough and WILL eventually catch someones finger... safety wire cuts hurt like hell. Get good safety wire pliers, I have an SK pair that are reversible and they're absolutely great. I bought them off of EBay for $80 and worth every penny (btw Snap-On sell the EXACT same pair for over double what I paid... they're even marked the same). Here's another EBay link... exact pliers I have SK Tool 6" Safety Wire Twisting Plier Auto Return S-K - eBay (item 120407050802 end time Oct-12-09 15:55:48 PDT) |
Thank you for the advice on the wiring. I have what you'd probably consider the "budget" SK pliars. I'm dealling with little 10mm bolt heads, what size wire should I use?
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I think you are an idiot for not doing this from the get go considering the same thing happened to Sav.
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Originally Posted by neogenesis2004
(Post 466582)
I think you are an idiot for not doing this from the get go considering the same thing happened to Sav.
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You first fucktard. You deserve insult to be added.
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I wouldn't expect any chemical locker to withstand the temperatures of a turbo hotside. I say buy a used drill press or a cheapo one from harborfreight to make this happen. Or use the drill you already have and the jig or a vise and go to town.
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Originally Posted by hustler
(Post 466599)
We thought resbond would work...
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Karma backed them out.
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His karma ran over his dogma...
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Originally Posted by ZX-Tex
(Post 466621)
So you resbonded the turbine housing bolts and they still backed out?!
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yes, I yanked the turbo after the first install and put res bond in prior to running at hallett. Mechanical fasteners are the way.
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Originally Posted by hustler
(Post 466693)
yes, I put res bond in prior to running at hallett.
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