I don't know that I can drill a hole big enough for .032 in the little 10mm head.

edit: Just called and switched to the .032. Thanks for the advice.


so safety wire experts, do you recommend lacing these or the standard twist? I think twisting pairs, on different flanges is the way to go because I creates fail safes on each flange which holds the chra to the housing.

I'm also going to do my fluid drain plugs too. This will help me sleep at night.

unfortunately mcmaster.com only sells down to 1/4-20 in stainless with drilled heads.

can you find your bolts with tall heads or use cap screws with longer heads?

Oil restrictor discussion:
I had BEGi make a .060, should I go smaller? I am worried that .040 is going to be too little oil for the turbo.

there is so little clearance that I'm going to run the funky metal bolts tial sends.

http://i33.tinypic.com/1hp6qa.jpg
I wonder what made the top side of the diaphram dirty? It was clean on the inside. I wonder if its sucking in oil vapor from my atmospheric cam vent?

.060? Is that even a restrictor? lol

I would have recommended .040", but if you're not blowing oil past the seals dont worry about it. If it ain't broke, don't fix it.

WTF is cam vent?

valve cover/cam cover, same thing...lol.

If by lacing, are you talking about how they cross the wire inside the bolt head like on figure 1-5? The only times I've seen it laced (ala 1-5) is when the middle section is open and even then I think it's only called for b/c you can do it like that with the middle section open.

Translation: it's probably overkill to lace it and it's a pain in the ass the get it just right.

A nice picture with diagrams of you are gonna safety wire would help for critiquing.

Chris

should I do this:
http://www.oldbritts.com/image/52_130202b.jpg
or tie them in two's like this:
http://speracing.com/images/Safety_Wire2.jpg

My vote...

#2.

Chris

In aircraft maintenance we do it with the twists like the lower picture, definately seems like the stronger way.

OK so you got a jig to do it yourself...great. Do you still want another set? Are you going to do Nicks too?

I was going to mention that uglyass oil drain block but I figured it works so leave it alone, but if it hurts clearance...it's ugly.

And holy shitznit that EWG is getting hot! It shouldn't be that orange (this was anodized black initially people).

I roll with this .035" ATP restrictor.
-4 size Oil inlet fitting for GT28/30/35R with built-in restrictor : atpturbo.com

http://www.atpturbo.com/mm5/graphics...nlet035-01.jpg

We do it like that building race cars too. I'd also mention that you can do the entire series not just two at a time using the #2 method.

See here for more diagrams... they only show up to three bolts but you can do as many as you want in a string, just be careful to always have the bolt being pulled in the tighten direction.

Safety wire, proper safety wire technique for using safety wire on ultralights, and ultralight aircraft.

So wtf do i do about the wastegate? Is this bad? lol, seriously, what should I do?
http://i35.tinypic.com/pm2pg.jpg
Its even lighter now, lol. The blow off and WG were the same color at one time, lol.

The oil restrictor is drama because BEGi does not use AN thread pitch, its something else. Are you sure that .035 is not too small for tracking?

I don't know what you should do about it. Lower your EGT's? Go with an LS1? See if it breaks?

apparently this is normal, lol.

You want that restrictor, over oiling a bb turbo will kill it. It has much tighter clearances, and does not use oil flow to cool the center section as much as the water does. This is somewhat in converse to a journal turbo where it needs higher flow to maintain an oil film and oil is used to cool everything.

Are you sure? I talked this over with both BEGI and ATP Turbo and they both think a restrictor was not needed on my GT2871 (ball bearing).

It's your turbo, do what you want. I don't type shit just to exercise my fingers.