Ha! I thought I was the only one that worked on cars in flip flops.

APR has a header bolt kit with metal clips to keep then from backing out. Mabe they have some smaller. I wouldn't like having to wire everything.

What does the manufacturer say????

yes, you shall.

.032 is kind of the primary size I use at work... occasionally .020 or .041 get used but those are generally either very tiny bolts or ring gear bolts (.020) on Can Am cars putting out 700+lbs of torque (.041)

For your usage just go with the .032... a 1lb spool ought to last a long time.

You may want to consider something other than SS for the hotside safety wire ie MS20995NC32 Monel Safety Wire (.032 Diameter), ASTM B164* The largest selection of Aircraft parts and Pilot Supplies.- SkyGeek.com or better yet, inconel http://www.skygeek.com/ms20995n32.html

Utter BS.

More like TiAL housing fail, because this is the 2nd time I've seen this on a TiAL housing. Never before on a Garrett one. Mine has been on and off two times.

Why is SS insufficient?

?

Maybe TiAL housing tolerances are just different?

Can't handle the heat. It will get brittle and break in time. the inconel is much more resistant to heat.

Sorry, why is SS safety wire insufficient?

I asked the TiAL guy a few questions about this crap and I'll post his response here.

One last question about the resbond. Did you clean the threads on the bolts and the female threads on the housing before assembly, with a no-residue solvent, like brake cleaner?

In Hustler terms, did you wash your Johnson, and did she douche, before you did the nasty?

I did at the time. Clean like a baby.

i guess garrett has a top secret loctite like material that pwnz rezbond

Me thinks TiAL has different thread tolerances or reusing the bolts in new threads is a free ticket to fail boat paradise.

+1

I talked to the Tial guy and he said he only knew of this happening once before on one of their F2 racecars and they used some crazy-expensive bolts that stopped it. He suggested safety wire. I'm not really thrilled that they chose to not share this with me from the start. How hard is it to say "if you're going to race the car, you must safety wire bolts xyz?"

However, they're exchanging the center section for a reasonable price.

When everything is right, the turbo should last years of track time...right? This is about to be too expensive for me.

Jah, and they are omitting Sav's event of the same?!

I'm gonna make little bend over tabbies for Nick out of the same .045" material I use for the reinfocement squares. Should do the same thing as safety wire but simplier, easier, cheaper.

Making one of those safetywire jigs would be easy too, i have some leftover angle iron from my BEGI/FM 3" downpipe jig...tap one side in that metric thread, clamp/bolt to a drill press, get good bits, go to town. But i'll spend my time on the bendy tab things first.

They don't know about his failure.


I blasted brake-cleaner through the surfaced before I applied the thread locker. I'm thinking extreme harmonics. On a lighter note, my manifold still looks perfect.

I was thinking about the whole problem of studs backing out etc and wondering how manufacturers deal with it without vbands. I wonder if manufacturers (like garret) are able to manufacture both studs/fasteners and the housing (turbine housing or manifold) with much higher quality thanks to high-quantity-cost-efficiencies.

Reworded, I wonder if OEM (or near OEM) manufacturers are able to cheaply produce parts with very very high tolerances for cheap since they produce ten billion of em.

Safety wiring everything on the car with b166 inconel now using the ebay jig. Its time to get militant.