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Originally Posted by faeflora
(Post 466869)
I was thinking about the whole problem of studs backing out etc and wondering how manufacturers deal with it without vbands. I wonder if manufacturers (like garret) are able to manufacture both studs/fasteners and the housing (turbine housing or manifold) with much higher quality thanks to high-quantity-cost-efficiencies.
Reworded, I wonder if OEM (or near OEM) manufacturers are able to cheaply produce parts with very very high tolerances for cheap since they produce ten billion of em. The people with these fastener problem are apparently putting hardware through stress that manufactures chose to ignore for obvious reasons. I hope that with the correct oil pressure, safety-wire, and a safe tune I'll be able to track this car for a long time. |
Originally Posted by faeflora
(Post 466869)
I was thinking about the whole problem of studs backing out etc and wondering how manufacturers deal with it without vbands.
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Originally Posted by webby459
(Post 466886)
No OEM is designing for the abuse that is being spoken about here. We are even talking about a higher specific output than most supercars, and a duty cycle on all critical parts higher than most design targets.
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Originally Posted by hustler
(Post 466893)
The track I ran on Saturday has a 3x apex where I have an 11-second period of sustained 1.25-1.4g loading. lol
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Hmmm.....i'll stck with Garrett. That sucks for you man....
Do you stll have the GT2871? |
Originally Posted by hustler
(Post 466875)
Safety wiring everything on the car with b166 inconel now using the ebay jig. Its time to get militant.
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Originally Posted by thymer
(Post 466896)
Which jig did you get? I'm thinking of doing the same thing since I have the turbo off anyway to replace the head. You can do it without the jig on a drill press but I'm thinking the jig will speed things up.
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Originally Posted by webby459
(Post 466894)
...and that's before you put some big R6s on those new 9's that you have, right?
Originally Posted by Toddcod
(Post 466895)
Hmmm.....i'll stck with Garrett. That sucks for you man....
Do you stll have the GT2871? |
Originally Posted by hustler
(Post 466901)
I bought that red one from ebay.
Was looking at this for the nuts MOTORCYCLE TOOL SAFETY WIRE TWIST LOCK Nut Drill Jig:eBay Motors (item 370143850607 end time Nov-08-09 11:12:26 PST) |
TiAL MV-S guts:
http://i33.tinypic.com/1hp6qa.jpg |
Originally Posted by thymer
(Post 466903)
You know that wont work for nuts but it will be great for the bolts.
Was looking at this for the nuts MOTORCYCLE TOOL SAFETY WIRE TWIST LOCK Nut Drill Jig:eBay Motors (item 370143850607 end time Nov-08-09 11:12:26 PST) But damn, that one is superior. I screwed up, again. |
Originally Posted by hustler
(Post 466906)
Yes, just needed it for a bolt jig.
But damn, that one is superior. I screwed up, again. |
Originally Posted by thymer
(Post 466920)
actually the one you have is much better/more stable for the bolts.
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Originally Posted by Cspence
(Post 466530)
http://paulcegelski.com/img/lockwire.gif Safety wire - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia Also, I think the .032 SS safety wire would be fine for your application. The inconnel stuff is probably overkill (unless you split the cost with a couple people). Chris EDIT: Also, when drilling holes in the bolts, drill atleast two so that it is easier to pick a hole without having to over/under torque for proper alignment. |
1 Attachment(s)
I remember the bolts for Tial's housing being much smaller than cast housing bolts, what's the reasoning behind that? I'm no engineer, but to me they look too small.
Attachment 203247 Trey, are you buying bolts with bigger heads? The tial supplied bolts won't be fun to drill. Also, you're going to run into a problem with the oil return flange, it was hard enough fitting the tial bolt in there. Get one of these, the begi one is too bulky. http://www.atpturbo.com/Merchant2/gr...t%20flange.jpg |
turbine housings glow from the heat, I'd go inconel. $50 but it will last you forever.
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Originally Posted by ARTech
(Post 466949)
I remember the bolts for Tial's housing being much smaller than cast housing bolts, what's the reasoning behind that? I'm no engineer, but to me they look too small.
http://i21.photobuckes/b256/mo7/_MG_0236.jpg Trey, are you buying bolts with bigger heads? The tial supplied bolts won't be fun to drill. Also, you're going to run into a problem with the oil return flange, it was hard enough fitting the tial bolt in there. Get one of these, the begi one is too bulky. http://www.atpturbo.com/Merchant2/gr...ain%20gt%2.jpg I'm stuck with the tiny bolts, but I bought a jig to drill them for .022 inconel...any reason you can see why this will fail. I have enough clearance to get the wire through and who knows what thread begi used on these fittings. |
Originally Posted by Rennkafer
(Post 466733)
For your usage just go with the .032... a 1lb spool ought to last a long time. |
I don't know enough about safety wire to comment on the size, but I'd trust Rennkafer/Miatamaniac92's advice and go .032". They seem to know what they're talking about.
I just figured a smaller head would be tricky to drill, especially, two holes, but if it can be done, I don't see any problems. |
While it doesn't seem like that large of a difference, the .032 wire has over twice the cross-sectional area...and will carry twice the load.
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