really really bummed about Steve Smith right about now.

 

awesome.

been towing this recently with our baby. just tried it behind our tandem last night...tows pretty well behind the tandem but its sooo long that you have to turn like your towing a long car trailer. swing wide or you would clip a curb.
the new tandem will be set up much better for this though. the purple tandem has hooded dropouts and the Thule adapter sits a bit too tight in it to get the hitch to work without removing the wheel. thule sells a spacer kit for hooded dropouts but since I have the new one under way I will deal with it as is for the time being or make a spacer myself.

 

My dad flipped one of those with me in it when I was a kid lol. The seat belts may seem silly but I was strapped in and didn't touch the ground.

 

Buy from me:

with 46/36 or maybe Praxis rangs, 172.5

DT370 w/ WTB i19 Assym (15/12 through-axle)
Will provide reach-around for each purchase.

 

That would be awesome for training. Mine would be full of cats.

 

I'm not sure how I should feel about this, but I support it. Man, that's proper, mom rode around with me like this when I was young.

 

who is confident is his manhood, to wear this in public

 

This. Rode and had beers with a couple of times. He had been a role model for me/my riding for many years. Really shook me up to see him pass.

 

The TT bike is more embarrassing than the glans helmet. lol However, you are in properly matching kit so you solidify your place among cycling-fashion elite and and idiom of coolness I've never seen at the amateur level.

I wonder if a day will ever come where I need a TT bike? That would be cool.

 

How much of a waste of cash is it to buy a power meter for my CX bike to train on all summer while I have a road bike with a meter?

 

Never mind, I missed the deal, going to buy another set of CX wheels now, lol.

 

I like. Serious question though: why no rear disc cover (crosswind?), and how many watts is your beard?

Anyone have experiences with the Powertap rear hub? I am considering building my own carbon wheelset and, at $599 now, the powertap hub gets cheap once you also factor in the cost of a rear hub i would need anyway.

J-bend spokes or straight pull? Jbend is overall cheaper, minimal weight penalty if anything. straight pull looks cool.

 

Randomness from the train on Saturday:




Lots of click-click noises as people walked down theaisle...

 

Didn't have time to get the disc cover on. I laced my old SL pro PT hub into a 60mm carbon clincher with CX rays and gave it to my engineer for xmas. Hefty but solid. He doesn't switch wheels around like I do so it's perfect for him. I still have a Zipp 404 Firecrest clincher laced to a G3 PT hub with CX-Rays but I never use it anymore. Switched to Powertap P1 pedals.

Hardtail MTB, CX and full suspension MTB all have Stages left side meters. CX bikes shuffles between four different wheelsets. I need a lightweight pedal based meter for the dirt.

I try to use straight pull whenever possible. Never pulled a head off but I have broken J bends near the flange. J bend is a marginally lighter hub, straight pull builds a stronger wheel. OEM wheels on my Cannondale FSi Carbon (hardtail XC) are Mavic Cross Max SL. Building a set with straight pull hubs, CX Rays and 360g China carbon clinchers. Should shave about 250g over the Mavics.

 

I built and rode a FLO30 hoop on a PT SL+ hub for ~2600 miles. Zero issues, highly recommended if you don't swap wheels.

Jbend is easier to build with if it's your first time.

 

I'll trade you my set of 15x9 tungsten 6UL's NIB. They are the best miata wheels, you would love them.

I'm leaning towards the CX Rays too, mostly because that's all I read about when I search. Still choosing the rim itself. Kinda worried about chinese quality, but if you have a recommendation of a chinese rim source I'm all ears please. I was leaning towards Taiwanese.

I'm also leaning towards tubular for inertia reasons. I'm 149lb and not powerful. I've never had a flat in my 1530 miles of poorly maintained roads, and a few big HOLY F*CK where did that come from potholes. I'd rather have clinchers because that's what I'm used to and I have inventory of nice specialized clincher tires, but should I man up and do tubular? 3xmm or 5xmm rim height? For ref, my fulcrum S5's are the older version and around 18xx grams. If I could get in the 1200's, I'd be giddy. Not sure I could do that affordably with clinchers.

that's what I hear too. it will be my first time.

 

I'm not a superstitious man, but if you haven't had a flat in 1500 miles, I'm certain that the first training ride on tubulars will result in one

 

New race bike. 2015 Cannondale FSi Carbon. XTR/TX 10S model was heavily discounted so I snapped it up.
Candy 11 pedals, King SS cage. Otherwise stock. Wheelset is tubeless ready but ships so did the conversion before I weighed it.
I have the bits to convert it to XTR 1x11 with 180mm XTR cranks. 21.5 lbs as pictured. It'll drop about .7lbs with the lighter cassette, FD delete and single ring. So that should put it a shaded under 21 lbs.
Last hardtail I owned was a 1999 Schwinn Homegrown Team with 9S XTR 3x and V brakes. This thing is just leagues beyond. Shock absorption is uncanny, accelerates better than my cross bike, sharpest, best handling XC bike I have ever ridden.
Really anxious to race it.

 

Love the lefty forks. They just crack me up everytime I see one. Almost bought an old one a few years ago.

 

SRAM road hydro disc bleeding is a pain in the ***.

That is all.