18 psi with no FMIC. I smell another RatFuck
09-10-2007, 07:43 PM
#21
the fans essentially work the same. MS turns on the driver's side fan at a set CLT and the passenger's side fan with the ac. The only difference is you can control what temp the driver's fan comes on at, and at its default setting it comes on noticably earlier (175F?).
One of the mods on my to do list is to wire in the oem thermoswitch to the passenger side fan so it would come on either with the ac or at the oem fan trip temp (210F?). Basically that would give me a 2 stage fan system.
One of the mods on my to do list is to wire in the oem thermoswitch to the passenger side fan so it would come on either with the ac or at the oem fan trip temp (210F?). Basically that would give me a 2 stage fan system.
Reply
0
0
09-10-2007, 08:22 PM
#22
Boost Czar
iTrader: (62)
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Chantilly, VA
Posts: 79,493
Total Cats: 4,080
the temp of you thermostat doesn't dictate the temp of your water. the car should be happy running at 190-200° the fans kick on at 207°.
It's wrong and your being half-assed about it. the end. come on richard! where do you have room to talk down to all the noobs...you need to pull a resistor from the MB or reflash the firmware with the correct bias settings for the CLT sensor. The AIT sensor just proves you are lazy. Both and AIT and CLT sensors are higly important on how the MS fuels your ride.
It's wrong and your being half-assed about it. the end. come on richard! where do you have room to talk down to all the noobs...you need to pull a resistor from the MB or reflash the firmware with the correct bias settings for the CLT sensor. The AIT sensor just proves you are lazy. Both and AIT and CLT sensors are higly important on how the MS fuels your ride.
Reply
0
0
09-10-2007, 08:31 PM
#23
Supporting Vendor
iTrader: (33)
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: atlanta-ish
Posts: 12,659
Total Cats: 134
to qoute ben on Fan control My tstat is the lowest temperature one i could find and the ambient temps where overcast humid and in the mid 80's i see no problem with running 170 F if the value is correct if it is not correct i am gonna be pissed and go out and buy a oil cooler and a big ole koyo cause i dont like **** getting that hot period. And Y8s most interiors in the sun get around 120-130 max the plastic would start deforming if the temps got much higher.
brainy is speakin' the truth man. you needs to fix yo ****. the car was designed to run 200F
I cruise at 203-206 or so.
Reply
0
0
09-11-2007, 04:25 AM
#26
Elite Member
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Warrington/Birmingham
Posts: 2,642
Total Cats: 42
and to think of the pasting I got on here for my home make knock sensor mount......at least I have properly located sensors, and the wiring tidied away...
Seriously Magna, spend a weekend tidying that **** up!
Seriously Magna, spend a weekend tidying that **** up!
Reply
0
0
09-11-2007, 04:29 AM
#27
Elite Member
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Warrington/Birmingham
Posts: 2,642
Total Cats: 42
and running lower than that is BAD for the engine, especially when you're 'pressing on'
what's 170F? 76Deg?? for reference the LINK ECU will NOT datalog until the coolant temps reach 80degrees....
Reply
0
0
09-11-2007, 11:14 AM
#30
Elite Member
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Warrington/Birmingham
Posts: 2,642
Total Cats: 42
you'll be pleased to know my DIY mount has now gone...... the proper mount seems to perform exactly the same unfortunately i.e. I get a boatload of false knock :(
Reply
0
0
09-11-2007, 11:51 AM
#32
Elite Member
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Warrington/Birmingham
Posts: 2,642
Total Cats: 42
I've twiddled about with the adjustment **** till I'm blue in the face, but no dice for me unfortunately. If i put a bit of cheap fuel in to induce knock, I can set the sensor to pick it up and kill it, but once I get over 3.5/4k the LED lights permanently. Obviously I can tell MS to ignore this false knock, but that isn't a solution at all IMO.
If i adjust the unit to not ignice from the engine noise, it then doesn't pick up any knock whatsoever.
Maybe I have a particularly noisy engine - the charger definately adds to the noise - but for me unfortunately the unit doesn't perform as I'd hoped :(
Reply
0
0
09-11-2007, 02:03 PM
#34
I sent him an email and he said he's seen that sensor and that it should work fine. The connector won't work but i'll figure that part of it out. Reverant built his own circuit as listed in the MSE manual and uses the same stock sensor. Don't see why it wouldn't work. Guess i'll try it. My solid lifters are pretty quite and I don't have any other rattles so maybe i'll have better luck with a turbo system.
Reply
0
0
09-12-2007, 04:07 AM
#35
Elite Member
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Warrington/Birmingham
Posts: 2,642
Total Cats: 42
I sent him an email and he said he's seen that sensor and that it should work fine. The connector won't work but i'll figure that part of it out. Reverant built his own circuit as listed in the MSE manual and uses the same stock sensor. Don't see why it wouldn't work. Guess i'll try it. My solid lifters are pretty quite and I don't have any other rattles so maybe i'll have better luck with a turbo system.
I'll keep my fingers crossed for you, At some point I need to remove my charger and dump rattling heatshieds etc, hopefully that will improve the situation somewhat
Reply
0
0
I'm very curious.
