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Old 10-07-2009, 01:46 AM   #41
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So I just got home from work, and I tucked my adapter and all the wires / vacuum lines up and away, and zip tied everything. I took the 2 phillips head screws out of the bottom of the plastic cover that goes from the steering column to near my shins. I jammed the MS up in there and ran the DB9 tuning cable towards the passengers side and snuck the cable between the plastic near the console and the carpet. The tuning cable comes out right next to my seat belt latch, so I can drape it across behind my shifter while driving, and have the laptop on my passengers seat. I screwed the plastic panel back in, and it looks like nothing was messed with. I then turned the key and the car fired right off. It idled a little low, like 500RPM. The LC-1 gauge came on after about 30 seconds and then the car sat there and idled normal, but rich (like 11:1). So now since I have nothing dangling at my feet, tomorrow I am gonna take it for a drive and do a few datalogs. Updates will continue on this thread.
Marc, how does that .msq work for you with warm starting?
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Old 10-07-2009, 05:21 AM   #42
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Sweet. Open the idle valve just a bit to get higher idle.

So, what did you end up using for an adapterboard case?
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Old 10-07-2009, 01:21 PM   #43
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I used the context engineering 3008 case, bought from frys.com. Check it out here:
https://www.miataturbo.net/forum/t39...=adapter+board
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Old 10-07-2009, 02:36 PM   #44
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Update:
I drove the car a few minutes ago, about a 5 mile cruise. I datalogged, but for some reason it only logged from start up, and then Tunerstudio froze while I was driving. Oh well. I drove the car and it ran great. I was gentle and the most boost I hit was 5psi. I was cruising for about 2 miles and I felt a little jump, like the MS reset or something. Other than that it ran great. Just need some tuning. Oh yeah, I had a vacuum leak at my MAP sensor, I heard it after start-up, but it only changed the inHg by 2 (19inHg idle instead of 21) so I left it go just to take it for a little drive; I fixed it when I got home. I have a little cleaning up to do yet as far as my PNP and MS underdash mounting, but weather permitting, I will be driving it to work tomorrow or friday night. Work is a 27 mile drive 1 way, so that should be a nice datalog. More updates to follow!
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Old 10-07-2009, 05:00 PM   #45
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That jump you felt...

I think it could be related to my "loss of sync" problems..


Do you have the datalog of that session? Find the place where that "jump" you felt and tell me if you see any loss of sync codes.
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Old 10-07-2009, 08:40 PM   #46
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Yeah, I get those, and, I never get any hits on my lost sync counter. Which weirds me out, since I'm pretty sure that's what they are. My old circuit would give me hiccups (before they counted loss of sync) all the time, many many per drive. Now, with the op-amp circuit, I'll get 1 every five minutes. I've yet to figure out if it's the stereo since it draws massive current. The drop outs I get are recent (last 6-8 months) so I can't rule out a code change since I didn't get them before.

Also, if you're getting them always at 5250 RPM, it could be the VICS being noisy (shouldn't be, there's a diode) or maybe the cooling fans turning on. Look at the logs where you get this event and look for ANYTHING which switches then - i.e. check all the output port states. It's a long shot, but that wasted lots of my time before.
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Old 10-07-2009, 09:14 PM   #47
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maybe its time we start playing with the "Noise filter" feature? ha
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Old 10-08-2009, 01:26 AM   #48
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I did a final mounting (ziptie-ing) of my PNP board and MS, and I also did some comparing of Marc's spark table and AFR target table. I must say, that spark table isn't too far off of what my MS-1 parallel was using, so I'm not going to mess with it. The AFR targets on the other hand...dude this is some clean stuff. I love it. Tomorrow I'm going to take it out and use Megatune this time and do a few datalogs. I have no idea why tuner studio froze, so I'll see if MT does it too. If not, there will be logs uploaded by noon tomorrow (9AM your guys time). Oh yeah. More compliments...NO POP ON IGNITION TURN ON! The driveability is soooo smooth, it feels like I have the stock computer hooked up. The transition into boost is flawless like it should be. I remember the voo-doo box days where you felt it kick in. Not like this, it's nothing more than a smooth rev. This is so awesome!
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Old 10-08-2009, 01:46 AM   #49
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Heh. Awesome. I forget how smooth this thing is. Glad to hear it.

It's really only five minutes to flash the new firmware on, I might try coming up to speed with what you guys are running. MSM cams and a different turbo, but its a place to start, just to see where I am.
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Old 10-08-2009, 02:26 AM   #50
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Originally Posted by thirdgen View Post
I did a final mounting (ziptie-ing) of my PNP board and MS, and I also did some comparing of Marc's spark table and AFR target table. I must say, that spark table isn't too far off of what my MS-1 parallel was using, so I'm not going to mess with it. The AFR targets on the other hand...dude this is some clean stuff. I love it. Tomorrow I'm going to take it out and use Megatune this time and do a few datalogs. I have no idea why tuner studio froze, so I'll see if MT does it too. If not, there will be logs uploaded by noon tomorrow (9AM your guys time). Oh yeah. More compliments...NO POP ON IGNITION TURN ON! The driveability is soooo smooth, it feels like I have the stock computer hooked up. The transition into boost is flawless like it should be. I remember the voo-doo box days where you felt it kick in. Not like this, it's nothing more than a smooth rev. This is so awesome!
You bet i took my time to figure out the best ones :P

Im glad its running great. Let me know if you have any "loss of sync" issues, I think we are getting to the nit and gritty on it.
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Old 10-08-2009, 02:28 AM   #51
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Best ones? AFRs? I'm sure I'm too lean.
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Old 10-08-2009, 03:08 AM   #52
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Best ones? AFRs? I'm sure I'm too lean.
Ha, I sometimes try to shoot for 17.7 AFR on cruise so i can be extra thrifty with gas ^_^
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Old 10-08-2009, 01:11 PM   #53
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Default Datalogged and slightly beaten on...

So I went in the garage, plugged the laptop in and opened megatune. I started the car and immediately started a datalog (after the car was started for about 3 seconds). I left the car warm up a bit while I changed my gauges around in MT, and then I took it out. There is a gas station down the street from me, maybe about 2.2 miles? I drove it there, turned around and came back. I went through a few driving habits...cruise, mild boost. Coming home I hit 7psi and it ran pretty rich. For some reason, my AFR's in MT read 12.1 almost the whole time, but on my gauge it reads fine. It did the same thing with Tuner Studio. I have my LC-1 configured properly, so I don't know what the deal is. On the way there it did that "jump" again, but after that small 1 second flaw, it ran great the rest of the ride. I got home, parked the car, and ended the datalog.
What the...I just tried to upload my log 3 different times and it says "error uploading" oh well, you guys get the point. It runs and drives fine, except for that same issue you guys are having with the "loss of sync" possibility. I just gotta figure out why my AFR's are reading so stupid so I can finally VE analyze this thing.
Attached Files
File Type: msq loaded.msq (72.3 KB, 36 views)
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Old 10-08-2009, 01:18 PM   #54
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Originally Posted by thirdgen View Post
So I went in the garage, plugged the laptop in and opened megatune. I started the car and immediately started a datalog (after the car was started for about 3 seconds). I left the car warm up a bit while I changed my gauges around in MT, and then I took it out. There is a gas station down the street from me, maybe about 2.2 miles? I drove it there, turned around and came back. I went through a few driving habits...cruise, mild boost. Coming home I hit 7psi and it ran pretty rich. For some reason, my AFR's in MT read 12.1 almost the whole time, but on my gauge it reads fine. It did the same thing with Tuner Studio. I have my LC-1 configured properly, so I don't know what the deal is. On the way there it did that "jump" again, but after that small 1 second flaw, it ran great the rest of the ride. I got home, parked the car, and ended the datalog.
What the...I just tried to upload my log 3 different times and it says "error uploading" oh well, you guys get the point. It runs and drives fine, except for that same issue you guys are having with the "loss of sync" possibility. I just gotta figure out why my AFR's are reading so stupid so I can finally VE analyze this thing.
Did you calibrate the "AFR" tables in the tools section?

The MSII does its own calculation for the AFRs. This makes it read wrong if you never calibrated it. Go to the tools, Select "Calibrate AFR Tables" then choose LC-1 Lambda. Make sure your car isn't running when you flash this.

Abe, I think you forgot that important step in the MSQ settings. Keep in mind this is needed for MT or TunerStudio to read the AFR's correctly, or else they will never read properly on the computer, and youll be banging your head on the table for days trying to figure out whats wrong

So that jump.

It appears you are having a similar problem to whats happening with my car. Keep on the look out on the various "MSII" threads for info on fixing it. We sorta narrowed it down to the capacitors within the circuit. The datalogs I get when it looses sync occurs on both the cam and crank when cold, but only the crank when its warm on a cruise.
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Old 10-08-2009, 01:52 PM   #55
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I just did that AFR calibration and now it appears to be working just fine. Thanks Marc. I am driving the car to work tonight, I should be able to VE analyze it and get a few datalogs out of it. I'll let you know how it goes, and also if it does that little "jump" again and how many times it happens.
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Old 10-08-2009, 03:51 PM   #56
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Quote:
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Ha, I sometimes try to shoot for 17.7 AFR on cruise so i can be extra thrifty with gas ^_^
Yeah - I richened up a bit from "barely running" and mileage went up, but not much.

I want to get in a steady cruise, and have someone watch duty cycle, modulating throttle to maintain a constant speed, and see what the mileage really is. Or, find a friend with a steady state dyno.

Quote:
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The MSII does its own calculation for the AFRs. This makes it read wrong if you never calibrated it. Go to the tools, Select "Calibrate AFR Tables" then choose LC-1 Lambda. Make sure your car isn't running when you flash this.
Nicely written. Only, how close are they? LC-1 Lambda, I thought there was some minor error with that. I do mine as "linear wideband" and manually type in "0v = 10:1 AFR, 5V = 20:1 AFR"... 0-5V -> 0.5-1.5 lambda is going to lie to you at the edges, at lamba=1 it'll be dead on, but at rich or lean extremes it will be off. (unless your LC-1 is set up for that)
-Abe.
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Old 10-09-2009, 01:07 AM   #57
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log1.xls
loaded.msq
Finally got a log uploaded. This is a quick one, 2 miles of 4 lane highway from a parking lot, then in boost a bit, then back to cruising speed, and that was it. My battery light is still on dimly, but as I drive and the RPM's go up it gets brighter and my headlights get dimmer. I noticed the headlight dimming issue for about 1 year now, not just with MS but even on the stock computer, but I never had the battery light. I also know that if my car sits for a few weeks the battery will be a bit drained.
Question 1: If I disconnect my battery to put in a new one, do I have to recalibrate the LC-1?
Question 2: Do you think my battery might need to be replaced? The car is 10 years old and it's the original battery.
Question 3: When I change the gauges in MT and then close MT and then reopen MT, the gauges don't stay what I changed them to. How do I get them to stay?
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Old 10-09-2009, 01:38 AM   #58
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maybe your alternator is on its way out too?

My battery light stays dimly lit, but it will only go bright *** red when it gets below 12V.

You never had any problems with the sync?

You should try using TunerStudio honestly, and illl keep saying it. ha. It's already at the end of its time.
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Old 10-09-2009, 01:40 AM   #59
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How can you not love this interface?

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Old 10-09-2009, 02:33 PM   #60
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Attachment 13688
Attachment 13689
Finally got a log uploaded. This is a quick one, 2 miles of 4 lane highway from a parking lot, then in boost a bit, then back to cruising speed, and that was it. My battery light is still on dimly, but as I drive and the RPM's go up it gets brighter and my headlights get dimmer. I noticed the headlight dimming issue for about 1 year now, not just with MS but even on the stock computer, but I never had the battery light. I also know that if my car sits for a few weeks the battery will be a bit drained.
Question 1: If I disconnect my battery to put in a new one, do I have to recalibrate the LC-1?
Question 2: Do you think my battery might need to be replaced? The car is 10 years old and it's the original battery.
Question 3: When I change the gauges in MT and then close MT and then reopen MT, the gauges don't stay what I changed them to. How do I get them to stay?
1) No, you shouldn't have to. It's a function of the sensor, and it's all burned into the LC-1's flash. If it looks WAY off, you could recal, but I wouldn't worrya bout it
2) 10 years old? Yes. :-) Marc's right, the alternator can be stressed trying to keep the battery charged, so the sooner you swap it the better.
3) You *can* do it, there's an ini you edit. I swapped my gauges. Also, you can change the colors (I have black backgrounds so there's less light in the cab when running at night, and for more contrast. Also, I changed the "warning" colors and limits (ever wonder why some turn orange or pink, etc? You can set all that)....

But as far as "right click save gauges", no, you can't.


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How can you not love this interface?
I can hate anything that lets me be a bitter old man while hating it. :-)

I had issues with it early on, and, was worried... it seems to be pretty stable now (not sure it's AS stable as MT but whatever). I'm sold, I think, I'm just not ready to take the half day it would take to trust it. Maybe this weekend.
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