cool, Just let me know your results on normal driving after you swap them out. I want to know if the sync problems in cruise are limited to me only.

 

I didn't swap the caps yet, but it is raining now. It's supposed to rain all weekend, so I might swap these possibly tonight. I did notice something weird though. When I have this little sync issue, if I have the laptop plugged in, I notice that it kinda pauses the screen on Tuner Studio. Once it comes back around, every gauge looks good except for the AFR gauge. It will always be different than what my dash's LC-1 gauge will read. If I close TS and re-open it, it'll be dead on again. Weird. Also, I noticed this sync issue even in boost. I was about 3psi into it and it did it's thing.
As for the dimly lit battery light, I can just ignore it as it's starting to not bother me. Did you guys figure anything out to overcome this?

 

Didn't check the battery light thing yet, been severely uder the weather here, only posting in moments of clarity.

Make sure the wholeMS isn't reseting - typically a grounding or power issue - look for a verticle red bar in the logs

Also, check if the loss is always happening at the same RPM's or pair of RPMS... Probably its none of these things, but since I know what to look for we might as well look.

 

I have no vertical red bars (resets) in the logs. In fact, I haven't had any resets since I swapped from MS-1. I swapped those caps on C1 and C2 this morning, then I drove the car about 15 miles. It didn't do one little hickup. I didn't have the laptop hooked up to it, and I also didn't go into boost beyond like 3-4psi. I am driving the car to work today and I should be home around 11PM tonight. If I does anything like it was doing before, I will report back. Otherwise it seems fine for now, I will do some datalogs maybe tomorrow and see how things go. I still have no idea why when it would do it's little tick the AFR's on the laptop screen would be all different. Hopefully those caps fixed it. Thanks again guys and thanks for the Caps MarcD!

 

yup. And there's no "noise" whatsoever. No flickering gauges, no crap.

Nice that the caps cured your problem. COuld be limited to me now for the hickups. I gotta fix that gap.

 

Marc,
Definitely check the gap, but that will only get you so far. If you are in the reasonable range (i.e. low side of factory gap spec), consider small caps still. What size did you end up running? Caps in series are like resistors in parallel, so, put two in series across each hole and see if it doesn't fix your problem. Personally, I'd start by pulling them entirely and stepping back from there.

 

What the...I think I F'd up, maybe? Marc, I still have shitty dial up and in the PM you sent me about swapping C1 and C2 you have also sent me a pic which was the adapter board. This pic didn't load right away so when you said C1 and C2, I thought you meant on the 3.0 MS board. These are the caps I swapped. I followed this schematic and I swapped C1 and C2...

 

The car seemed to run pretty good last night, I drove it about 15 miles from a cold start. Then shut it off for about 1 hour. Then 15 more miles, then off. Then it sat for 9 hours, then drove it straight home for 30 miles. No hicks, but like I said laptop wasn't hooked up to it the whole time. So what caps did I mistakenly swap, and if it was a mistake, then why didn't my car do it's usual thing?

 

FYI, this is the picture you sent me Marc...

 

Uhh.... I wouldn't know about that. But when i meant C1 and C2, I meant the caps on Abe's board. :( Not sure if it would cause a problem if you swapped those caps. Maybe someone can chime in what they do?

 

Guess what I did with the caps that I took out...TRASH, because I cut them. I can get the ones that I installed out easily though, and I could reuse them on the adapter board. Now I just need to figure out what caps to put back in.

 

Does anyone know what the caps are that I took out so I can go to Radio Shack and buy 2 more?

 

they should be on the BOM page on the megamanual.

MegaSquirt Digi-Key v3.0 Main Board BOM

0.1µF cap X7r Temp rating for C1 You may have spares actually cause there are 20 of those ******* you were supposed to get.

0.22µF cap X7r Temp rating for C2 as well. Not sure if there are any spare for that. check your left over parts if you didnt build everything for your MS. you may have left over parts you can use.

 

So yesterday I finally swapped the transistor for the idle on the adapter board. I also pulled the capacitors that I (like a dumbass) put in C1 and C2 on the MS, and I put them in C1 and C2 on the ADAPTER BOARD. Wow do I feel stupid. Marc, if you and Abe lived on this side of the US and were coming to the NE dyno day, I would expect both of you to kick me square in the nuts.
Anyway, the adapter board is complete, transistors and caps, DONE. I ordered new capacitors for C1 and C2 from DigiKey yesterday and I should have them tomorrow or Saturday, then my car will be back together again and running, hopefully with lower idle and no little ticks. Thanks again guys for all you help. I'll repost with results, probably on Sunday.

 

ahaha, awesome. Don't worry, we all make stupid mistakes like that. Trust me, ask how i know

HOpefully you get your car running up and good so you can tune that ****!

 

So I got those caps today and I got everything back together. I didn't change any PWM settings or anything at all, but when I try to start the car it just cranks and tries ti catch, and then nothing. I even tried to hold the throttle open a bit and still nothing, in fact that seems to make things worse. What should I change in my .msq to compensate for the new transistor / caps on the adapter board?

 

YOu didn't change any settings?



Did you hook your MAP line back up?

 

A few things.



C1 and C2 are both filter caps. The first for the processor, the second for the MAP sensor. In both cases it would put more noise on the line but not really hurt anything, especially the MAP which is software filtered anyway.


1) Did you forget to hook up the MAP line? That happens sometimes and it makes it not want to start.
2) You didn't cook the board at all, did you, when swapping caps? If it got black where you were soldering, check to make sure no pads or traces were hurting!
3) Is it getting fuel? Perhaps the TPS is in flood clear mode?

Oh. Check all the wire-block wires. Perhaps one is in the wrong spot (specifically, the AIT/MAT line. If that's messed up it'll be near impossible to start). But check all those connections, make sure nothing is messed up there.

Sorry I've been out folks, was super sick for like a week. Turning on the computer was more than I could handle.

Nothing at all. Shouldn't make a difference.

 

Good tips.


Oh ****. Swine flu? lol.

 

So I hooked the laptop up to it and cranked and cranked. It sounded like it wanted to start several times, but wouldn't stay running for more than 2 seconds. I pulled the MS and in a few minutes I'm going to check everything with my meter.