Holy Smoke! So fast @_@

Will test in the morning. Will also be rewiring the outputs as previously described, so I can control the AC engagement from TS.

 

v4 beta2 should be the one

 

I did some more testing on v3 with regard to the droop on deceleration.

V3 (no corrections during dashpot event)


V4 (corrections during dashpot event)


Whoa! It aggressively increases the dashpot value. It still remains a flat line though- how was this implemented? Never get a droop now. I can lower my dashpot value from 12 to a much lower value now.

I also rewired the ECU as described in the previous page. The ECU now has full control of the AC with independent delays on the AC clutch and fans.

My current idle graph


The AC switch-on can be seen with the status 4 line. The AC clutch activates 0.333 seconds after, and the AC fan 4 seconds later.

 

With the rewire, the timing of the AC clutch, AC fan, and main fan are all under the control of the ECU! All extra solenoids and associated relaays have been removed frm the car.

A snapshot of the current idle tune:




IMPT NOTE: 3.1.3 from which the modified FW was based has a serious issue with the injectors at >90% duty cycle or >6000RPM. Use with caution. Awaiting a fix for this.

 

As requested- data comparing the dashpot actions with and without the AC idle up code.

Turns out, if I turn off the AC idle up, status4 does not start counting, and the AC compressor does not engage So I just kept it on and set the adder to 1.

AC adder 1, voltage correction factor 0


AC adder 13, voltage correction factor 18


Overlaid and magnified:

 

OK. Tried installing the RX8 injectors along with the M-Tuned dual feed rail. I thought I was finished- when the fuel pump primed, fuel started leaking from the injectors and the Y-adapter!




The Y- adapter has this threaded plug in the center, and it leaks like crazy! Plus a gorilla put it in- I can't remove it! If I use a vise grip, I'll end up mangling the anodized finish...

The leakage at the injectors- well that was on me! It was really tight, and I forgot to lube the o rings before pushing the injectors in. Yep, you guessed it...




The last thing I need now is to worry about a fuel leak, so I wimped out and used the stock fuel rail

 

go to advance auto parts and pick up a brass tee for $3. /leaks.


next time install those injectors with some lube on teh o-rings. vasoline or motor oil or something.

 

WD40 works quite well IME.

 

Yep, my thoughts exactly, a plain old brass T. I don't need an extra hole to worry about, especially for fuel. Plus that triangle thing is HUGE! Hard to hide...

 

Um guys, what resistor do I use for R14 in the input 1 circuit?

I have:
a. 470QBK-ND: 470 ohm 5% 5w axial
b. 1.0KQBK-ND: 1k ohm 5% 0.25w

Thanks

 

2.2k

 

Is this a weird trigger angle offset value? It is correctly adjusted to get the commanded +10 advance. Are there any issues running this much offset?



Is my trigger angle offset too "hellaflush"?
Should I rotate my CAS and adjust this to a lower number? If so, what?

 

no, mines -16.5.

 

OK. I just checked, it was the MSPNP instructions that threw me off. Thanks!

 

thats different.

 

Two concerns with this - 1) my CAS can't turn around enough to even get anywhere near this setting, and 2) the base maps from DIYAutoTune have the value of +8 I think and this corresponds with the settings I've had to use.

So what gives?

 

No need to touch the CAS. Spark advance is 100% controlled via software.

 

Sure - just surprised that similar cars can have wildly differing settings for timing given that I can't even get the CAS to support a value of -15 degrees for the trigger angle?

 

Ok next issue. Soldered a 2.2k resistor into r14 of input 1 so I can run 1v--input 1---pe0 (launch/clutch lockout). It had no resistor because it was previously used to connect 1q--1j (AC circuit)

Anyway, I am using input 2 to connect 1q to pe1. I peeked at the input 2 area and found that r17 was missing! Do I need to put a resistor there? What type? What happens without it? :/

 

same thing. 2.2k