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DIYPNP questions!

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Old Oct 27, 2010 | 02:38 PM
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Default DIYPNP questions!

Hello guys,

I bought a diypnp for my '99. I've got the board completely assembled (hopefully).

I followed the assembly instructions here: http://www.diyautotune.com/diypnp/do..._assembly.html

and the jumpers from here:
http://www.diyautotune.com/diypnp/ap...0-18bp-mt.html.

Do I not need a pull up on the ALED for VICS control?
Also is nothing needed for the VR in +&- connections?

I bought a voltage regulator and connector from NAPA- VR38SB. I'm not entirely sure where to connect it. Are the directions in this thread correct?
http://www.msextra.com/forums/viewto...26836&start=20. If they are could someone please give me a dummy explanation. I don't want to mess anything up.
Do I need to do anything on the board itself once I get the voltage regulator set up?

Besides loading firmware, installing AIT and MAP hose, is there anything I am missing or need to do before I put it in the car?

Thank you, and sorry for being a I know these questions are probably answered somewhere but I can't understand them sometimes.
Old Oct 27, 2010 | 02:41 PM
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1. no.
2. no.
3. one wire goes to ground, one to 12v, and one to 1O IIRC.
Old Oct 27, 2010 | 02:54 PM
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Originally Posted by Braineack
1. no.
2. no.
3. one wire goes to ground, one to 12v, and one to 1O IIRC.
Thanks,

Mine only has two leads on it. So ground the case I guess? Then hook the blue wire to +12v and the green one to the Red/grey wire coming off the alternator that goes to pin 1O.

Wheres the best spot to get the +12v from?

Oh, another quick question. Do I need to do anything to the diypnp physically when I install my lc-1?
Old Oct 27, 2010 | 03:01 PM
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oh yeah, only two, the box itself must be grounded FWIW.

https://www.miataturbo.net/showthrea...hlight=voltage


also remember 1O does not equal 1O as far as the DIYPNP is concerned. It might be 4O I can't remember. ill double check that one for you.



for wbo2, you must bring the input into the db15 and connect it to the o2 hole on the PCB.
Old Oct 27, 2010 | 03:15 PM
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FWIW, the NAPA regulator never worked for me. 1O is still 1O on the DIYPNP.
Old Oct 27, 2010 | 03:24 PM
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Oh right, I figured it was 1O still cause the other regulation circuit gets jumped to 1O on the diypnp from the proto area. But I'll be fine if i just splice it right into the red/gray from off the alternator right?

So ill run the wbo2 in from the db15, then from that pin to the edge pin labeled o2?

Out of curiosity what happens if the alternator voltage is not regulated?

I'm hoping to get all this done tonight.. The wbo2 install, put ait in, and hook up the diypnp!
Old Oct 27, 2010 | 03:36 PM
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Originally Posted by jeremiahhh
Oh right, I figured it was 1O still cause the other regulation circuit gets jumped to 1O on the diypnp from the proto area. But I'll be fine if i just splice it right into the red/gray from off the alternator right?
Yes

Originally Posted by jeremiahhh
Out of curiosity what happens if the alternator voltage is not regulated?
Battery voltage.
Old Oct 27, 2010 | 03:36 PM
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battery doesn't charge and you get sad face when car dies and you get stranded.

if it's working and car is running, voltage should stay steady at 14v.
Old Oct 27, 2010 | 04:50 PM
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If you have not read it yet
https://www.miataturbo.net/megasquirt-18/99-diypnp-1-5-build-comments-questions-48516/
It might have some useful info (unless it confuses things).
Making the Alt Regulator yourself is not that hard, and its 1O, where mine have done the job nicely the whole summer.
Old Oct 28, 2010 | 10:55 AM
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Originally Posted by Braineack
battery doesn't charge and you get sad face when car dies and you get stranded.

if it's working and car is running, voltage should stay steady at 14v.
I seem to recall another thread where the opposite happened: The voltage went to 18 volts and damaged everything.
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Old Oct 28, 2010 | 11:12 AM
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maybe that.
Old Oct 28, 2010 | 12:14 PM
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Having tried it myself a few times and in different configurations: no current from the alternator.
Old Oct 28, 2010 | 06:17 PM
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I didn't get to do it last night, but I'm gonna do it all tomorrow. I'll just shoot for doing it the right way so I don't have to deal with any of those problems .

NiklasFalk, I've read your thread a few times actually hah. Someone mentions that only the oem ecu understands the knock signal. So is it recommended to get an after-market one at least when I turbo?
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