It can be modded up to do so by the end-user-- we made allowances for that, and there's info on doing this in the manual. Speaking of the manual I just posted it online-- it's pretty exhaustive compared to what alot of manufacturers offer. Go to http://www.megasquirtpnp.com/mspnp_installation.htm and there's a link at the bottom.

 

so MSPNP + Map sensor that does barometic on the fly and knock sensors = 800-850ish?

 

Damn, everyone is converting...

 

I want one of these real bad now. ****, time to save up the money.

 

Peer pressure is a bitch.

 

nah, it's just the most economical stand alone around. Had there been a group buy on the Link G3, I'd have gotten one of those.

$700 for a fully featured standalone is a good deal.

 

We're pleased to announce our new partnership with the leading MegaSquirt experts, DIYAutoTune.

To celebrate becoming the very first Miata-oriented MegaSquirt vendor in the world, we're running a group buy on 20 MSPNP units for 1990-1993 Miatas at $50 off the $700 retail price.

Visit our website for details on the group buy:

http://miataroadster.com/mspnp.html

Thanks in advance for the opportunity to help you tune your Miata!

 

can we get these with the knock and 4bar GM sensor with the group buy?

 

The knocksenseMS comes from http://www.viatrack.ca/
DIY is working on an in house solution, but for now orders are taken at the above site.

The upgraded map sensor is called mapdaddy and is 4bar + baro correction. Jerry said he would make sure that it meshed well with the MS, and if not, another solution may be to use (2) of the 2.5 bar sensors to attain baro correction. If you don't care about baro correction, the standard sensor is good for atmosphere + 21 psi.

How upgrades work with the group buy, that would be interesting...

 

The GB is for the standard units with the 2.5bar sensor-- GB's tend to get too complicated if you start offering custom options that you have to track for each participant. The idea there is to make the core system available at a discounted price. We do have a limited number of MapDaddy's available through the end of June if people would like to order a modded system directly through us, in late June or July we'll have more MapDaddy's being built up, just waiting on parts.

 

so pretty much long as im not going up and down say 1000 feet or so the 2.5 bar without the baro will do me fine? Here in dem Ore-gun the "spirtited" driving is normally up and down mountains and stuff. Marrys Peak or German Town Road where you start off around say 750 and end at say 2500ish. So with that being said going from close to sea level (at the beach) and driving back home (through the mountain pass) without baro correction will the car sputter and be all gimpy cus it cant tell the air got thinner when going over the mnt's or will it really not matter?

 

If you're going to regularly see that kind of elevation change while pushing the car it would be a good idea to have the optional baro correction in there for sure...

Question-- you guys with the DIY setups.... how many of you have opted for the MapDaddy or another solution for baro correction?

 

I live in the east tennessee valley, about 1000ft, and make trips to deals gap, 1800ft, and don't have any problems. I wouldn't bother with baro correction unless I lived in colorado or similar...

 

Yeah but do you rhomp it during the elevation change or once you get to the 1800 do you turn off your car then re-start it. The normal MAP sensor re-calculates everytime you turn on the car so if you dont rhomp on it till you make it to 1800ft and have turned the car off it re-calcs. The Map daddy does it on the fly so in my case when I start off at 750 feet and go up marrys peak to like 2500 feet rhomping on it the full way the car wont recalibrate to the air change. GM came out with the sensor cus one of their old SUV's people used to take em to the Mnt and it would start runnin like **** half way up but once they turned the car off at the top and started again it ran fine. Then when they go home half way down it ran like **** and the same deal. So many of them came back to the shop with the same complaint GM replaced it with a auto-correcting baro MAP sensor.

 

I opted to have an external MAP sensor for my MS - that way I wouldn't have to worry about the vaccum tube. I have it installed on the shock tower brace and tube length is like 8-9 inches - I use a GM 1 bar unit. I got a second one as well for baro - it's installed but reads slightly lower than the main MAP sensor which I corrected with a tweaked barofactor.inc file.



The second MAP sensor is right where the stock baro sensor is. I figured that if Mazda though that was a good point to measure the ambient pressure, then it must be so!

Jim

 

Can you use the on-board MAP sensor as the baro correction sensor and use an external sensor as your main one?

 

With some modification... yes...

 

Are you certain that the pressure in the cabin is going to be the same as in the atmosphere?

Jim

 

ain't nuthin sealed in a miata

c'mon Jerry, I'm starting to fiend like a crack addict

Ben

 

You could never be 100% certain of this as a blanket statement of course... depends on the car/conditions/whether or not you opted for the cabin pressurization system (overpriced option IMO )... generally it's going to be very close though. For that matter-- can you be sure of this as a blanket statement in the engine compartment? Low pressure and high pressure areas can exist effecting this there as well.... The OEMs may properly engineer around those areas... but the average guy wouldn't necessarily know how to do that without a wind tunnel and a bunch of sensors, one at ambient and several located at different areas around the engine bay.