I want to see a duck wench to go along with my new pirate duck wallpaper.

 

I think some duck stickers with "miataturbo.net" on them in small font would be ******* hilarious.

 

It sure is more aggressive than the diy base spark map in boost. I may try the FM timing map -2 or 3 until I can get to a dyno. That'd still be more aggressive than the diy base.

 

Hi guys I think its great to see everyones maps,even if people don't use them directly, it gives ideas to people that have been running a very different map and shows there is more hp to be had.
I do think any new map change needs careful examination in your own car and very few do actually go to the dyno.
So here are a few ideas to hear the ping better.
If you have access to a stethascope( these have a steel diaphram which increases the sound), clamp the probe to the head with a bolt securely and extend the air tube from it to the ear piece by 6-8 foot.So you can drive your car with the stethascope in your ears. You will hear even the slightest ping, but if there is too much background noise, you can.
This is like using the resistor in knocksense;
Get 8 foot of vacuum hose with 4mm id hole,stick a piece of steel rod or bolt into one end, zip tie on, leave enough steel rod sticking out to clamp under a bolt on the head and clamp securely .Buy a set of cheap ear muffs , drill a hole in one ear to tightly fit hose through, push hose through so it actually enters the ear when fitted and go for a drive.
Very important;
make sure the hose does not get squashed anywhere and it is taped down so it does not vibrate or knock against anything.
Hope this may help someone and sorry I don't know how to spell stethascope.
Thanks Col

 

Weird, my knocksense has always been good to me. I don't know why it goes off when it does, but it's typically under high boost, high ambiant temps, and high revs. I just tuned it by free reving, and it never goes off when it doesn't seem like it should (except sometimes on grindy shifts).

Anyway, it's been a joy to tune with MS plucking timing out of my car. I drive around for five minutes, then pull over, check logs, tweak 0.5-1.5* of timing out of cells where the noise was and cells leading up to that cell.

Basically, I just used the 'hybrid' map, and found out that everything over 6k needed various amounts pulled. I have a feeling I could add more in the midrange, but at least the car doesn't fall flat anymore up top.

If I thought I could trust my AFR's, I'd say I could tune it on the street like this, with some patience. I'll post maps later, after I do more tuning.

P.S. This also inspired me to overclock my quadcore. Now I compress movies at 28 fps verses 20 from before. Awesome.

 

Just a followup on this, since we fixed it tonight. This is what happens when you install a Mapdaddy MAP sensor in an MSPNP, but forget to set the MSQ from 250kpa to 400kpa in the engine constants page. Set it for the 400kpa MAP sensor and it's like it should be.

Also installed an MSPNP on a JRSC'ed '90 today. Kicked the AFPR and the JR BTC to the curb, and solved idle droop issues to boot. The owner is thrilled.

 

Back from the dead.....

This thread needs tags, or stickied or something. Lots of good timing info in it, but hard to find. Only reason I found it is cause I remember there was a long timing thread with a title about FM in it.

Here's the table I'm running right now on my 99' I can't run as much timing as everyone else as the headwork I did makes it easier to knock. Also, I'm not boosted so the boosted sells are not tuned or tested. This map was born by getting info from a hydra guy, making a table on it, then pulling timing where I had knock.



This map is a basically the same thing, but smoothed out more. I'm about to load this one and try it.




One question though. Why are some people not adding timing in after peak torque? Any reason not to?

 

I'll have to look, but I think I have timing added in back later. More or less, I ran till I saw knock, and pulled timing where I did.

I know I've seen cars before with the least timing at the torque peak, or at least reduced, though if this is to save the driveline or prevent engine damage, I'm unsure.

Really, a dyno is the way to do thing.

 

I'm running the lower map I posted yesterday. I picked up a lot of top end and smoothness with this map compared to the one I was running that sucked.

 

Uh huh, I'd noticed the same thing, adding in top end, while not any smoother, did get me a lot more power, the car stopped feeling like it was "done", and redline became this meaningless stripe on the tach instead of a actual representation of when you're out of power.

 

Hi guy's wow there is alot of stuff in this thread and alot of maps....

Im running ms2 with the toytoy COP conversion and wondering to find the best fuel#spark table to start with I have a 1.6 liter Turbo gt2560R, stock b6t injectors and bottom end with the forged rod and the head is like miata 1.6 head excep i have a 1angle valve job, a bit of porting and b6t exhaust cams. planning to run around 12-15psi next summer

Found alot of stuff in this thread but ima bit confused (poor in english) and not sure if 1.8 maps will fit to my 1.6.

Thanks to help

 

What octane fuel was used when this map was generated?

 

Here is my base timing map for a 1990 w/1.8 drivetrain conversion running a VNT25 at ~15-16psi. All controlled by an ancient TEC II running standalone

I know it's not a MS but it is a conservative starting point, and so far I haven't picked up anything with my detonation earphones at various full pulls up some good steep hills.

 

This is a good thread however i see lack of info with the maps posted. They definitely are helpful but probably quite dangerous

On a side note, how do you guys tune cruise timing?

 

Advance spark until it stops making power at the desired AFR. I like 15.6 "with about 38* of spark angle.

 

how do you determine max power at part throttle?

 

We use a steady state chassis dyno.

 

Bumping because i'm planning for the future with my car, and it was linked over on another thread i was looking at.

Are most of these MS maps i'm seeing showing absolute pressure? Ergo 100kpa = one atmosphere, then above that is boosty goodness?

Trying to reference against what i've got. (Not set up with cans, but was on a steady state Dyno Dynamics "heartbreaker," we were just trying to get the car on the road.)

 

Yup

 

Huh. Thinking I should visit timings. My new set up is marginally faster on 22 psi with big valves than my old one was with a stock head and 15 psi. There's a lot more left in it.

Anyone have a VVT ignition map they like for pump gas?