Mine starts at 385 and goes fairly linearlly down to 100 at 235*f

 

Wouldn't that mean a whole lot more fuel?

I have 650s, btw.

 

So? Its in % of.

 

Unfortunately, that's not entirely true. Good luck starting with 650cc EV14s and 100 at the highest temp

 

well he aint having any luck now

 

Cranking twice to start it from completely cold means that may have to add/remove 10-15% fuel, not 300-400%.

 

This is america, go big or go home!

 

Even at $4 per gallon?

 

especially then! You gotta spend money frivilously like Greece in order to make yourself a super power.

 

By being forced to buy US, German and French planes, submarines and boats by using money we are given as stimulus, right?

 

Hello.. It's over TEN BUCKS a gallon over here..

Also, Dimitris, there is a "cranking episode" in the log I sent you, as well.
(At the very beginning.)

 

In that log, the engine starts (RPM > 900) in 0.8 seconds.

 

OK, I bumped the cranking PW by about %15-20 across the board, and it made a visible difference.

I will add another %10 and try it one more time. (Now that the engine is cold again)

Oh, I never see the MIL coming on. Isn't it supposed to?

 

Very cool progress!

Increasing fuel by another %10 made it better.

And, increasing cranking advance from 6 to 12 degrees made it perfect!

 

Here is the final version of my cranking table:
(with 12 degrees of cranking advance)

 

You don't want that much advance during cranking as you may kick back the starter.

 

Hmm. The car seems to love it, tho.
I'll try it a couple more times before I bump it down.

 

If you don't have a problem with starting, then leave it as is. However, my experience with 10* of cranking advance is that it randomly kicks the starter back. It depends on your actual cranking speed etc. For example it happens a lot more if your battery is not 100% up to the job.

 

I understand completely.
I have quite a bit of hands on experience on engines, especially ignition and engine management systems, and bumping the advance has always proved a better starting scheme for me.
What I don't understand is the negative prop I have received for reporting that increased pw indeed helped starting the engine, a couple posts ago...

 

What negative prop?

Btw, do you actually have a check engine light on your gauge cluster?