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Old 01-16-2008, 05:52 PM   #61
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ive tryed 13.1, 14.7, 15.7, 11.1... its all the same.

If I have the coils switched, would it do this?
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Old 01-16-2008, 05:58 PM   #62
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if the triggers were switched it wouldnt run.

are you sure you cut your injector leads into the stock ecu, you dont have control over the fuel for some reason. it may be the PWM circuit, where you jumped the resistors on the heatsink. I'll reread the megamanual about that when i get home....or you can
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Old 01-16-2008, 06:09 PM   #63
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Even if the stock ecu was connected to the injectors (which it isent) it would still run, I currently have the car on the stock ecu right now so I can drive the car.

Ill see if I can find anything in the megamanual.. thanks.
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Old 01-16-2008, 06:13 PM   #64
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71. It is choice time yet again. You have to decide whether to install the current limit circuit for driver FET protection. This clamps the current to ~14 Amps, and it is recommended that most people install this. To install the current limit protect circuit:

Install R37 {TAH20PR050JE-ND}. It goes on the heat sink, however it does not have a mounting hole. You can use double sided thermal transfer tape {BER158-ND} to fasten it to the heat sink, however this is quite expensive if you are just doing two resistors.
Install R38 {TAH20PR050JE-ND}. It goes on the heat sink as well, however it does not have a mounting hole. You can use double sided thermal transfer tape {BER158-ND} to fasten it to the heat sink, however this is quite expensive if you are just doing two resistors.
There are no jumpers to install.
However, the circuit can be omitted if protection is not required or desired - in this case install jumpers in place of R37 and R38.
72. IF you installed R37 and R38 in the previous step, install Q14 and Q15 {2N3904FS-ND} - otherwise you can leave then out. It does no harm to install them in every case, however. Use a clean tip, and be careful not to bridge the closely spaced pins.


According to that, I should be fine. I have Q14 and Q15 out, and R37 and R38 are jumped. Of course I jumped r37 and r38 while they are still on he bord (showen in the picture). That shouldent effect anything correct?
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Old 01-16-2008, 06:54 PM   #65
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cardriverx View Post
Even if the stock ecu was connected to the injectors (which it isent) it would still run, I currently have the car on the stock ecu right now so I can drive the car.

Ill see if I can find anything in the megamanual.. thanks.
Um, if the car tells the injector to open for 3ms, then the MS tells it to open for 2.5ms a little bit later, it'll get twice the fuel it wants.
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Old 01-16-2008, 07:07 PM   #66
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Um, if the car tells the injector to open for 3ms, then the MS tells it to open for 2.5ms a little bit later, it'll get twice the fuel it wants.

I know, but the wires are cut going to the ecu on the boomslang.
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Old 01-16-2008, 08:08 PM   #67
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cardriverx View Post
71. It is choice time yet again. You have to decide whether to install the current limit circuit for driver FET protection. This clamps the current to ~14 Amps, and it is recommended that most people install this. To install the current limit protect circuit:


According to that, I should be fine. I have Q14 and Q15 out, and R37 and R38 are jumped. Of course I jumped r37 and r38 while they are still on he bord (showen in the picture). That shouldent effect anything correct?
Sure, you should be ok. You can leave them in, too, skip the jumper if you have room. Most people leave them out because there's no place physically to place them. Perhaps a picture of your board or an explination of what you skipped are in order.
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Old 01-16-2008, 08:10 PM   #68
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Maybe he should just complete the board and then he wouldn't have to worry about it
I'm a big fan of doing more than you need to JIC so you don't have to worry about that being the problem.
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Old 01-16-2008, 08:20 PM   #69
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PICS ARE HERE
http://i53.photobucket.com/albums/g4.../MS/ms3002.jpg
http://i53.photobucket.com/albums/g4.../MS/ms3001.jpg

I cant really put Q14 and Q15 back on, I think I messed them up takeing them out when I bidged the solders.
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Old 01-17-2008, 04:15 AM   #70
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cardriverx View Post
ive tryed 13.1, 14.7, 15.7, 11.1... its all the same.

If I have the coils switched, would it do this?
Yes, the triggers can be alright but the coil outputs can be switched. It would run the way you describe it.

Håkan
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Old 01-17-2008, 01:11 PM   #71
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cardriverx View Post
PICS ARE HERE
http://i53.photobucket.com/albums/g4.../MS/ms3002.jpg
http://i53.photobucket.com/albums/g4.../MS/ms3001.jpg

I cant really put Q14 and Q15 back on, I think I messed them up takeing them out when I bidged the solders.
hahaha. you pasted urls with ... in them. FAIL
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Old 01-17-2008, 01:37 PM   #72
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Quote:
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hahaha. you pasted urls with ... in them. FAIL
The forum automatically shortens them, not sure why.
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Old 01-17-2008, 02:05 PM   #73
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www.tinyurl.com

But, more to the point, when you insert it as a pic it works... Or,I guess you could make it a LINK instead of just writing it in

Example:
http://tinyurl.com/324tpk

Single click on a button on my toolbar.
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Old 01-17-2008, 08:31 PM   #74
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Name:  ms3002.jpg
Views: 1
Size:  130.1 KB

Name:  ms3001.jpg
Views: 1
Size:  147.1 KB
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Old 01-18-2008, 01:21 PM   #75
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I doubt this has anything to do with the starting, but you jumpered one of the 050"" ressitors and not the other?
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Old 01-18-2008, 02:21 PM   #76
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its jumped on the back.
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Old 01-19-2008, 12:52 AM   #77
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yeah, i dunno I just put one jumper on the front and one on the back... I duno guys im outta ideas.
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Old 01-21-2008, 12:22 AM   #78
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Im just throwing ideas, but say Q14 and Q15 still have solder left on it and its still bridged. Would that cause problems like this?
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Old 01-21-2008, 01:12 AM   #79
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I'd say adjust req fuel lower to lean it out till it runs right. Easy and might do it. Try 10, 8,6, etc. Couldn't hurt. Also pull up a pulse width guage in MegaTune and see what it's doing while it's running. Try doing a datalog while it's running shitty and show us your datalog.
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Old 01-21-2008, 02:39 AM   #80
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Quote:
Originally Posted by patsmx5 View Post
I'd say adjust req fuel lower to lean it out till it runs right. Easy and might do it. Try 10, 8,6, etc. Couldn't hurt. Also pull up a pulse width guage in MegaTune and see what it's doing while it's running. Try doing a datalog while it's running shitty and show us your datalog.
Heh, advice I like
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