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Old 07-20-2008, 08:15 PM   #61
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Old 07-20-2008, 11:46 PM   #62
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This thing is coming along!! I am on step 56!! ..but a few more questions.. step 59..
"(Note - do not install D8 if you are using a PWM idle valve." again if someone would be kind enough to advise? am i doing the pwm idle valve? do i install the d8?
for 65? is that something i should do later with one of the other circuits?
69? just f it and install it all? or not needed? then it looks like i WILL install70 and 71.
Thanks alot again!
btw.. i am soon going to do step 62.. "Be VERY careful soldering these small transistors, clean your tip, and make sure not to bridge the closely spaced pins. " uhh lol, they are so close together they almost look bridged without any soldering!! i am kinda worried about this.. hopefully it will be ok..
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Old 07-21-2008, 08:53 AM   #63
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Yes, a '99 has a PWM idle valve.
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Old 07-21-2008, 01:32 PM   #64
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step 59.. "(Note - do not install D8 if you are using a PWM idle valve." again if someone would be kind enough to advise? am i doing the pwm idle valve? do i install the d8?
Nope. You'll do the Purple Box mod in 62.

for 65? is that something i should do later with one of the other circuits?
Nope, omit that step entirely. You can re-use that spot on the heatsink (where Q16 would have gone) to mount the PWM IAC driver from Step 62.

69? just f it and install it all? or not needed? then it looks like i WILL install70 and 71.
No harm in building the whole thing. On the other hand. if you know for a fact that you will never use Lo-Z injectors (of that you'll use an external driver if you do) then you can omit Step 69 and free up two additional heatsink spaces- Q9 and Q12. These will be useful if you wish to do EBC, for instance.
btw.. i am soon going to do step 62.. "Be VERY careful soldering these small transistors, clean your tip, and make sure not to bridge the closely spaced pins. " uhh lol, they are so close together they almost look bridged without any soldering!! i am kinda worried about this.. hopefully it will be ok..
Just take it nice & easy. Use as little solder as necessary to get flow through the holes, and don't skimp on the heat. Yes, excessive heat can damage transistors, but insufficient heat prevents good solder flow. You don't need a blob of solder protruding out from the hole on the top & bottom of the board, just enough to fill the hole. In general, I like to use the thinnest solder available for this sort of thing, as it's easier to regulate how much of it melts & flows into the joint. Here in the lab we have .025" solder which I love, but .032" is available from RadioShack. Don't even think about .05" or .062"- that stuff is welding rod by comparison.
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Old 07-21-2008, 03:10 PM   #65
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I would have said, a while ago, to be sure to build the PWM low z injector stuff, but the circuit you can get to run them externally is better in every way - unless you just want to test injectors all day. But the MSv3 board is noisey as hell and though I run it I wouldn't recommend it for low Z.

Also, where you can, put the shunt diodes in the fans/PWM-idle, etc, either into the boomslang or on the componnats themselves. I put one inside and burnt out traces on my board. :-(
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Old 07-21-2008, 07:00 PM   #66
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What r the shunt diodes?

Speaking of boomslang... I still haven't ordered the adapter that will be soldered onto the end of the db37 cable. The adapter that connects to the stock ecu port... Any recommendations as to where to order?
Thanks!
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Old 07-21-2008, 07:10 PM   #67
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Er, they'll be called "flyback" diodes, which is a term I swear I was in the dark about till this MS project, even though I've done plenty of electronics. Go figure.

Perhaps someone can talk DIYautotune into buying that connector in some bulk. It sure seems there's a market for several a month on miataturbo.net alone. Anyway, look around, I forget the place... Check my other thread maybe.
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Old 07-21-2008, 07:25 PM   #68
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Cool!! I will have to look around.. Sucks prolly won't get a chance to do any soldering today though ... At work all day :(
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Old 07-22-2008, 06:37 AM   #69
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i have been doing again alot of reading and trying to figure more stuff out.. naturally this leads to more questions...
the purples box mod.. where should i mount TIP120/121/122 transistor? i am also confused about where the wires lead? looking at brains how to... it looks like the transistor is supposed to have leads going to q4 as in the diagram in the purple box on megamanual? also when they say to jumper r39.. looking at brains how to pics.. i can just bridge the terminals on r39 with a snipped of lead?
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Old 07-22-2008, 06:42 AM   #70
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ahh i am answering my own questions.. i think...
joe, you said "for 65? is that something i should do later with one of the other circuits?

Nope, omit that step entirely. You can re-use that spot on the heatsink (where Q16 would have gone) to mount the PWM IAC driver from Step 62."
so i can mount that tip 120 where q16 was going to go....
i have been looking at this stuff and reading for wayyy too long.
thanks a bunch guys! time for me to go to bed so i dont mess up because i am too tired when i solder tomorrow!
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Old 07-22-2008, 12:38 PM   #71
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Serper3 View Post
joe, you said "for 65? is that something i should do later with one of the other circuits?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Joe Perez
Nope, omit that step entirely. You can re-use that spot on the heatsink (where Q16 would have gone) to mount the PWM IAC driver from Step 62."
so i can mount that tip 120 where q16 was going to go....
Physically, yes. Don't solder its terminals into the board at that spot, but you can screw it into the heatsink at that location. You'll still need to run the wires to the Q4 hole.

As to the question of R39, this is one of those situations where there are two different ways to do it, and either one will work, but you have to know how to read a schematic to realize that. Here is the IDL circuit. I've removed the appropriate components, leaving in Q4 with the understanding that that's now a TIP120:



See where R39 used to be? That's how Q4 pin 1 (the emitter) gets to ground. When you replace Q4 with the TIP120, you can handle the emitter leg in one of two ways. If you want, you can just connect it to the bottom pin of R39, which goes to ground. Or, you can connect it to where Q4's emitter pin originally went, and jumper across R39 with a piece of wire, which accomplishes the same thing.


Here's a picture of what I'm talking about. This is Chris' new MS2 which I'm finishing up. R39 hasn't been jumpered yet in this picture:


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Old 07-22-2008, 02:10 PM   #72
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Heh, I remember doing something tricky there...


http://abefm.smugmug.com/photos/233649946_KcyMu-O.jpg (full size)

but no... It was the same spot on the bar that had the trickyness, not the idle. Now I don't remember what it was all about....

But... what are you doing going to the top of that diode? I guess I should figure out which one that is, but... it seems odd, splitting off the signal like that.
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Old 07-22-2008, 02:48 PM   #73
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I give up on finishing mine; I'm apparently not able to grasp the concepts of the mods that need to be done.

I will pay someone to get this thing working. Can any of you guys help me out?
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Old 07-22-2008, 03:44 PM   #74
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What do you have done, what car is it for?
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Old 07-22-2008, 04:04 PM   #75
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AbeFM View Post
Heh, I remember doing something tricky there...
Yeah, Abe came up with a great mod to put the EBC FET into that location, and wire it up using the same holes/traces that the old VB912 used to use. Very slick, and saved a fair bit of mess.

Quote:
But... what are you doing going to the top of that diode? I guess I should figure out which one that is, but... it seems odd, splitting off the signal like that.
Actually, the blue wire is not hitting the diode that you think it's hitting. See the "S12" via just below the empty R57 location? There is a 1N4001 inserted into that hole, cathode-side down. The blue wire connects to the anode side of the diode, which is sticking straight up into the air. It's the flyback diode for the IAC circuit.

The angle of the picture makes it looks like it's touching the glass diode to the right, but it isn't.

Here's a better representation:


Last edited by Joe Perez; 07-22-2008 at 04:12 PM. Reason: Much higher quality photo
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Old 07-22-2008, 04:07 PM   #76
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Quote:
What do you have done, what car is it for?
I've done everything in the build manual.

It needs the Miata mods for a '99 standalone. Fan, idle, dual comparitor circuit to work with the stock 99 sensors.

For some reason I just can't get it done. I created the ignition circuit, and it looked like a mess, so I unsoldered it all.
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Old 07-22-2008, 04:27 PM   #77
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Joe!
Ah, that *really* clears things up. It wasn't making a lot of sense to me. Just when I though I had it all figured out which side of the diode has the stripe, too. :-)

One thing to be aware of, I've had traces (as some of them are quite small) burn out on the MS from flyback... So I've taken to doing as much of the flyback diode installing as I can in the boomslang. I imagine you could do it right on the back of the DB37 as well... Something to concider. Anything that's PWM, especially at low freq, is dumping a LOT of current through there.

Quote:
Originally Posted by pschmidt View Post
I've done everything in the build manual.

It needs the Miata mods for a '99 standalone. Fan, idle, dual comparitor circuit to work with the stock 99 sensors.

For some reason I just can't get it done. I created the ignition circuit, and it looked like a mess, so I unsoldered it all.
mine looked like a terrible mess. Don't feel bad.

Here's a place to start. First off, when you build the circuit, check it functionall - gound and unground the pin on the DB37 and see if the pin on the MS-II 40pin DIP notices the change.

And for development, try this:

(I took sensor in (x2), signal out (x2) and power and ground from the MS and put long wires on there. Then plug them into the board. The nice part is, no soldering, and you can change it as often as you want with little trouble)

You can get this board for <$10 at radio shack, sticky it inside your case (make sure it clears everything below) then build and rebuild your circuits till you're sure you have it right.

Also, remember, not all dual-op-amps have the same pin out. So it looks right, but won't work. Get the one that has the right pin out! That's likely your mistake, I've made it myself at work and it took me a long time to track down.

Don't stress, I'm sure you can handle this - you just gotta take it a step at a time.
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Old 07-22-2008, 04:33 PM   #78
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AbeFM View Post
One thing to be aware of, I've had traces (as some of them are quite small) burn out on the MS from flyback...
You know, that's not a bad idea. I'm not concerned about the side the diode goes on, so far as I know, S12 is a plane, not a trace. But the Q4 collector trace might be subject to damage. Think I may move that wire to the DB37.
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Old 07-25-2008, 12:59 AM   #79
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so i thought i was done with the build.. i wasnt doing the things that i didnt need to do.. it looks like i have alot still not done yet based on the pics you guys posted, posts 78 and 73... i didnt do step 52.. i dont have u3, u7, q12, q9, the row of resistors below r50... it seems like i am missing alot of stuff but i was carefull to only skip steps i thought i didnt have to do...
i want to make sure i have everything done main build wise before i start the miata mods... Should I just go back and do those steps that I thought I didn't have to?
thanks!

Last edited by Serper3; 07-25-2008 at 02:03 AM.
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Old 07-25-2008, 04:48 AM   #80
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doing some further comparisons between megamanuals complete board and the diagram of braineaks board... mine looks more similar to braineaks board than the megamanual board in terms of discreprencacies..
can i just add all the things that brain has on his diagram to my board and be ok?
once that is done.. (hopefully that will be very simple for me to do),
i think i am first going to tackle the tach input and spark output. for this.. i can follow braineaks post is this correct? i can follow it exactly? i was also wondering if you guys purchased jumpers elsewhere.. my kit doesnt come with different color jumpers like that. i only have a very limited amount of white wire... also.. what are those black things joining the resistors and stuff in the pics? is that for insulation? also buy at radioshack?

for the fans mod kit.. am i following brains pst 4 in his sticky? that half moon looking thing in that diagram... is that same as q6? i have extras of those from my build... it looks like i can orient it like in the picture.. then the middle lead goes to a 1k resistor? i am assuming on the other side of the board and a lead that goes to js0? for the bottom lead.. what kind of diode is that? should i have extras of those? but i add a diode and then run a lead to the banded end of d9? then i can run a lead from the bottom lead of the half moon looking thing to IAC-2a? what is that pink thing in the picture? is that not fan mod related? or is that diode and the half moon thing not connected?
i am really sorry guys my diagram reading skills are non existant but please bare with me!
thanks so much!
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