Can i just splice my conections in behind the OEM ecu conector ?
I would solder it not use the little blue snap T`s.

That way i could unplug MS set the conector aside and plug back in the oem ecu ?

This is for a Standalone install.

This is not a digram of excate wiring, just there to show you want im trying to say.

Blue dots are were they would be solderd.

 

Well, now here's a question that would have been answered with a little browsing through the stickies.

Short answer: Of course it will work. Why the hell wouldn't it?

 

I didnt see anything like this in the stickies but i may have missed it.

And i couldnt think of a reason why it wouldnt but with my luck there would be some random thing that would mess with it. Like a jumper built into the Oem ecu connector.

just dont wanna wire it twice.

 

I'm glad you asked. I don't want to bash the boomslang, but when I built mine it took a lot of effort, and after I did the wiring I had a lot of issues with pins breaking off of my yellow 64 pin plug. After almost half of the pins breaking and a couple of mods, I finally cut the whole plug out and soldered it to the harness like you're talking about. Never had any wiring issues since. I'm about to do a parallel install for my friend's NB, and I plan on just hardwiring. Less hardware, and less of a headache. Sure its a modification to the stock harness, but its really not that big of a pain to return to normal later.

 

Yea my plan is to leave the OEM plug in place also, when im running on MS i can just cover and tuck the oem plug away. Then if i ever need to run on the OEM ecu i just unplug ms and plug in the oem ecu.

Im just too damn cheap to make a harness, why spend 20-30$ when i can do it for free.

 

Had the same problems with those pins. Had to resolder some of the broken ones each time i took the wiring out.

The only question that i have if you want to "vamp" clamp it is, whats stopping the OEM ECU from conflicting with the MS? I would think you would have to disconnect those lines that are going to the stock ECU regardless of how they are connected.


Ignore the last part, i just reread that you are installing a standalone.

 

for a parallel install, soldering it straight to the harness and just cutting certain wires to the stock ecu is the same as a boomslang function-wise. This becomes slightly more work to correct if you ever needed to switch back, but still its just a matter of re-splicing four wires or so. That's what I'm gonna do on the NB. I'm not a fan of the boomslang, but I'm also not a fan of people thinking any aftermarket ecu should be straight plug in with no consideration without knowing how it works.

 

In my car, this is pretty much how it's done. The OEM harness had already been somewhat butchered as I had an EMU prior to this. Wires such as the injector and ignition lines were already cut, so I simply spliced those to the DB-37 pigtail and didn't bother re-connecting them to the OEM ECU connector. Those wires which were still intact mostly just tapped with vampire clips. Grounds were an exception- I cut these and made proper crimps, as the MS is very sensitive about its grounding. You wind up using surprisingly few of the factory wires to run a Megasquirt.

But no, there are no magic jumper lurking in the ECU connector waiting to foil your plans. Unplugged is the same as cut off as far as it's concerned.

Here's what mine looks like. You can see the remnants of the OEM harness and connector tucked up at the top.