hello everyone im alittle lost and was hoping someone can help me out. I have a ms1pnp in my mk1 eunos, (white and red body ecu)
I also have a MTX-L wideband installed on the car but not hooked up to the ECU yet,

I understand there are a few wires
black - ground
white - dimmer
red - power
brown - analog output 1
yellow - analog output 2



okay so I read up on DIYautotune is I need to connect the yellow wire to my o2 sensor input wire, and change the O2 sensor type to Innovate on tunerstudio.
so for connecting the wideband and get it working for the ECU, Is that just it?

MX5unleased.com said something about calibrating and hooking a laptop to the wideband controller and using software called LM programmer. do I need to do this for the MTX-l?

 

I just hooked mine up last week and all I did was do the initial calibration by turning it on and letting it heat up before screwing it into the o2 bung. After I just connected to the ecu and didn't do any other calibration beside selecting innovate as the wideband sensor in tunerstudio.

 

thank you konmo! just what I wanted to hear! less hassle lol

 

Yeah no problem. The only issue is my gauge reads about .3 -.5 higher than TS. I have it grounded same place as the stock ECU (which is now a MSPNP2). At the bolt with the green/black wire right behind the intake manifold on a 90 NA. Maybe I'll try grounding it to the ecu itself? I believe on of the pins on the serial connector will give me a ground.

 

Gauge and TS being off is somewhat common. If you do some searching you can find the values to use to get them to read closer together.

 

Are these voltages that you would put into the calibrate AFR table under tools.

 

Yes. I believe it is Custom Calibration or something along those lines in the dropdown menu.

I have had to do this with LC-1's, MXT-l, and AEM UEGO's.

 

Ah I see. Thanks, I'll do some searching around and see what I can find for those values. Should it be specific to the MTX-L?

 

No, it's specific to your car, on that particular day, on that particular lunar cycle. The offset you need can and will change on it's own. It changes as the car is running vs sitting on battery, so I used LM programmer to fix the output of the MTX-L in a few places (13.8, 14.7, 16.2) started the car, then fudged my calibration numbers till it was as right as it could be.

I was never able to make it quite right. I was close inside the 13.8-15.6ish range, but I would read crazy lean when aiming for 11.8-12.5 for boost, running way richer than indicated. If I tried to fix it so I could run closer to target while in rich AFR boost I'd be stupid lean for lean AFR cruising, which is the majority of my driving.

So I bought a digital wideband interface from reverent, fixed ever since.

 

Well it's much better after using some values that brain posted on another thread. There is only a +-.1 difference at most. I wonder though is the gauge reading the true value or is it MS? I'm assuming the the gauge is correct since it gets feedback directly from the o2 sensor. That's just my guess

 

Gauge reading is the correct reading.

 

Cool now I know. Thanks

 

just hooked mine up there was a difference in the valued but I then changed the power source and ground source to the ECU which has pretty much sorted the issue out.
I just connected the power on to the diagnostic port power wire (white /red) and earthed on the engine