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Old 11-30-2015, 11:41 AM   #21
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I verified that a led is hooked up to fan but even with that out put turned completely off the fan runs all the time. It was working when I got the car running again about a month ago (for the first time in 3 yrs) so I know that it can work.

I believe at this point it something in the miata maybe a fault with the ac or something that is telling it to be on all the time.
If all else fails I might wire the aled directly to fan replay and take the ac switch out of the fan loop.
Running out of ideas.

Last edited by 90 Turbo; 11-30-2015 at 02:03 PM.
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Old 11-30-2015, 11:53 AM   #22
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it's not the ac switch.

there's only two ways the cooling fan is going to run in stock form: 1. the thermoswitch 2. the a/c relay is triggered.

if you supect it's the a/c switch, then im assuming your a/c fan and a/c compressor is also running 100% of the time -- but if that were the case I'm assuming you'd have mentioned it.



here's what I'd do to narrow things down:

unplug the thermoswitch. It's possible it failed open.
unplug/replace the fan relay. It's possible it failed open.
Check TFA in the diagnostics box. With the car off, check to see if TFA is grounded. If it is, unplug the ECU and see if it goes away. If it does, it's your ECU. This could be a failed component on the microsquirt, or it could be bad jumpers, or bridge connections due to solder joints or something.



be smart about this.
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Old 11-30-2015, 02:01 PM   #23
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My ac is not currently working but I will get out a multi meter and see if its telling it to work.
The relay is fine I checked it with a multi meter and the relay is being told to open (small terminals have power telling the relay to open).

I truly appreciate the advice and I will get to work on it.



OP did yours ever get fixed?
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Old 11-30-2015, 03:50 PM   #24
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My MS is a Braineack built dynpnp, it has always done this regardless of the firmware updates and base maps I load on it.

When you said "If you have WLED going straight to 1L, I just don't see how this could be happening." Where you referring to this part of the board?

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Radiator fan always on - driver side-img_20151130_112930.jpg  
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Old 11-30-2015, 04:05 PM   #25
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no. those are for pull ups.

look left of BOOT.

see WLD and ALD. youre not using WLED for anything. I'm assuming ALED is used for fans -- is it going to 1R?
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Old 11-30-2015, 04:21 PM   #26
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It looks like its not going anywhere... could this be my problem?
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Old 11-30-2015, 07:30 PM   #27
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well is 1L going anywhere? from the connector board to mainboard?

early builds I used pa0 or pe1 or pt7 or pt6 and used the relays on the mainboard instead of aled or wled directly.

who was the original owner?


Sorry 1R is 90-93 and 1L is 94-95. Trying to deal with two people are once.

I see a wire going into it in that pic and going under the microsquirt module. relay 3 maybe?


definitely an early build since the a/c switch is not tied into the MS to control a/c idle up.
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Old 11-30-2015, 07:35 PM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Braineack View Post
well is 1R going anywhere? from the connector board to mainboard?
Nope, just what appears to be a cut wire. I did have a friend "help" me rewire the MS since it was originally for a 91-93 Miata. My friend did have a 93 fully megasquirted(first gen I think) and running. I figured he knew a lot more than I, so I didn't double check his work.
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Old 11-30-2015, 07:58 PM   #29
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see my ninja edit above.
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Old 11-30-2015, 08:16 PM   #30
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The original owner went by superstreet or something similar to that. He didn't last long on the forums since he didn't search and had thin skin. But he live in the same town as I and I bought his pieced together turbo kit.

1L is going to pa0.

My car doesn't have ac or power steering.
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Old 11-30-2015, 09:30 PM   #31
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yeah that wont work and why it's always running.

you need to move the output to ALD or WLD if unused.
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Old 11-30-2015, 10:04 PM   #32
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Thank you!

To be clear, I need to connect 1L to WLD correct?
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Old 11-30-2015, 10:05 PM   #33
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correct, then set it up accordingly in the on/off settings.
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Old 12-01-2015, 01:55 PM   #34
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I am glad you got it fixed Gregor,
I am still working on it.
I tested yesterday and I can turn the unjumped wled on and off but the ald aled is always ohm testing as ground when power is on to the diypnp.
Unpluging the ecu does shut off the fan.

I have unplugged the thermostat on the front water neck and plugged it in.

Would it have anything to do with Power steering plug or ac plug not being attached?
Could changing the resistor for the Vvt circuit to 5v effect anything? I did that around the time this started happening.
Cant pin point when it started I could have not noticed for while but I know it was working a month ago.


Would anyone agree moving the R1 jumper from ALD to WLD might fix the issue?
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Old 12-01-2015, 03:17 PM   #35
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is your DIYPNP controlling VVT? Like on/off?
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Old 12-01-2015, 03:32 PM   #36
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No diypnp is not controlling vvt.
Have vvtunner. There was a signal wire to the diypnp for a while but I had interference in diypnp. So I changed the resistor to 5v circuit as detailed in vvtunner instructions. Still was interference so I changed power sources for vvtunner.
Now they are not connected to each other at all. 1.6 Cas is running diypnp. Cam and crank sensor running vvtunner.
I will get the exact change when I get back to real computer on phone now.
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Old 12-01-2015, 03:53 PM   #37
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Here are changes made to diypnp:

VVTuner

If you have swapped in a VVT motor from a '01-'05 Miata and wire the sensors directly to the DIYPNP, sharing them with the VVTuner (instead of using pass through mode), connect the R3 resistor in the 5 volt position instead of the 12 volt. Using the 12 volt may cause sync problems.
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Old 12-01-2015, 03:55 PM   #38
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why do you have a jumper on R1 and/or R2?
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Old 12-01-2015, 03:59 PM   #39
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I have a wire connecting ald to 1r in the ecu harness. Sorry not r1 but is connected to 1r. Wow this can get confusing. Brain I appreciate your help Sir.
You seem to be helping everyone on here. I hope you know how much it really is helping us lost newbs.
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Old 12-01-2015, 04:04 PM   #40
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okay, yeah try moving 1R from ALD to WLD and then make sure to copy those settings over (assuming WLD is free)
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