Still learning about this tuning thing and interested to see what spark maps others are running. Currently loaded into my car is a pretty scary table that'll need some scaling down for warmer weather, but damn if the car doesn't pull really hard to redline!

I searched but didn't really see a collective thread full of maps so I humbly ask to start one.

Think this is what I currently run:



That table doesn't scare me quite as much once I get the fuel squared away since I've finally got an intercooler installed on the car along with meth injection, but I know its still pushing the limits here.

Thanks!

 

For me:

From left to right, timing increases, or goes lower to higher
From bottom to top, timing decreases, or goes from higher to lower

Ill try and snag a screen shot of my map when i get onto the laptop tomorrow.

 

Couple of funky things I see:
-183kpa, from 2900-4000 it goes 20-24-20. Shouldn't jump or spike like that. Smooth out the table so that the timing rises and falls smoothly. The only times you should deviate from this is where your dyno numbers say otherwise - i.e. MBT in each cell.

-183kpa, 4000-5200, it goes 20-18-18
-212kpa, 4000-5200, it goes 16-16-17

You go down in timing at 183k, but up at 212. Same thing - smooth it all out.

Do you have a pair of det cans? Failsafes for the meth system?

 

Thanks for the advice. Got to looking at the table I posted and something didn't look right, so I pulled it directly out of the controller and came up with this.



I'm having one hell of a time with this setup.



(Why did the spark angle shoot down to 9* @ 141kpa when it was 32.9* @ 139kpa??)

Nothing I seem to do will keep the belt from slipping and its caused a huge mess under the hood from all the rubber dust. I think Moss specs a 517 belt and I've managed to barely get a 514 to fit but does no good. I think the tensioner upgrade from tdr fixes that issue a little on the 4 rib belt, but its 200$ I'm not spending and Andy already bought one. Spent 3 hours in an attempt to keep the belt on the pulley, failed and returned it.

My duty cycles are way high which seems to point to a weak fuel pump, on the list of things to replace before turbo. Currently no failsafe for meth injection. I've read several posts in various threads where you mentioned the only sure fire way was a flow sensor and they're not cheap. I'm thinking in the future about the best bet is run a liquid level along with a pressure switch to force megasquirt into a conservative timing table if the fluid level is low and no pressure exists.

The only positive thing I can say about this is at least intake temps aren't 100* higher like they used to be non-intercooled.

Thanks again for your input, its greatly appreciated!

 

Here's mine running on an MP62 (intercooled) at peaking at 7.5psi, 99RON UK pump fuel and AFRs at WOT are 12:1...


You're running a **** load more timing than me at similar boost levels, I'd hate to see your meth injector fail with those figures.
Another thing I see from your datalog is that during peak torque ~4krpm you are running quite lean at what looks like AFRs of high 13's throughout the 2-6krpm area. Can you run this lean on a meth set-up and be safe as your AFRs only richen up slightly towards 7krpm?

Belt slip is a PITA, more so on 4-rib set-ups. I think your options are limited with the 4-rib JRSC set-up if you can't get the TDR tensioner working well. I have some belt slip towards high RPMs on my 6-rib MP62 but that's due to my current manual tensioner set-up. I plan on fabricating a new one in the next week or two.

 

I'm at work right now but I'll post my current spark table when I get back home.

Speaking of belt slip - try to dial in the TDR tensioner. It was a major pain for me but I promise it’s worth the struggle.

Old favorite thread - > https://www.miataturbo.net/forum/t18648/

 

So I was about to post a screen shot of the table that Paul made that both him and I use. Then I looked at what you posted and that's exactly it. You must have gotten it from him.

 

 

don't run this table, but notice the curve:

 

 

This is my current spark table. Works great on MY car, even with a lousy JR IC.

 

I <3 timely threads...

 

No kidding I've been wondering about this.

I think mine is too agressive in the 100 KPa region. I'm on the previous owners map.

If you were going to use a 1.6L ignition map in a 1.8L would you need to change anything?

I'll take critiques of my map!

 

Elesjuan, nice thread.

I would suggest you read this one started by SamNavy (if you haven't done so yet) to find a lot of maps too: https://www.miataturbo.net/forum/t18648/

Interesting read.

 

Braineack, what the reasoning behind the 17deg 20kpa row? Banging and popping on overrun?

 

Anyone happening to have to run on 91 octane fuel? I had 93 everywhere in North Carilona, not so much here in Utah

I've taken a bunch of timing out of the reg map thet DIY has, just wondering if someone else has to daily drive with 91

 

I have 91/92 here in Seattle. DO NOT TAKE ANY MORE TIMING OUT OF THE DIY MAP. It is already INSANELY conservative.

 

As a test, I retarded 10-12 degrees across the 20kpa row (over run) and the engine seems to enter and come out of overrun really smoothly now. I've not quite gone to the extremes of Braineacks 17deg BTDC figures but it's been a further improvement on my engines smoothness. I'm still guessing that retarding too much at this overrun pressure would just serve to create exhaust pops and bangs on overrun. (and damage my CAT)

 

I put my timing in that row to 10Deg BTDC once for just that effect, (pops and bangs), never happened though :(

 

Not MS map but worth to contribute: