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Table Switching w/ SPST Switch on MS3ProPNP

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Old 01-30-2023, 12:45 PM
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Default Table Switching w/ SPST Switch on MS3ProPNP

Hey all, I've been trying to figure this out for a couple weeks now, but haven't really gotten anywhere. My tune is attached.

I'm looking to be able to have a hardware switch that enables and disables launch control & flat foot shifting, and another switch that switches between fuel & spark tables 1 and 3. Right now I'm just worried about table switching, I'll worry about launch control later.

I have a regular 2 wire SPST toggle switch, with one wire going to Pin O, which according to the folks at DIYAutoTune is Digital Switched 12V inside TunerStudio, and the other wire w/ a ring terminal going to a bolt by the ECU for ground.
Amazon Amazon

Based on the documentation I've read, once there is a ground signal read from that pin, it should switch. And when that connection is broken and left floating, it should switch back. Is this correct? This is from the MSPNP Pro manual on DiyAutoTune's website.

Table switching:
Table switching for fuel and/or spark tables can be enabled in the Table Choices menu and using an unused Digital Switched In or Digital Frequency In pin. Set the switch source to Hardware for the table you wish to switch, and the input pin to the pin you are using for the switch. This will allow you to use the table switching on the option connector. The alternate table(s) will become active when the selected pin is connected to ground. You can use this to have a second fuel or ignition table for race gas or when a nitrous system is active. Note that the tables this will switch to are called VE Table 3 and Ignition Table 3 so these are the tables you'll tune for use when Table Switching is activated. Table 2 is used for other functions such as multiple load input.

I guess I'm just looking for someone whos done something similar, and how they wired their switch up. Is there any way to tell inside of TunerStudio that the tables have been swapped? I can't go out and test my car on the road as it's stored in the garage for winter, and the roads are full of salt. Maybe it is working, but I have no way of telling.
Attached Thumbnails Table Switching w/ SPST Switch on MS3ProPNP-2023-01-30-11_34_21-table-switch_dual-fuel.png   Table Switching w/ SPST Switch on MS3ProPNP-2023-01-30-11_44_04-amazon.com_-gardner-bender-gsw-18-heavy-duty-electrical-toggle-switch-spst-.png  
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Old 01-30-2023, 04:46 PM
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Following because I wanted to do something very similar for different boost levels.
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Old 01-30-2023, 11:37 PM
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Originally Posted by asalinas
Following because I wanted to do something very similar for different boost levels.
Would be cool for that too. Maybe I'll have to add a third switch lol
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Old 01-31-2023, 06:37 AM
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Your thinking is correct. I’ve found they don’t work until the engine is running, not sure why, but it makes testing frustrating. I put my target boost at low tps/rpm even though I’ll never get there, so if you put a gauge on for target boost, it’ll display at idle or cruise.

you can also do these functions without involving the ecu, but simply interrupting the signals with a switch. It’s more crude, but you can interrupt boost or clutch switch for LC. Can’t do table switch though.

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Old 01-31-2023, 07:52 AM
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For boost levels, aidandj's build thread shows how he used a blend curve and a multi-pole switch with resistors to have around 5 settings.

I use a switch to engage Paddock speed limit, to be used for speed limiting "valet" set-up. Same Idea. I think mine is the "TableSwitch" input. Once you have the switch, you can have different tunes (usually for testing purposes) that utilize the TableSwitch input for different functions. For instance, I used it for A-B testing different AFR and Timing settings when trying to optimize cruise gas mileage.

With loops, you can also have things like CLT table switch. I run a different AFR target table and Ignition table at lower CLT temps (when warm, go to lean cruise settings).

For your specific example of Switching Launch and FFS, just add the switch into the clutch wire feeding the ECU. However, if your settings are correct, those functions do not need an ON-OFF switch. If you don't punch the throttle while the clutch pedal is down, you will not go into launch mode. If you do not keep throttle to the floor, above you set point RPM, then FFS will not engage. Simple as that, There when you need it, not there when you don't use it.

My settings:




EDIT: ("Launch In" is the switch that is made when clutch pedal is at the top of the stroke. It is set up from MSLabs for their ECU's)

DNM
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Old 02-01-2023, 12:35 PM
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Originally Posted by curly
Your thinking is correct. I’ve found they don’t work until the engine is running, not sure why, but it makes testing frustrating. I put my target boost at low tps/rpm even though I’ll never get there, so if you put a gauge on for target boost, it’ll display at idle or cruise.

you can also do these functions without involving the ecu, but simply interrupting the signals with a switch. It’s more crude, but you can interrupt boost or clutch switch for LC. Can’t do table switch though.
Good to know I was doing this all correctly. Needing the engine to run certainly makes it a tad more annoying to test, but I suppose I could fire 'er up this weekend when the weather is supposed to be a couple degrees above freezing lol.

Thanks Curly.

Originally Posted by DNMakinson
For boost levels, aidandj's build thread shows how he used a blend curve and a multi-pole switch with resistors to have around 5 settings.

I use a switch to engage Paddock speed limit, to be used for speed limiting "valet" set-up. Same Idea. I think mine is the "TableSwitch" input. Once you have the switch, you can have different tunes (usually for testing purposes) that utilize the TableSwitch input for different functions. For instance, I used it for A-B testing different AFR and Timing settings when trying to optimize cruise gas mileage.

With loops, you can also have things like CLT table switch. I run a different AFR target table and Ignition table at lower CLT temps (when warm, go to lean cruise settings).

For your specific example of Switching Launch and FFS, just add the switch into the clutch wire feeding the ECU. However, if your settings are correct, those functions do not need an ON-OFF switch. If you don't punch the throttle while the clutch pedal is down, you will not go into launch mode. If you do not keep throttle to the floor, above you set point RPM, then FFS will not engage. Simple as that, There when you need it, not there when you don't use it.

My settings:


EDIT: ("Launch In" is the switch that is made when clutch pedal is at the top of the stroke. It is set up from MSLabs for their ECU's)

DNM
Awesome info here, thanks a ton for including an image as well. Maybe I'll just leave the 2nd switch out and do it purely off proper settings. But something about having some dip switches hidden in my center console feels so.. cool. Ha! Interesting idea for a "valet" mode as well. Might have to play around with that.

Both of you rock, can't thank ya enough.
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