Well finally finished the install. Took me 3 days of a 3-4 hours a day but I took my time and did it right. Shrouding on all my wires, tested with and without nozzle, and tested my pressure switch with a regulator set to 6psi on a air compressor. Mounted it in the bumper near the passenger side wheel well. Pics coming soon....


Highlights that only us 90-93 Canadians get to enjoy:

- Empty slot in the fuse holder where the airbag fuse goes (CAN's didn't get an air bag back in the 90-93 models)- great for the direct battery connection.

- 4 litre washer bottle, so I'll probably last between fill ups. I boosted pretty hard today when I could, and my water level only dropped .5 inch at the top level of the washer bottle.

Bonus!

Initial impressions:

PROS:

AWESOME- no tuning yet, but I filled up with 91 octane Shell. I used to get some silent knock between 4k-5k with Ultra 94 when I was in 3rd gear and holding between those rpm ranges around a on ramp corner. No more even with the lower octane 91!

-My boost seems to come quicker- not sure if this is a placebo effect

-My intake temp guage looks like the E-cool video now....when I hit my 10-11psi my intake temps lower. I know, I know- the thermocouple is getting saturated, but it's still cool to watch (and it lets me know the system is working). If E-cool can do it, so can I! I used to run 50 degrees above ambient with the RX-7 intercooler, now I'm running only 10-20degrees above, unless I'm city driving.

- Can't hear the pump turn on, but this can be bad too. I'll be hooking up an LED soon.

Cons:

-Can't hear the pump run (pro and con)
-Added about 12 lbs with a full washer bottle to my car (woopie)
-Mounting the Pressure switch sucks- unique shape is PITA to find a place to put it.

 

rember the pressure switch is not designed to be bolted in place and can be damaged if it is hard mounted.

 

I have it zip tied to the bracket that holds the overflow rad hose going to the overflow tank.

LED wiring I'm having trouble. I wired the LED to the "NO" part of the pressure switch with a resister and wired the flat side of the LED to ground. When the water injection is deactivated (not in boost yet) the LED is on, but when I go into boost and the pressure switch activates, my LED goes out. I figured if I wire the LED to the NC on the pressure switch it would do the opposite - turn the LED on when the pressure switch activates but I doesn't....it doesn't turn on at all. Any suggestions?

 

ah the same as i have it just throwing that out there for those kiddies who dont read all the warnings on there kits good times also replacements can be had on ebay for 15 or so bucks if the need arises

 

These pressure switches are a hell of a lot more durable than the $15 all plastic variety. I do agree though....they are kind of a pain to mount.

 

Cool i had no idea they had changed to a different style last i seen they had the same plasticy ones i had. fWIW the ones i got off ebay where straight thru design so a new vaccum port is unnesscessary very usefull i have yet to try them though.

 

Pictures....

 

is that one of those built in nozzle deals how do you like it? I have been thinking about using that for my second nozzle. Very clean install are you having issues with pump starvation, being mounted upfront as it is?

 

No prob with pump starvation...haven't really run my bottle too low either. The fittings your looking at in my intake piping are a 90deg npt fitting with the brass checkvalve screwed right in....works awesome and keeps things clean.