The washers to space the brace off is a brilliant idea. I am going to have to recommend that to another customer whose mid pipe is close. Between testing on 2 different NA's and with different hangers it is hard to get something that clears everything perfectly every time.

 

Yeah I put clamps on most of the hangers but ran out of clamps. I do not have one on the mid pipe and the first mount pre muffler. I am going to add those tonight and pick up some washers to space out the chassis brace. I think that will be more than sufficient.

Also, I want to encourage if anyone has a renmental tow hook or and aftermarket on for the most part, it will need to be run on the left side. The reason being is the muffler will either rub on the stock tow hook tab or it will rub on the aftermarket tow hook. The two must be swapped and it runs perfect. So this is less of a fitment issue unless you run two stock hooks. If that is the case you will need to remove the right stock tow hook and hammer the tab flat.


Here is a picture of the tab on the stock hook. Clearence looks ok but this is me pushing the muffler away to get a good picture.



here is a picture where the supplied hanger rubs and here is how I modified it. Super simple modification. It then rubbed on the red hook so that is why I encourage swapping the stock hanger with the red hanger.







I know this is going to confuse the hell out of someone because I suck at putting this in words but hopefully the picks help y'all understand.

 

I honestly did not even think of testing fitment with non stock tow hooks.

 

Here are some pics of how I routed the hotside charge pipes. Super easy with out AC and PS also had abe motif my water inlet while lars was slaving away at developing the kit. I also rerouted the hose from the heater core back to the inlet. Holy **** coolant temps are down. Not sure if it is from the reroute, or not having a water cooled turbo or both. Totally worth it.

All I did to use the FM pipes was cut off part of the bend that would be at the center of the manifold and added a 90* 2 inch which then goes to a adapter coupler. Easy peezy.

 

Also to add oil temps have been lower than when I had the 2560. Which is very weird to me. Not sure why that is. I am running t6 as usual and still using the same oil cooler setup. Oh well Ill take it

 

Just got back from doing some more tuning. I am very impressed with how well the turbo is spoiling just off the wastegate allow. I have a good amount of preload and I am getting around 11psi with a small amount of creep. I plan to run this turbo up towards 14psi so I am very happy with the porting and the preload on the wastegate actuator.

 

I'm sorry your turbo is spoiling :( I hope he gives you a refund.

 

 

This is why I can't get on Miata turbo from my phone anymore.

 

Supposed to keep it in the fridge until you are ready to install

 

How close is the next Texas kit to being ready?

Also, does Oil Line kit come with everything I need for a 99? Or do I need to get a sandwich plate or T-fitting or sum ting?

 

I have to finish 1 more NA setup. Then I get to do your mid pipe. I should be pushing my 99 into the garage sometime next week to get going on the NB setups.

Oil line kit comes with everything you need except for a drill bit and tap for the oil pan. It includes a T-fitting to screw into where the oil pressure sender goes, oil line from there to the turbo, all the fittings on the turbo you need, then an oil drain line and fitting for the oil pan.

 

Everything that comes in the oil line kit.


1.6 Flanges are in. Also got a purge block.

 

Everything is looking so good, seriously can't wait to purchase mine

 

That 1.6 doe. Great progess!

 

So little update. I got boost at 7psi flat. However my MAC boost solenoid operates a little weird I guess. I ended up with

P 59
I 144
D 0

It holds a 14 psi with very little overshoot. And will slightly ossilate up top I'm 5th gear with my foot to the floor below 3500rpm. I try adding some D but no dice. I'm wondering if I might be able to up the preload on the wastegate to compensate for that large boost difference from 7-14psi. Thoughts?

 

I run like 4psi wastegate and 13psi EBC. It works pretty well.

 

Do you get any up top oscillating in 5th digging out of 3200-3500 rpms?

 

Setup 4 is going out today. This weekend the GF is out of town, and my only plans are working in the garage. I should hopefully get setups 5 and 6 done. Then will come the 2 NB setups.

 

I finally had some free time to start with the installation on my 2000. Not wanting to clutter up this thread so I'll just throw up some pictures/comments to show clearances.

All in all, the install of the kit itself went pretty smooth. I opted to install manifold then the turbo without the outlet flange then the outlet flange itself because I like to torque bolts whenever possible. Replacing the V-Band flange bolts with M8X1.25 - 20mm SHCS makes it much easier to get wrenches on things.



The downpipe has plenty of clearance all over and the V-Band helps move it a bit to even out the clearance on both sides.






The exhaust outlet is centered exactly and other than the muffler having a definite 'droop' on the left side fits fine. I think the only solution for the droop would be to go with a smaller muffler. This thin is massive/heavy. It's not as pronounced as the picture shows it but it is noticeable.





Obviously it's hard to fit a 3" pipe down a Miata and miss everything in it's way. The only spot I can see where it may be a problem is along one of the braces by the differential. I put hose clamps on all the hangers but maybe will need to use a BFH to help 'clear' things a bit more.



I'd hoped to be able to use the TDR intercooler off my MP62 by making a new charge pipe but with the waste gate position I'm not sure if I'll be able to clock the unit in the best position. I may opt to go with the traditional intercooler setup.

Still not finished with oil lines + boost control blah blah blah so will end this post.