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I finally had some free time to start with the installation on my 2000. Not wanting to clutter up this thread so I'll just throw up some pictures/comments to show clearances.
All in all, the install of the kit itself went pretty smooth. I opted to install manifold then the turbo without the outlet flange then the outlet flange itself because I like to torque bolts whenever possible. Replacing the V-Band flange bolts with M8X1.25 - 20mm SHCS makes it much easier to get wrenches on things.
The downpipe has plenty of clearance all over and the V-Band helps move it a bit to even out the clearance on both sides.
The exhaust outlet is centered exactly and other than the muffler having a definite 'droop' on the left side fits fine. I think the only solution for the droop would be to go with a smaller muffler. This thin is massive/heavy. It's not as pronounced as the picture shows it but it is noticeable.
Obviously it's hard to fit a 3" pipe down a Miata and miss everything in it's way. The only spot I can see where it may be a problem is along one of the braces by the differential. I put hose clamps on all the hangers but maybe will need to use a BFH to help 'clear' things a bit more.
I'd hoped to be able to use the TDR intercooler off my MP62 by making a new charge pipe but with the waste gate position I'm not sure if I'll be able to clock the unit in the best position. I may opt to go with the traditional intercooler setup.
Still not finished with oil lines + boost control blah blah blah so will end this post.
Thanks for the feedback. I am going to see how the next 2 NB's I am about to build hang and decide on what to do with the hang. I am now looking into 2 smaller mufflers that I might get to try and compare exhaust sound to.
I mostly finished up the last 2 NA exhausts over the weekend. Have one more O2 bung to weld into one of them, but other then that they are good to go. I broke another saw blade so that stopped me from continuing on the NB exhausts. Will be ordering some more tomorrow and get to work on finishing the NB exhausts. Hopefully I get those out next week.
You can clock that turbo pretty much any direction you want. Check previous post and you will see how I clocked mine. The wastegate actuator has a built in flange to seal the turbo so you can rotate the compressor.
I might have figured out a way to add a 4th hanger to the NB axle back. I need to take some measurements tomorrow and fab something up. If so the last 2 NB's will get it added on.
You can clock that turbo pretty much any direction you want. Check previous post and you will see how I clocked mine. The wastegate actuator has a built in flange to seal the turbo so you can rotate the compressor.
Yes, I know how to clock it. The ideal location for the outlet, using the TDR intercooler is straight up. Then I could actually buy a 1pc pipe from TDR (maybe add a coupler for the right length). Unfortunately, the actuator needs to occupy that spot on this turbo. If I rotate the compressor more to the left then the outlet is too close to the manifold.
I might be able to fab a different bracket and move the actuator to the left (or buy a flat bracket on ebay instead of the stock angled one) but it might be easier to just go to a different intercooler (Fab9) and sell the TDR setup. There's plenty of SC people looking as it will work with both MP62 and MP45 setups and I have all the piping.
But thanks for the help.
Originally Posted by shuiend
I might have figured out a way to add a 4th hanger to the NB axle back. I need to take some measurements tomorrow and fab something up. If so the last 2 NB's will get it added on.
It'd be nice to have the 4th hanger but that won't solve the droop. To do that, the muffler would need to go up on the left end while leaving the midpipe connection in the same spot. That'd require a couple short elbows to kick the end up.
I wonder if you could just run a 90º bent out of 1ft pipe. Take a look at silicone intakes.com they make good quality affordable couplers and bends. Im not sure which TDR intercooler version you have but it seems do able with very little work involved. TBH Id imagine there is less work involved to make the TDR work than if you purchased a different intercooler kit.
It'd be nice to have the 4th hanger but that won't solve the droop. To do that, the muffler would need to go up on the left end while leaving the midpipe connection in the same spot. That'd require a couple short elbows to kick the end up.
For yours it is to late to fix the droop. On the 2 NB's I have still do do I should be able to fix it there. Since I have not built the mid pipes yet, I can adjust and fix it there.
From looking there seems to be 2 10mm bolts that hold on the heat shield below the trunk space. I think I can make a similar mount to what I have on the NA's to bolt onto those 2 bolts and have a hanger come down.
I wonder if you could just run a 90º bent out of 1ft pipe. Take a look at silicone intakes.com they make good quality affordable couplers and bends. Im not sure which TDR intercooler version you have but it seems do able with very little work involved. TBH Id imagine there is less work involved to make the TDR work than if you purchased a different intercooler kit.
Not my car but exactly the setup I have on my car now (or had, no longer have the SC...). Intercooler is still installed as I pulled the SC and sold it. 99-04 Intercooler Kit for the BRP MP62 Supercharger
TDR makes piping to go from the same intercooler to the FMII or Voodoo setups so other then position front/back of the turbo (FM turbos are in the center of the manifold) would get me there. 99-04 Intercooler Kit for the FM II and Voodoo Turbos
Here is how I have my turbo clocked on my 97. I have not tried clocking it this way on a NB, but I assume it would be close. Is there no way to get the TDR pipe to line up with how I point it?
You can buy stainless steel v-band adapters from turbosmart for welding to mild. Ebay also has a similar flange mount bov with silicone coupler adapters, but that's super jank.
It looks like the exhaust tip is too high. If it was lowered some then the muffler would be more level. Loosen the v-band and rotate the whole thing and everything might fit better.
It looks like the exhaust tip is too high. If it was lowered some then the muffler would be more level. Loosen the v-band and rotate the whole thing and everything might fit better.
Actually, the picture was just hangers with the clamp snug. I guess I need longer hangers. Working on it.
So a little update. I built some det cans and last night went and tuned. I never took the car really into the knock zone but I am very impressed with the power with this table. Hopefully this spark map gets me to 250wtq. I wont know till I get some dyno time. My local car club is having a dyno day later this summer.
So a little update. I built some det cans and last night went and tuned. I never took the car really into the knock zone but I am very impressed with the power with this table. Hopefully this spark map gets me to 250wtq. I wont know till I get some dyno time. My local car club is having a dyno day later this summer.
Take a good 4th gear pull and log it. Do it on flat level ground. Then load it into VirtualDyno and lets see what it says you are at.
I'm not opposed to a smaller muffler if you have it already Larsy.
I have not ordered any smaller mufflers yet. Right now I am waiting on new saw blades to come in to finish your mid pipe. I am also going to be testing adding a 4th hanger and your setup will be the first to use it.
I totally would have done a 4th gear pull today, but sadly my MAC EBC Solenoid took a ****. I just tried cleaning it cause it looked kinda dirty but not really. Im thinking when I get the new one I need to relocate it further away from the turbo.
So while I wait for a new one. I went ahead and reported my waste gate. I was getting just a tad bit of creep so lets see if this finishes it off for good.
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