EPIC nuts/studs loosening thread (reposting stupid stuff without reading = warning) - Page 50 - Miata Turbo Forum - Boost cars, acquire cats.

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Old 02-18-2010, 11:13 PM   #981
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chance91 View Post
I have one set I could sell you if you haven't bored out the original holes in your mani.. That is, if you can drill/tap to 3/8ths on the turbo-mani and 5/16ths on the DP.
Thanks for the offer, but I'm on the two step program right now:
Step 1: Try new M10x1.5 studs + resbond + locking nuts.
Step 2: E-mail Tim.
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Old 02-19-2010, 12:32 PM   #982
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Originally Posted by orion4096 View Post
Thanks for the offer, but I'm on the two step program right now:
Step 1: Try new M10x1.5 studs + resbond + locking nuts.
Step 2: E-mail Tim.
I changed my mind and your PM box is full. I'd like a set of the manifold bolts.
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Old 02-19-2010, 05:37 PM   #983
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ok. I'll dig them out. Do you want me to drill them for lockwire or leave them bare? is 1/16th ok for lock wire or do you want a different size if so? 3/8ths x 24 thread is ok, correct?
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Old 03-17-2010, 09:04 PM   #984
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We've found a bit of luck with the inconel studs we had made by a first class machine shop. Also, putting a locking screw on each stud seems to resist volcanic violence.

We can offer the service on virtually any manifold.

Corky
hate loose nuts
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Old 03-17-2010, 09:09 PM   #985
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Locking screw...?
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Old 03-18-2010, 08:00 PM   #986
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Maybe a setscrew to stop the nut or stud turning?
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Old 03-18-2010, 08:04 PM   #987
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Had a number of guesses myself. But, what good is a guess when the man who knows is there for the asking?
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Old 03-18-2010, 08:28 PM   #988
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Originally Posted by spoolin2bars View Post
tighten them up, tack weld at the flange. relieves the stress from the studs. they stay tight after that. you can still remove the turbo later if needed by breaking the spot welds. you don't have to tack all the way around either. just the top and maybe 1 or 2 on the side (vertical) front facing side, so you can easily remove them if needed. spookyfish tacked the bolts to the flange, but i think if the bolt breaks it won't stop the problem, although i don't think he has had any problems.
just wanted to report that i'm 7 trackday's in and all is good. like i said, now that the upper left bolt (the one exposed to exhaust gasses) has been tacked. the other 3 bolts haven't budged at all.
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Old 03-18-2010, 08:43 PM   #989
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So vagaxt and spoolin have had good success by relieving the weight and stress of the turbo/dp from the studs.
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Old 03-18-2010, 09:01 PM   #990
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Corky Bell View Post
We've found a bit of luck with the inconel studs we had made by a first class machine shop. Also, putting a locking screw on each stud seems to resist volcanic violence.

We can offer the service on virtually any manifold.

Corky
hate loose nuts
I would say the next logical step is to tweak the manifold's casting tool to add more meat in the area where each stud pokes into the exhaust stream, yeah? And then machine blind holes instead of thru-holes.

This approach might provide enough thermal isolation to eliminate the need for megabuck inco hardware...

But this is all a guess, having never seen the manifold. Maybe something is making this approach unworkable?
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Old 03-20-2010, 01:52 AM   #991
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I don't think extra meat in the manifold will matter like you think. I have my uuber hardware in the stream now, and I trust it more than I do the iron the manifold is made out of.

As for the standard stuff, it would just prolong the amount of time it takes for the studs to stretch, but it wouldn't prevent it, unless you aren't on the track long enough for it to happen. In which case it may work. But doing so would only be a guess.
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Old 03-20-2010, 12:42 PM   #992
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chance91 View Post
I don't think extra meat in the manifold will matter like you think. I have my uuber hardware in the stream now, and I trust it more than I do the iron the manifold is made out of.

As for the standard stuff, it would just prolong the amount of time it takes for the studs to stretch, but it wouldn't prevent it, unless you aren't on the track long enough for it to happen. In which case it may work. But doing so would only be a guess.
you don't "think" , but i "know" from experience. and it's not "extra" meat that helps, it's "any" that makes a difference. i'm lucky in that my manifold casting only had 1 bolt exposed to the exhaust gasses inside. others have 2 or 3, and all of them stretch and break.

and your right, it may only "prolong" the amount of time it takes for the stud or bolt to break, but there's no need to guess, it absolutely will prolong the time before it breaks. my other 3 bolts that are not exposed to exhaust gas have been on there since 2003, for over 60k turbocharged miles and over 30 trackdays. (some of them 2.9-3.5mi. tracks, lots of wot time) so while it's possible that they will break at some point, i haven't found that limit yet.

i can't tell you how happy i am that i didn't spend 4k for a new turbo setup, or even $125 for uber bolts. my buddy threw on a weld that took literally 20sec. and $0 dollars. and i can still remove the turbo easily when the time comes.

Last edited by spoolin2bars; 03-20-2010 at 12:47 PM. Reason: spelling
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Old 03-20-2010, 02:48 PM   #993
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Spoolin', any pics? of the welding...
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Old 03-21-2010, 12:27 AM   #994
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here's one i took back when i had it done. i can take a daytime pic if you want. (that's a shitty phone pic) but i think you get the idea. don't know what i'd do if say the lower right bolt was messed up or exposed to the exhaust gasses. i guess i could've had the mani. welded to the turbo off the car or something. but that would've been a bigger pita. like i said, i'm lucky it was just the one easiest to get to bolt that was breaking.

i actually just had the top left bolt hole tacked shut. no need to have a bolt there if it's welded.

msr-h2009pics011.jpg
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Old 03-21-2010, 11:25 AM   #995
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Shameless plug. There's a tubular absurdflow manifold that'll directly replace the BEGI piece and has none of the flange holes into the "steam". Through bolts are possible too. Pic below of the first and only (hit refresh or F5 if no pic shows). It's NOT a log mani damnit.

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Old 03-21-2010, 02:38 PM   #996
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Quote:
Originally Posted by spoolin2bars View Post
you don't "think" , but i "know" from experience. and it's not "extra" meat that helps, it's "any" that makes a difference. i'm lucky in that my manifold casting only had 1 bolt exposed to the exhaust gasses inside. others have 2 or 3, and all of them stretch and break.

and your right, it may only "prolong" the amount of time it takes for the stud or bolt to break, but there's no need to guess, it absolutely will prolong the time before it breaks. my other 3 bolts that are not exposed to exhaust gas have been on there since 2003, for over 60k turbocharged miles and over 30 trackdays. (some of them 2.9-3.5mi. tracks, lots of wot time) so while it's possible that they will break at some point, i haven't found that limit yet.

i can't tell you how happy i am that i didn't spend 4k for a new turbo setup, or even $125 for uber bolts. my buddy threw on a weld that took literally 20sec. and $0 dollars. and i can still remove the turbo easily when the time comes.
You had the guy weld additional material over the bolt holes, is that what your saying? From the inside? That's what I was mentioning, and although its a fine Idea, I'm not putting my stock in it.

I see your welding trick is working for you, but you must admit it isn't the most practical solution for everyone. Wanting to switch turbo's, or come time for rebuild, it could be a bit of a nuisance. I myself don't take joy in grinding off welds, especially on a 1000 dollar piece.

But, Its tough to knock it too much if it works. However, I still prefer my solution. Lucky for you, I'm quite alone on that one.
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Old 03-21-2010, 04:41 PM   #997
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Nice Tim.

There I fixed it, 20 pages ago:
https://www.miataturbo.net/forum/t35874-33/#post449766

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Old 03-22-2010, 04:04 AM   #998
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TurboTim View Post
Shameless plug. There's a tubular absurdflow manifold that'll directly replace the BEGI piece and has none of the flange holes into the "steam". Through bolts are possible too. Pic below of the first and only (hit refresh or F5 if no pic shows). It's NOT a log mani damnit.

Nice ^^^^^^ yeah, i bet those studs/bolts would never have a problem at the track. as long as they're decent quality (but not $125 bolts) they would probably last forever. is it that the cast mani. can't be made like that at the flange/throat area? how much would a manifold like that cost tim?

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You had the guy weld additional material over the bolt holes, is that what your saying? From the inside? That's what I was mentioning, and although its a fine Idea, I'm not putting my stock in it.

I see your welding trick is working for you, but you must admit it isn't the most practical solution for everyone. Wanting to switch turbo's, or come time for rebuild, it could be a bit of a nuisance. I myself don't take joy in grinding off welds, especially on a 1000 dollar piece.

But, Its tough to knock it too much if it works. However, I still prefer my solution. Lucky for you, I'm quite alone on that one.
no, there was no need to weld additional material inside. i plugged the one bolt hole that was open to exhaust gasses. what i keep trying to explain is that the other 3 bolt holes are fine. no additional material needed because they actually have some material there in the first place. the bad bolt hole (top left) doesn't have any material inside. the entire center of the bolt is just sitting there exposed to the hot gasses.

also, i understand what you are saying about removing the turbo, but for me, it's not a problem because i don't remove my turbo every other weekend or anything. as a matter of fact, i've never removed my turbo in the 3 years i've owned the car. if i remove it, it's because the turbo's dead anyway's, i'll install a new one, tack it, and not touch it again until it dies too. and it sure is nice not having to worry about it. realistically, i can probably remove that weld faster than i can remove the lower right side bolt! ironic huh.
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Old 03-22-2010, 08:56 AM   #999
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Quote:
Originally Posted by spoolin2bars View Post
Nice ^^^^^^ yeah, i bet those studs/bolts would never have a problem at the track. as long as they're decent quality (but not $125 bolts) they would probably last forever. is it that the cast mani. can't be made like that at the flange/throat area? how much would a manifold like that cost tim?
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$600, tight radius weld elbows are $$$ unfortunately. But that mani with a 2560 and my 3" downpipe made 265rwhp @12psi on my '94 1.8.

I'm making one of these in a vband/ewg style in a couple weeks.
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Old 03-22-2010, 12:12 PM   #1000
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$600, tight radius weld elbows are $$$ unfortunately. But that mani with a 2560 and my 3" downpipe made 265rwhp @12psi on my '94 1.8.

I'm making one of these in a vband/ewg style in a couple weeks.
cool, might do that when my turbo wears out. it's got alot of hard miles on it.
that's serious horsepower for that turbo/psi.
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