orion4096

iTrader: (22)

Thanks for the offer, but I'm on the two step program right now:
Step 1: Try new M10x1.5 studs + resbond + locking nuts.
Step 2: E-mail Tim.

orion4096

iTrader: (22)

I changed my mind and your PM box is full. I'd like a set of the manifold bolts.

chance91

iTrader: (3)

ok. I'll dig them out. Do you want me to drill them for lockwire or leave them bare? is 1/16th ok for lock wire or do you want a different size if so? 3/8ths x 24 thread is ok, correct?

Corky Bell

We've found a bit of luck with the inconel studs we had made by a first class machine shop. Also, putting a locking screw on each stud seems to resist volcanic violence.

We can offer the service on virtually any manifold.

Corky
hate loose nuts

AbeFM

iTrader: (3)

Locking screw...?

JasonC SBB

Maybe a setscrew to stop the nut or stud turning?

AbeFM

iTrader: (3)

Had a number of guesses myself. But, what good is a guess when the man who knows is there for the asking?

spoolin2bars

iTrader: (1)

just wanted to report that i'm 7 trackday's in and all is good. like i said, now that the upper left bolt (the one exposed to exhaust gasses) has been tacked. the other 3 bolts haven't budged at all.

kenzo42

iTrader: (6)

So vagaxt and spoolin have had good success by relieving the weight and stress of the turbo/dp from the studs.

JKav

iTrader: (1)

I would say the next logical step is to tweak the manifold's casting tool to add more meat in the area where each stud pokes into the exhaust stream, yeah? And then machine blind holes instead of thru-holes.

This approach might provide enough thermal isolation to eliminate the need for megabuck inco hardware...

But this is all a guess, having never seen the manifold. Maybe something is making this approach unworkable?

chance91

iTrader: (3)

I don't think extra meat in the manifold will matter like you think. I have my uuber hardware in the stream now, and I trust it more than I do the iron the manifold is made out of.

As for the standard stuff, it would just prolong the amount of time it takes for the studs to stretch, but it wouldn't prevent it, unless you aren't on the track long enough for it to happen. In which case it may work. But doing so would only be a guess.

spoolin2bars

iTrader: (1)

you don't "think" , but i "know" from experience. and it's not "extra" meat that helps, it's "any" that makes a difference. i'm lucky in that my manifold casting only had 1 bolt exposed to the exhaust gasses inside. others have 2 or 3, and all of them stretch and break.

and your right, it may only "prolong" the amount of time it takes for the stud or bolt to break, but there's no need to guess, it absolutely will prolong the time before it breaks. my other 3 bolts that are not exposed to exhaust gas have been on there since 2003, for over 60k turbocharged miles and over 30 trackdays. (some of them 2.9-3.5mi. tracks, lots of wot time) so while it's possible that they will break at some point, i haven't found that limit yet.

i can't tell you how happy i am that i didn't spend 4k for a new turbo setup, or even $125 for uber bolts. my buddy threw on a weld that took literally 20sec. and $0 dollars. and i can still remove the turbo easily when the time comes.

AbeFM

iTrader: (3)

Spoolin', any pics? of the welding...

spoolin2bars

iTrader: (1)

here's one i took back when i had it done. i can take a daytime pic if you want. (that's a shitty phone pic) but i think you get the idea. don't know what i'd do if say the lower right bolt was messed up or exposed to the exhaust gasses. i guess i could've had the mani. welded to the turbo off the car or something. but that would've been a bigger pita. like i said, i'm lucky it was just the one easiest to get to bolt that was breaking.

i actually just had the top left bolt hole tacked shut. no need to have a bolt there if it's welded.

msr-h2009pics011.jpg

TurboTim

iTrader: (9)

Shameless plug. There's a tubular absurdflow manifold that'll directly replace the BEGI piece and has none of the flange holes into the "steam". Through bolts are possible too. Pic below of the first and only (hit refresh or F5 if no pic shows). It's NOT a log mani damnit.

chance91

iTrader: (3)

You had the guy weld additional material over the bolt holes, is that what your saying? From the inside? That's what I was mentioning, and although its a fine Idea, I'm not putting my stock in it.

I see your welding trick is working for you, but you must admit it isn't the most practical solution for everyone. Wanting to switch turbo's, or come time for rebuild, it could be a bit of a nuisance. I myself don't take joy in grinding off welds, especially on a 1000 dollar piece.

But, Its tough to knock it too much if it works. However, I still prefer my solution. Lucky for you, I'm quite alone on that one.

Laur3ns

Nice Tim.

There I fixed it, 20 pages ago:
https://www.miataturbo.net/forum/t35874-33/#post449766

spoolin2bars

iTrader: (1)

Nice ^^^^^^ yeah, i bet those studs/bolts would never have a problem at the track. as long as they're decent quality (but not $125 bolts) they would probably last forever. is it that the cast mani. can't be made like that at the flange/throat area? how much would a manifold like that cost tim?

no, there was no need to weld additional material inside. i plugged the one bolt hole that was open to exhaust gasses. what i keep trying to explain is that the other 3 bolt holes are fine. no additional material needed because they actually have some material there in the first place. the bad bolt hole (top left) doesn't have any material inside. the entire center of the bolt is just sitting there exposed to the hot gasses.

also, i understand what you are saying about removing the turbo, but for me, it's not a problem because i don't remove my turbo every other weekend or anything. as a matter of fact, i've never removed my turbo in the 3 years i've owned the car. if i remove it, it's because the turbo's dead anyway's, i'll install a new one, tack it, and not touch it again until it dies too. and it sure is nice not having to worry about it. realistically, i can probably remove that weld faster than i can remove the lower right side bolt! ironic huh.

TurboTim

iTrader: (9)

Products

$600, tight radius weld elbows are $$$ unfortunately. But that mani with a 2560 and my 3" downpipe made 265rwhp @12psi on my '94 1.8.

I'm making one of these in a vband/ewg style in a couple weeks.

spoolin2bars

iTrader: (1)

cool, might do that when my turbo wears out. it's got alot of hard miles on it.
that's serious horsepower for that turbo/psi.