Well, after a few days of butt-tuning the J&S Ultra-Safeguard, I'm finally satisfied with the way it runs. Just installed new ZFR7-11 NGK spark plugs and wires today and turned the timing down to 10 degreess advanced (was at 14), significantly less knock and the little I have, the J&S tames it nicely. For some reason, cylinder #1 seems to be the only one knocking near redline. I'll chase that gremlin later.

Had a little scare when I a small puddle of coolant was left every time I stopped somewhere, but that was chased down to a faulty rubber plug next to the temp sender in back of the engine. I screwed in a slightly-larger screw and capped it off with this....

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Problem solved!

AFR a little on the rich side at WOT (10.5ish) and leaner towards redline (13ish). Not sure how to fix that, which is why i want to do more research before I mess with fuel pressures.

I decided to install just the base kit to learn more about boost before I add the intercooler, Bell AFPR, and o2 clamp. Had to get creative with the Bailey BOV and I think it turned out dayam good, and decided to do something different with the air intake location. Since I took the power steering and a/c, it was a no-brainer....

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I still haven't figured out where I want the fuel pressure gauge located. I don't like pillar pods but I might have to cause the line-of-sight is better then below the radio.

I learned a lot during the process that the greddy instructions (and the FAQs) don't mention. I'll list those later when I have time to help out the other NoObs.

Thanks to everyone here for the great info!! Stayed tuned for my "Round Two" of questions.

Zoom-Zoom Muthafawkers!!
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Just get a long hose and tape the gauge to your windshield when tuning FP. Then remove it because you don't need to see it once it's tuned.

 

NICE ,SO DOES she boggy now

 

Oh yeah, boost is ****** awesome!! I can't wait for the custom exhaust so she spools quicker though.

I can't believe I waited until my SECOND miata to do this.

I'm being nice to the tranny and diff since it's still 1.6 hardware. I have a full 1.8 tranny swap ready to go in, but still debating on Kaaz or rx7 lsd.

 

Congrats man! I think your AFR issues might be tamed by the Begi AFPR, since it seems to be better at regulating FP without spiking it. Have you thought about WI?

 

When you relocated your AFM did you need to extent your wiring harness? Install looks really clean, good job.

 

Good job man!

I am really wanting to install mine too...

How does she feel with the stock boost?

 

Nope, I still have about 2-3inches to play with also.

Stock boost is nice, but now that I'm used to it, I'm starting to get annoyed at the lag under 4kish. Bigger exhaust should help cure that. On the other hand, combined freeway and back-roads to work is netting me 28-30mpg still.

This goes on when I get a day off again....

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nice tam ! grats on the install. get a i/c on that bad boy so you can boost with the big boys = )

 

just make sure your sender stays on the inlet side, not the on the return side...

 

HONDAMAN..

Do you still have your heater plumbed in, or is that what youve plugged off?? it is a very very bad idea to plug off the heater hoses at the back of the head as they are needed to circulate coolant around #4 cylinder.no coolant= kaboom #4!

 

i think he put that bolt/plug where theres a factory cap.

 

If your baily is attached to that plastic outlet on the intake tube, that will warp after time causing a boost leak or your BOV to physically blow off.http://www.cardomain.com/ride/538158/7

 

Correct.

This the stock intake tube is just temporary, I don't plan on havig the BOV on it for more then a month.

And sender is on inlet side, check!

 

The 1.6 tranny is the same as the 1.8, no need to swap...
for diffs go with the 1.8 setup, its the easiest swap.
the kaazz is a nice unit, but won't give you more strenght.