I'm excited to see the KO exhaust. I've seen a few of his fab projects but it's been on race cars (laz), it'll be good to see what he can do for a street car's setup.

He builds sexy things. I want to fondle it.

Does he know about the mt.net approved muffler? Might be worth bringing him the one that we know fits and works. Might knock a few bucks off too.

It's a little finnicky, but if you loosen the compressor v-band completely, you can slide it off the front of the turbo and re-clock it without removing anything.

Looks awesome :bigtu:

I should call KO again and let them know it is close. I only talked with once some months back and they did sound busy. I am cool with the car waiting a bit though.

I will give that a try. I may just unhook the waterlines at the rubber and loosen up the whole manifold enough to tilt and clear the shelf.

I also ordered a new flex fuel sensor. I am going to play around and mix my own around 30%. I don't need corn at these starting powers but I think it will be fun to tinker. My intention is to experiment and see some benefit with less taxes on the fuel system.

​​​​​​​Did this. much easier than what I was thinking.

Wow what a pain in the ass pulling the tranny without a lift. I am seriously just going to pay someone to do it next time. So does this jack stand set up look sketch? Cutting the tab off with the tranny out of the car = winning.​​​​​​​


https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...96c259f2e4.jpg

https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...baa77154f3.jpg

Unbelievable sketch. Would not go under.

The 6 ton jackstands are cheap, and lift the car up plenty high enough.

I'll pull your tranny for money, if you have enough extensions on an impact gun it works well.

inb4trannypresscrew

More like Miatapresscrew with those blocks.

That is terrifying.

Tranny is out. I survived.

Jesus, now you know why I always say to pull the motor. Its easy that way.

To be fair I really shook the shit out of the car and it didn't budge. I also kept "just in case please save my life" jack under the car.

Yeah I had the same experience, I tried two 4mm allens, and neither really gave me confidence that it 'fit'. I ended up stripping one, and hammering in a torx bit to get it out.. I bet a 4.5mm filed down a bit would be perfect. They're also easier to get out when the turbo is super hot.

You mentioned the low boost actuator, etc. I recommend reading the Borg Warner documentation on setting preload. I set mine to very little preload and it builds probably 13-14 psi max, then tapers off to maybe 10-11 psi at redline (no EBC yet). You also need to have the wastegate rod VERY straight to work optimally - you might have to clock the center (CHRA) to do that.

OH and you'll likely need to trim the hood brace a bit to clear the wastegate can if your car is an NA (looks like it is). I used a paint pen and painted the very top of the can, then closed the hood. This gave me a little mark, and I just cut a 3"x3" square around that mark with a dremel - very easy.

Savington - you may want to add a heads up on these allens in your instructions. Like I said earlier what worked for me was a fresh allen wrench and lightly tapping the bracket at the top while turning with a rubber mallet.

I was hoping to tune it with ebc and low actuator around 10... Well lets see how long this motor lasts. I just picked up rods, boundary oil pump, 949 water pump and ARP studs along with a begi reroute. Looks like I will be using that stuff sooner than I want. The canister looks pretty straight but we will see.

I was wondering about that damn canister hitting the roof. Guess I know now.

"looks pretty straight" probably won't cut it. You need to make sure the flapper arm slides smoothly on the actuator rod with the lower nut undone. If it doesn't, clock the CHRA until it does.

Did you max out the lift range on your jackstands or something? Ran out of notches? Cutting blocks out of a 4x4 and putting them on top of the jackstands would have been safer.

https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...d43c0e38c9.jpgSo this is happening

https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...085ac55c51.jpgOverkill

https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...21c413aac5.jpgFirst aid. Nailed it.

​​​​​​​

Well I have no idea how to post a damn video but I have one rocking the engine back and forth on the motor mounts without the tranny. It moves front to back very easy. Does this mean my mounts are toast?

​​​​​​​I guess it is normal. Word.

So I reclocked the turbo so that the flapper arms falls off pretty easy but I have to apply pressure down for it to happen. To get it any straighter on the arm I would have to bend the actual bracket it is attached to. I hope I am explaining this right. If I could figure out the video posting from photo bucket it would be a lot easier.

I'll post the video. Gimme a second.

​​​​​​​
​​​​​​​So like I posted earlier. Should I bend the bracket down a little?

That's fine, no need to bend the bracket. They all seem to have a little kink up like that, but you don't need to compensate for it.

pressurize the can and make sure it opens and closes the flapper and doesn't bind.
I had to figure this out the hard way on an early production 6258 with the terrible ugly hotside

I told him to pressurize it too.

Build is going well, car will be cool.

Don't be so sure about blowing the motor though. You can keep it alive!

The new housings are like a mix of the nice investment cast and ugly ass sand cast. I should have brought mine over.

Testing the actuator is on the list. The list is actually longer than I would like but each day I get a few things done. I didn't realize there was so much evolution of the EFR casting. I wouldn't mind seeing a few for comparison. That said I don't give a shit if the casting looks like lava rock as long as it works well.

Take a good pic of yours.

@EO2K post your butthole housing
@Chooofoojoo post your sex housing.

I don't wanna, it just illustrates my failures as a man.

https://www.miataturbo.net/prefabbed...0/#post1237297

The new housings are shell-mold cast, which is the same process as what we used on our manifolds.

Shell mold is definitely better looking than the sand cast.

:bowrofl:

So I am standing here looking at my car. The tranny and radiator are out. The fuel lines are unhooked. On my work bench I have rods, boundary oil pump, arp studs and a 949 water pump. I am an idiot if I don't pull this engine and build it now.....

If it's in the budget do it

I've always found it's easier to motivate myself to work on a project car when it runs regularly. Buy a second block and build that.

Build one of my spare vvt blocks

Is it complete with head and all the stuff? How much? I really do not want to track down all the stuff to make it work.

It could be. But id rather keep the heads. I have one that had rock knock. Crank would need to be looked at. Other one has a cracked oil pan but could be made to work.

I have a mazdaspeed crank sitting in my truck.

perfect match

If you're having difficulty with hex keys/fastener tolerances, spend a few bucks and buy an aerospace grade hex key. SAE hex tolerances are sloppy in comparison. SAE hex keys can cause a ton of grief if they're used on aerospace grade fasteners.

​​​​​​​I didn't get this until I literally bench pressed in the tranny today.

#gainz #swoll

Made some progress. Clutch is done and the tranny is back in. Downpipe is in. V band for the win. I don't know who invented the V band but I hope they became rich. There is about 1/8 inch clearance between the back shelf.
A couple of stupid questions.

Does the turbo oil feed looked right? The instructions describe it this way but I want to make sure there is not too much angle.

What orientation does the lower downpipes need to be?

Any advice on how I am going to deal with the getting the intercooler pipping through this mess?

https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...c331fad01a.jpghttps://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...08ca4f7960.jpg
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...ef1f241880.jpg
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...26aeeb0559.jpg

Something like this?

​​​​​​​https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...b9b9dacb6.jpeg

Put on the rest of your exhaust to figure out DP orientation.

As for cold side IC piping. You pull off that line going to the idle valve, then run a 90 couple straight down. Cut the idle valve line short and hook it up to the IC pipe.

A reroute helps a ton with fitting I intercooler piping too

Just curious, could snap a pic of your chassis to downpipe to transmission clearance? I want to compare it to mine.

​​​​​​​Yeah I figured as much but I am not putting the reroute on yet.

https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...e19c0156e2.jpg
https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...22036bdb86.jpg
​​​​​​​best I could do.

Used grease to mark where I need to cut the hood for the wastage actuator.
Nevermind. I just nutted up and cut it. Somehow my hood got tweaked sitting on the side of the house so of course it fits like shit now. I am glad this is not a show car because I swear the metal is so thin it is impossible not to fuck it up when you get near it.


​​​​​​​https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...236f52982b.jpg
https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...7118062d68.jpg

I had to cut my package tray and bend some brake lines to fit mine. You have to keep in mind that you need to leave enough clerance for everything to move when the motor is shifting.
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...76e0897237.jpg

Yours is a lot farther back than mine. Have you checked your PPF alignment?

no, how would that effect anything? the motor is bolted to the subframe.

The motor mounts have a lot of front to back deflection. The PPF bolts to the rear of the tranny and ties in to the rear end. If you have the PPF set too low the engine can lean further back. If the PPF is set higher it tilts the motor further forward. At least thats what I just experienced a few days ago when I put my tranny back in. I could be wrong though.

hmm. I did swap my diff so that possibly could have done something weird but I doubt it. I never touched the tranny side.

There is so much tolerance stacking in that location. The unibody to the subframe tabs, the subframe itself, the dimensions on the motor mount, the exact location of the cylinder head manifold studs, the exact location of the manifold fasteners, and the bend dimensions on the downpipe itself will all alter that clearance. The range is from "fits by 1/8 inch" to "needs 1/8" trim on package shelf".

you also have an NA and I have a NB so that might have something to do with it

Might also help to change to a NB throttle body and IAC.

I don't get why people have such a hard time with the hot side pipping?:rofl: Mine has plenty of room. Here is the mock up. Cold side will still be the bitch.




https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...41c6d5474b.jpg
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...2aeff479ec.jpg