Needs wife mod.

Most expensive mod there is.

How exactly is this a problem? It's basically selling itself at this point. :giggle:

When she met me I was a daily driving a 71 nova that I had built to match the death proof car as a joke. I drove that thing for a year with a th350 and somewhat deep reared. Dynoed at 275 at the wheels which isn't crazy but was quick. I don't understand how she can be surprised by any of this car shit.

How much psi are you running? I must have missed it before.

10ish right now. I am battling with EBC.

Yup thats my situation as well.

I honestly think it is touchy because I am trying to keep it at low boost. It just doesn't want to do it and probably has super narrow parameters that you have to really test to get just right. Aidan spent 30 minutes doing pulls with me and we got it pretty close. The next day I got overboost. I have the low canister on it right now and it does 7 pounds. I am trying to tune at 170 kpa for the safety of my stock 150k block. The EFR just wants to do more. I spent some time trying to mess with boost by speed to see if I could tune it to waste gate for 1st and 2nd because here in the PNW with 205s it is a total shit show in the traction department. I didn't get it right and it just burned straight to overboost. I will figure it out but it was a bad ass eye opening experience of just how fast and far this fucker could go with ALLOFIT. Then tuning EBC will probably be much easier because you are just guiding the pissed of race horse and not trying to get it to trot.

Not exactly. It will hold ~150kpa just fine, with a bit of creep at the end. So ebc should have an easy time. Did you try raising the Delta like I suggested?

I did raise it I was still getting creep. I am going to mess with it more today. It is actually fun. I don't have any really nice open streets on my side of the river though. Mostly doing the onramp thing. I seem to be fighting issues with consistency.

With Boost control Speed table does is it just set the upper limit and anything below the upper limit reverts to the target table? Does my 94 even have a speed input back to the MS? When you set the table up do you want it at 0 kpa or 100 kpa? For example my table now is.
20MPH = 0 kpa
45 = 0
55 = 145
65 = 170
100 = 170
120 = 170

I suspect for this really to work well I need to figure out a ABS type sensor or something on a front wheel.

I wonder if it's possible to rig up one of those magnetic bicycle Speedos to MS, and then recalibrate it for a 15" wheel.

Your megasquirt has a speed input. It's really nasty. Cable might need to be lubed. Use boost by gear instead of boost by speed.

Look at your logs.

The cluster outputs a 0-5v square wave generated from the cable input. The megasquirt can read this.

Abs sensor is a VR signal that ranges in amplitude based on speed. You need a VR conditioner to take advantage of that. I currently have both front and rear abs sensors wired in so I can do differential wheel speed traction control

Why are you even thinking about messing with boost by speed or by gear when you can't even get EBC to work properly without it?

Creep on top = misaligned wastegate actuator

Good point. The roads are snot around here right now. I am tired of sliding around if I even remotely push the gas. I moved the delta way up and that did help. I am going to slowly bring it back down.

I don't have any creep at all when waste gate only. It holds 7 pounds every time without EBC. The creep happens when I hammer it in 3rd or 4th from a cruise as well. 4 to 5 k. But Delta turned way up did arrest it. I went from 20 to 35. I am going to dial it down slowly. I need to wait for dry pavement though. If anything the slightly delayed response is not a bad thing right now.

I am going to pick your brain at some point about all this. It is over my head a little now but it won't be some day.

Creep and overshoot are distinctly different. Creep = boost rise with RPM.

Sorry. Noted. I have/had a overshoot issue.

I would say there is 5-10kpa of creep above 6000rpm. Nothing noticeable, but it's there if you look at the data.

Should be 3kpa at most. I usually see none, even down at 7psi.

Andrew, that is with the 6758 and the "Medium" BW actuator?

That is both turbos on the low or medium actuators. 6258 should be 7psi on low, 10psi on medium with no EBC. I would have to look at logs of the 6758 on low, but on medium it's the same (10-11psi). No creep on any of the combinations.

This is with EBC set on a constant value (30% DC). So it's not true "creep". Just a rise in boost pressure as RPM increase. Dropping EBC duty cycle tuned it out just fine.

We didn't do any wastegate only pulls.

Setup Mode all 30% DC.

https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...86c3077ee8.png

Setup Mode all 35% DC

https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...9cd823c7a0.png

Random Basic Mode. (200 on the slider I think)

https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...2bde7e4890.png

Overall it was great. Started to rain before we could dig in more. Very impressed with the setup. Cannot wait to get mine on.

And the video in non retard mode

http://m.ebay.com/itm/99-00-MAZDA-MIATA-MX5-DOHC-ENGINE-6-SPEED-MANUAL-TRANSMISSION-JDM-BP-BP4W-/371784478765?nav=WATCHING_ACTIVE



seriously considering this. Figure $2,000 for this plus another $1,500 for refresh and assembly? I have rods, boundary pump, arp studs, Sm damper already. Yay or nay?

recoup a little selling left over stuff when I'm done plus sell my non blown up na8 engine and 5 speed. Or keep na8 for when I blow new one.

whats so good about it?

You can buy a vvt motor and 6 speed for less than that.

Yeah, I was going to say... Either I have friends that have an eye for stupid good deals or that setup is incredibly expensive.

I bought a JDM VVT motor with a 6 speed AND a squaretop for less than that.

why overpay for low miles JDM if you are rebuilding anyway?

vvt motors can be had for $500 at junk yards, and $600 for 6spd

That's a terrible core candidate.

THE PEOPLE HAVE SPOKEN!

We can usually get good VVT cores at AR for a few hundred less than that. I don't think I've ever seen $500 cores, but we've gotten a few 100-150k motors. These are motors we do a water pump/timing belt job on and drop in the car, generally very clean.

where? I have been searching and I'm not seeing these vvt 6 speed combos for less.

Also Ebay. But now that I think about it, mine was mis-listed as a BP4W, and I called the seller a few times to make sure it was the thing in the picture :)

It only makes sense if you're going to run the JDM motor as-is. You have an NA8 block, use that! Especially if you're going to refresh whatever VVT/BP4W head you get.

The car is running now so I would like to keep it that way while building a motor. I am going to need a 6 speed same time I Uograde. The bp4 heads seam to go for almost as much as a complete engine and I am going to need all the stuff that it comes with like intake and such. My thought process of using a core in good shape is I could possibly get away with reusing the stock pistons. I only want to upgrade those if I have to.

Call junkyards, check craigslist, and facebook groups local to you that sell this stuff. A friend just recently bought a NB2 engine/trans/intake with a clutch for like 600 or so. It had about 100k on it.

1995 Ford Escort GT


What about a Escort GT as a core? Low ball this guy for like $200 or $300?

Duuude. Don't pull that motore. Put the TSE kit on that.

Bahahahahahahahaha

Seriously though. Bad idea? I bet I can get it cheap and I kind of dig the valve cover.

Don't know much about those. Probably would end up being fine. I want the front subframe and maybe trans if you end up sending the thing to the junkyard. I have dreams of a rear engine'd miata powered dune buggy with an escort subframe.

Help me pull the motor and you can have the stuff.

so r u gonna get it?

looking at it tomorrow. apparently it runs and drives. I won't have to tow it home. Hoping to get it for less than $300

I did a thing.


https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...73207e2cdd.jpg

Ah, Martin's engine. I dunno if I would have recommended that. But it is what it is.

I don't know man. The price was right and I dig the fancy intake. Unless of course there is something wrong with it.

Martin just isn't known for being the most forthright seller. He's had nothing but issues with that car since he built the motor, yet he's advertising everything like it was all hunky dory.

Hopefully the issues were sorted and it treats you well.

Well great. Hopefully his issues were not with the long block.

Well I didn't see that coming.

Issues were with the turbos blowing up and the stupid fab 9 intercooler blocking flow to the radiator. Motor was running great otherwise. It ran a full season at 245 whp without issues other than constantly replacing MSM turbos, then the overheating issue reared its head when the fab 9 intercooler was installed. When the cooler was removed it was all good until another MSM turbo took a dump. Also why the motor received a head refresh and new t belt/WP job because we were trying to figure out the overheating which was the intercooler. Motor always made good power and had great compression before it was pulled.

Well I have a much bigger radiator and a much smaller intercooler. Also will be on the street. Now I need to figure out all this CAS and crank angle sensor stuff. My 949 Damper does not have a trigger wheel and I am pretty sure that is a thing. So just put damper on and use CAS? Needs 6 speed I thinks.

949 sells a 36-2 wheel that will work with your ms3.

The CAS wires will get repurposed and go to the cam and crank sensor.

Wanna trade than Honda intake mani for a VICS :D

Lol Aiden.

SURE. Seems like a fair trade. To be honest the fancy intake is what sealed the deal for me. And obviously the valve cover stays turbo. That is worth $1,000all by itself.

That intake manifold was nice, but there's little issues with it, like you have to bend your fuel hard lines a little to fit next to the manifold, and theres no provisions for an IAC. I did plumb a bypass solenoid to let it idle better when cold, and it worked great. Hook it up to a PWM output and you'll have a remote IAC.

Yeah he gave me the bypass. If you are cool with it I may pick your brain on to set that up. I am going to order the 949 32-2 wheel and NB throttle cable probably today. Trying not to go the lazy CAS route. I am going to try and modify the MSM oil return somehow. I am thinking of chopping the MSM bolt on return, adding a bead and bending it forward then having a hose made with 10an fitting on one side and nothing on the other then just slipping it over and clamping it. I will know more when I get my manifold and turbo on it.

Someone probably makes a 10an adapter or something for the msm pan

Something like this: http://www.bellengineering.net/product_info.php?products_id=211

But cut up your own and make it 1/2 npt