Trackspeed build plan
 

Well after a ton of reading I thing I have my plan worked out. Thought I would post it for critique. I will document the build when it starts.

Car is a bone stock 94 with 145,000 miles. Factory hard top, torsen. No a/c, power steering, cruise control, or ABS from the factory. My initial plan was to try and keep it low hp and build a second engine but everything I read says the stock rods won't last. So in an attempt to do it somewhat right I am going to collect all the parts and pull the engine for a rods and refresh build so I do not waste a perfectly good block and time. Then I can also do the oil pan return right and the clutch at the same time. I will have to cut a few corners due to budget. This is a street car and I currently do not have plans to track it. HP 275ish?

Current parts paid for:
Trackspeed EFR kit on order
Reverant MS on order
Force flow injectors
EBay intercooler(cut corner on this). This one and it looks pretty good. 27 25"x6 75"X2 5" Aluminum Chrome Fmic Bar Plate Front Mount Turbo Intercooler | eBay
AEM wideband
GM IAT


Still need to buy:
Clutch (leaning towards FM 2)
Intercooler pipping, clamps, silicone couplers
Rods, rings, bearings, gasket kit
3" exhuast
AEM boost gauge
​6 speed

Things I am considering buying:
Ignition (LS Coils?)
Better oil pump
Pistons
Damper
Oil cooler
fuel pump


Spent so far
$2,700 for the car
$1,000 on RPF1 and tires
$4,700 ish on current paid for parts.

$8,400 so far and I probably will need another $4,000-6,000 to finish the engine and buy the remaining parts.

Then there is suspension, brakes, roll bar (maybe), steering wheel and seats $5,000-7,000?

I honestly think a V8 or K swap might have made more sense. Especially since I could probably have sold my 94 1.8 engine off pretty easily. Or buy a used S2000/ Vette

What do you guys think of my plan? Additional things I am over looking? I love the little thing but man is this costing a lot more than I expected.

You don't want to install an EFR kit, and then cram it through stock exhaust. That's like bringing a super hot chick home who is willing to fuck, then you just put the tip in, pull out and call it good.

I make a lot of mistakes during this year, I just wanna be sure that you don't do the same things
-the BP-05 head has HLA, whitch collapse after around 4500-5000 rpm, reducing your valve lift drastically. Swapping the BP-4W cams and solid lifters on the NA head gave me 7.5% more power everywhere past 4500 https://www.miataturbo.net/diy-turbo...3/#post1318763
-The IC you linked was the same I had for the past 3 years, when I went allofit it caused a huge pressure drop, the maximum power I made on a dyno was 330, nothing more and with unhappy iat's. Swapped for a 450hp chinese core and gained a lot of room https://www.miataturbo.net/diy-turbo...7/#post1340802 ddd
-Regard turbo choice, my advice is to go 6758 if you want 275hp. The 6258 is capable to get even 300hp, but everything after 250 is really pushing to the limit, but with the 6758 you only need the medium boost actuator (standard one) and some ebc (wastegate only gave me 230hp).
-ARP everything, in the future you will want moar. It's written in the bible. Don't follow the ARP specs for head torque but less, some people cracked the head.
-Chinese rods like CXracing are more than enough, and they weigh less than stock rods

I think everything else is fine, make a build thread when you begin ;)

Nice DNA, great post. I don't agree with the turbo size, I think the 6258 is fine. That's just me though. Good information.

I hear you but I have to draw the money line somewhere. It may not be the exhaust where that happens though.

I really am going to stay in the 275ish world. Every thread I read here where peeps go over 350whp turns into transmission destruction, replace and repeat.

I honestly think you should listen to that advice. Spending the extra money on a trackspeed kit with a damn borgworner and a MS AND a built engine and then using a stock exhaust is just absurd.

Enthuzacar has an alumnized 3" exhaust for $400 bucks from the cat back. If you can afford a high end turbo kit and a built engine, you can afford an exhaust. If not, maybe you should do a DIY kit to afford it.

And IMO, with 275whp on tap you will likely want more rubber.

Take a look at 949 Racing's clutch as well, definitely consider it.

Personally I'd lower the power goal a bit to 220-250, skip the built motor and 6-speed, and use the money saved on good suspension/wheels/tires and some of the other things on your list. For sure a 3" exhaust.

For your power goal, I'd stick with the 6258. Having had both the 6x58 turbos, it's snappy enough. It'll be fast. It'll be fun. You will still break transmissions if you get stickier tires and have no mechanical empathy.

Flow force injectors will be stretched at 43.5psi and 275hp. Especially on e85. Go ID1000's.

Where to draw the money line is the decision to make, I don't believe it is properly drawn at keeping the stock exhaust. I know you already have a Trackspeed kit with EFR on order, and I don't know how "un-doable" that is, but consider this thought process:

Your goal of 275 WHP can be done with a lot of turbo and manifold combos. Trackspeed is an insanely awesome company, offering possibly the best solution to a properly turbocharged Miata. And in no way shape or form do I think their product is flawed, its got the R&D to succeed and I believe it will do nothing but satisfy hundreds of customers. However, those customers pay a premium for it. You already mentioned a budget, and that directly contradicts paying a premium for the best solution to get to 275 WHP. I think where you would save the most money is looking into other options for turbo/manifold combos that will get you to that HP number. T3 framed, journal bearing options, and maybe having someone build you a tubular log out of mild steel (it is not as expensive as you would think).

The lack of a full 3" exhaust will limit you, regardless of your hot side part choice. If you want the exhaust to cost less, use less mufflers and resonators, if you can handle a little drone.

EDIT: Also, look into Competition Clutch and their options for your TQ levels. They will hold up just as well as FM, and that is a hint ;)

I'm switching from a stage 4 Comp Clutch to an FM2. CC will hold if it doesn't destroy itself first, but drivability wasn't good for a daily.

Pucks are terrible for drive-ability, regardless of who makes them. CC's Stage 3 version is still a full disk (though Ceramic), it will drive better than a puck, but not as smooth as an organic disk. Rated up to 300 ft. lbs. though (assuming 120 baseline TQ, and 150% increase as stated from CC).

Used C5 is the "easy" button...

If you go this route I might buy the turbo kit and injectors.:party:

I am on a budget to a certain point. I agree with you that I could have made the same power on a cheaper set up but I feel the Manifold, Turbo, and Down pipe on the trackspeed kit are worth the money. They are the future and I hoping the money spent up front will pay off in the long run. Plus it has integrated ebc and bypass built in. I am after the spool and maybe a 2554 might have got the job done but I know the EFR 6258 will. You have all talked me into a 3" exhaust so that will happen. As far as a clutch I will read up but i am looking for something somewhat street friendly. Edit. Still leaning towards the FM2 clutch for the street.

I am considering the 1000s but I have honestly given up on E85 as much as I want it. I am not going to build around only one location that sells it local with semi shitty hours. I am confident 275 is doable with the flow force.

Wow, where do I begin??

To all saying he spent too much on the TSE kit: I talked with him at length regarding his budget and goals, and the TSE kit just made sense. It's literally $100 more than the FM no electronics kit, and all you're giving up is the intercooler setup, which can be done with super legit parts for well under $500. You absolutely cannot beat the TSE kit for the money.

Regarding the V8 or K-swap stuff... That would make more sense if you wanted to spend WAY more time and money for more power (V8 swap) or still more time and money for less power (K swap). For a street car 300 whp or less, you can't beat boosting the BP. All the suspension, brakes, roll bar, seats, etc would be needed no matter which option you go with.

Also, regarding all the other bits: You don't really need bigger brakes for your street car. Some better pads is all you'd need, maybe ducting if you still have issues. Roll bar is definitely a good idea for any aggressively-driven Miata.

Valid point about buying a different car. Have you driven an S2000? Why not come drive mine and go for a ride in the turbo Miata back to back, see which one fits you better?

If the S2000 fits you better... it's for sale...

Always a car salesman :)

Maybe with a lot of fuel pressure. Stock pressure is questionable. I was at 75% DC at 220hp on stock fuel pressure. And you really shouldn't run injectors above 85%.

So either spend a bunch of money cranking fuel pressure, or spend a bit more on ID1000s.

Can't go missing an opportunity to help a brother out :dealwithit:

Im just here waiting for Andrew to chim in:drama:

So I am going to order this exhaust plus a test pipe unless someone can point me in a cheaper direction in the PDX area. These guys seem to have a decent rep.

Racer, miata exhaust, performance

I recommended Enthuza because I bought a stainless version of the one I recommended you, and I was really pleased with the results. The extra $40 for the 3" is a great deal IMO.

thats a good deal.
but the "big" maggie is still best
last 6258 made 330 without breaking a sweat. doubt its tapped out past 250
don't limit yourself with injectors. it's just wasting money if you built the engine. ID1000 if you want more than 250whp

you either do it right and forget a "budget", or you stay under 250 and your "budget" will be way easier to meet.

I made 219whp on Rx7 460s and a stock FPR. If you were at 75%DC on 640cc injectors on gas, something was wrong. I just maxed the FF640s in Acamas on E85 at ~50psi DFP (NB system at ~10psi boost) at roughly 210-215whp. FF640s will do 275whp on a stock NA FPR on gas without breaking a sweat.

FF640s + Fuelab FPR is almost identical to the cost of ID1000s, and the FF640s+FPR option will idle a big fuel pump better anyway.

Ignition upgrade and fuel pump upgrade are required. Damper and oil cooler are both really good ideas. Oil pump is up to you - not necessary at 275whp, but it's only ~$150 extra over the cost of a new OEM pump from Mazdacomp. Pistons are not needed at 275whp.


V8 is 2x your budget. K-swap is perfect if you want exactly 225-250 and are willing to pay a 1.5x cost premium to get the simplicity of an NA setup. I have driven both (a couple LS cars and one K24A2 car) and an EFR6258 is still the way to go for your power goals.

Meh, driven both. The S2000's stock engine has to be wrung so hard to get the most out of it that it's not enjoyable on the street. Vettes are great, but much more money for a decent C6 or C6Z and not as tossable on the street.

Anyway, my $0.02. You're on the right track. Definitely don't skip the 3" exhaust.

I haz logs if you want to see them. I don't pull stuff out of my ass (usually).

yeah, and he's saying that's weird. and he's right.
if you were on e that would make more sense. pump gas 640's should get to 300

I'm not saying you didn't see those numbers, dude. I'm saying you shouldn't have seen them, and if you did, your car is broken :)

Hmmm, guess I was a little rich. 11.4 AFR. But nothing crazy.

Maybe my car is just weird. Idk. but nothing is broken. When I went back last month with a 60psi base pressure I only had 60% DC

https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...23e3187341.png

https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...b130ac8f17.png

640cc injectors, 60%DC, 60psi DFP, 0.55 BSFC = 315bhp. Punching the same numbers into the same calculator at your old fuel pressure (43.5) and DC% (75%) gives 330bhp. Way off. Maybe the FPR isn't raising fuel pressure as far as it should? Maybe clogged fuel filter? Something definitely isn't right, though.

Base pressure is actually 56ish according to my fuel pressure sensor.

68psi at 14psi of boost. Not exactly 1:1, but close.

https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...1cdb877fb7.png

Quarter mile times like up to 220hpish also. Who knows. Its just my data.

But back to farpole's plan.

Get your MS3 installed, there are a lot of locals around here who can help tune, but getting it up and running works great.

How much track experience do you have? Might make more sense to get suspension, brakes, and experience first.

Base pressure is actually 56ish according to my fuel pressure sensor.

68psi at 14psi of boost. Not exactly 1:1, but close.

https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...1cdb877fb7.png

Quarter mile times like up to 220hpish also. Who knows. Its just my data.

But back to farpole's plan.

Get your MS3 installed, there are a lot of locals around here who can help tune, but getting it up and running works great.

How much track experience do you have? Might make more sense to get suspension, brakes, and experience first.

There is a BMW club day at PIR this coming thursday. You should come out and get some rides.

He isn't actually sure he wants to track the car.

If I started going to the track I would have to give up other hobbies I am not ready to give up yet. I am afraid if I go to the track I will want to build a track car.

"Get your MS3 installed, there are a lot of locals around here who can help tune, but getting it up and running works great."


Yeah, I am already preparing myself for all the mouth hugs I am going to be passing out to get my MS3 tuned.

I plan on running a very similar setup in my car. Great feedback in this thread. Excited to see what you decide on for engine internals, coils, and clutch. I would highly recommend a roll bar for the added safety and rigidity that it gives you. Sub'd

Also interested in this thread as I'm about to pull the trigger on a turbo setup similar to this, though I plan to make it a track bitch. 220whp until I get an engine built. Waiting for Sav to email me back :D

Question to the informed - what can I expect to be different about my 02 engine with flat top intake vs OP's NA8?

ANNNND received an unexpected $2,900 medical bill. That will slow me down a touch. HAHAHA. FML.

Sux. Just went through that.

Car can wait. Staying alive cant.

The only place I could find any warning about additional fees. Bahaha. Lets just slap a little hand written note on the estimate that will cover $13,000 for a half day at the hospital.


https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...05ed91941f.jpg

Lolol thats fucked.

Hailey did an overnight stay and surgery. Bill was like $30k. Thankfully shes still on her dad's insurance. Anesthesia is fucked up, we got like 4 different bills for it.

I feel like I need a degree in medical billing to decipher it all.

MS and wide band installed. AEM Gauge in the eyeball vent. Will be taping the IAT in the stock air box as a temp solution. Thinking about mounting the Intercooler so I can start working on the cold side pipping. Still need to order clutch, exhaust, rods, rings, boost gauge, and possibly dw300.

I weld intercooler piping for lunchables and consumables. Get it all mocked up and taped together and I can weld it up.

You have a local place you buy bends from or ye ole eBay?

Silicone intake is good. Or ebay.

Is this ghetto? I feel like it may be. I managed to use JB weld, Duct tape, scrap exhaust pipe, and zip ties all on one part. I feel like I should have just twisted the wires together and electrical taped it to complete this work of art. https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...d451a76b9b.jpg
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...94f90808a1.jpg

Is it ghetto? yes. But it works right? thats all that really matters. Function over form.

Its typically cheaper to find the ebay intercooler you want with a pipe kit with more bends than you need included than to buy the intercooler and ebay pipe kit separately, which is still cheaper than buying the inter cooler seperately along with only the bends you think you need.

I duno if that is more or less ghetto than mine. I used PVC pipe and spray paint....

Pvc pipe and an npt pipe tap worked for me, years ago.

Paint it with some high temp paint or wrap with gold reflective tape and you've got a nice little piece.

Free hair entombed in JB Weld for all eternity!

So I contacted KO Racing in Oregon City about building an exhaust after a few smart folks recommended them. They are up for it and should cost about the same as enthuzacar but it will keep the money local.

I also wired up the launch control/ flat shift with a kill switch. I repurposed the clutch safety switch for this and holy shit that is some violent stuff. The flat shift will chirp 3rd pretty hard even with Sport comp 2s and all of probably 105whp. I think I am going to leave that shit off once I have decent power. Just seems like asking for broken driveline.

My stock steering wheel feels like a big soft dildo and I hate it. I picked up a 350mm Nardi with a NRG 2.5 QR on CL for $160. I can't wait for the damn hub to show up from amazon prime so I can get it in. I think it is a classy looking wheel. I may be picking up a set of V-maxx extremes BNIB for pretty cheap tomorrow. I plan on upgrading someday but I just can't stand the 4x4 look right now. The downside is it breaks my rule of never buying anything with "extreme" in the name because it is stupid. There is nothing extreme about deodorant, soda, or car shocks.https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...5abd9bc330.jpg

Gotta lot of experience with dildos, do you? :eggplant:

yes. I have systematically used them on all the buttholes of all the women in your family....including your dad....in a gay way.

Ftfy

:ughug:

OK so I thought I would update this. I started doing shit. I pulled the bumper, stock exhaust, and EGR crap. I set up the track speed manifold and turbo.

Just a heads up the three 4mm allen that hold the waste gate actuator bracket are sketch. two of the three where on there pretty good and I almost stripped them. As soon as they felt wrong I stopped and picked up a fresh never used allen. I also used a rubber mallet to tap the bracket a little as I loosened them and that did it. It would be nice if the turbo was pre set up a little more but I get it. The EFR probably doesn't leave the factory package and it would add time.

I had to trim a fair amount off all the 3 of the locking tabs on the stage 8. I just used a grinder.

The water lines are TITS. Just super nice. The oil lines are sweet as well.

I think I jumped the gun on putting the water lines in though because I haven't run my intercooler pipping or done the final clock on the outlet. If I try and clock it down I don't think it will clear the shelf or the water lines while installed.

I am still waiting on my drill bit from amazon to do the pan so that will have to wait. I am also waiting on a m10-1.5 to AN4 fitting from eBay. The kit comes with a oil pressure T for the oil feed but I am considering using the feed on my hot side 94 block. This obviously is not the intent of the kit. I am going to see if I like it but the oil feed line will probably be way too long.

I also got everything I need to get my GM coils in thinks to SADFAB. I am going to hold off on putting those in until I have it back on the road.

I am currently going back and forth on the whole build a engine idea. As a precaution I picked up a low boost actuator and a pigtail for the EBC. I hope to tune it safe for now then pick up a 99 plus with a running engine and 6 speed. More than likely though I will blow this motor in a few months like a asshole.

Plan for tomorrow is to install a FM 1 happy meal I picked up used in good shape for super cheap. Then it is downpipe time and eBay intercooler fuckery.

Here is some shitty pics. Really dark out and I have literally no lights in my sad ass poor people single car garage.
​​​​​​​


https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...db71fe65b8.jpg

https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...6babbdeb01.jpg

Nice. It looks kinda like mine ;)