Well sure, if you have no AC nor power steering.

try routing through this mess:

https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...79481d7141.jpg

If I had all that nonsense I would just go over the top. I regret not going over the top now. I also regret not putting in my reroute when the tranny was out and I could get to it. I have spent a hour looking at this and I still don't see how to do it. I am going to look into the NB throttle body but the main issue is my radiator hose straight OWNS that space now.

Over the top is heinous.

Reroute can be installed in the car. Just be prepared for bloody hands. It's easier with the mtuned reroute than the other kind.

Fuck. I don't wanna do it.

Disconnect the ppf and jack the back of the tranny up.

Then I might as well put my GM coils on now as well. It will be months before I can afford the exhaust anyway.

Fine. I am going to do it. I wonder what he had in here. What else would you want sensor wise other than temp?


https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...bf92fd4a1f.jpg
https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...e50c3e119c.jpg

Heater core, ecu temp sensor, external temp gauge. Plug the other one if you don't need it. Maybe water line for turbo.

I put a 30 psi pressure gauge for coolant pressure. It tells you if you have a coolant leak issue way before your engine temp skyrockets. I had to use a 90 degree fitting for it to clear the coil pack.

https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...b21f8e330c.jpg

Got the reroute in. Really wasn't the pain in the ass I thought it would be. Hardest part was just getting the old gasket off. I went ahead and replaced the heater hose. Hopefully it does not leak. I ended up making my own gaskets combined with grey sadness in a push tube. The CAS has been replaced at some point. Went ahead and did the valve cover gasket. No way I would do the CAS without pulling the cover. I am not really digging how things are ran in the engine bay. I am going to get it running then start cleaning things up and mounting things more professional. Plenty of room for the intercooler pipping now. Intercooler pipping is super easy with a couple of 90s and a straight section. Still need a tube put on for the Idle.


https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...e0a6a512b2.jpg
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Was there a reason why NB throttle wasn't an option?

I like mine. It's a short path with only two 90° bends. Then again, I also opted to retain A/C

I already had the reroute. I didn't have the NB throttle. I should have done the reroute while I had the tranny out anyway. The pipping was really easy after the reroute even with the monster track speed radiator. All I have left on the pipping is to add a barb for the Idle Control. SADFAB goodness. I like and recommend the bracket.
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https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...b4f22049bd.jpg

Temped in my coil wiring. I have a GM harness extender on the way but I wanted to see if I could get running while I wait. This is what I came up with for a intake. Kind of hard to put a intake on this set up because of how high and forward the turbo is. Especially on a NA. I trimmed the 90 to another 90 and it just touches the headlight mechanism. I have a K&N cylinder shaped filter with a angled 2.5" inlet I am hoping will fit under the hood. Thinking of mounting a plate around the downpipe as a heat shield. Hoping with some heat wrap around the heater and brake lines it will work. You can just see in the pic how I hooked up the oil feed. I ordered a an4 male to female 90 and routed the feed line under the manifold around towards the front.




https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...0bd382d767.jpg
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I still need to fab up some sort of heat shield too. I just need a lot of time and motivation.

I am hoping the man finishes his design sooner rather than later. I am scratching my head on how to do it. The current plan is to just wrap the heater hoses and brake lines in something. I may put reflective tape on the plate but it doesn't have easy mounting point.

I am also kind of at a loss here. I just can't see where a good mounting point would be. And its going to be a lot of cutting, testing, cutting, testing etc.I will do it eventually tho. I picked up some of that fiberglass header wrap in hopes that it will help. Its better than nothing so I may as well give it a shot.

i'm jealous that your headlight motor does not interfere with your inlet piping

I had to trim the silicone 90 down and still it rubs a little. I think it is as good as it will get. Considering a cowl setup but worry about ALL THE RAIN.

So just to make it easier on the next guy with a NA that wants to eBay intercool my set up actually went in pretty smooth. My mounting is pretty ghetto because I don't have a welder or the provisions at my place to really use of without some major wiring upgrades. I am not going for big HP right now so if you are I would go with a bigger and better intercooler. My car also came factory without AC and PS so it was super easy hot side. My cold side was hard. I have a trackspeed monster radiator and basically had to do the reroute to make it happen. With the reroute it was easy. I also have one of those custom outlets that go forward straight to the radiator.

First I used this intercooler
27.25"X6.75"X2.5" ALUMINUM CHROME FMIC BAR&PLATE FRONT MOUNT TURBO INTERCOOLER | eBay

I used this piping kit. I didn't realize it until I got it in the mail but it only has 90s and no 45s. luckily I did not need any 45s
Universal High Quality 2.5" Polished Intercooler 12pc Piping Kit Aluminum | eBay

I needed this 2" to 2.5" 90 to come off the turbo
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I tapped the intercooler above the outlet on the cold side which was plenty thick and almost had 3 full threads for the IAT but a bung would be better (once again no welding for me)

I mounted the intercooler with strapping from ace hardware I bolted the strap long ways across the intercooler using all 3 holes then bent it straight up and over through using existing bumper mounting bolds. I added one bolt through the plastic whatever it is called underneath.

Hot side Coming off the turbo clocked down
90 2" to 2.5" silicone coupler
straight 2.5" tube
small 90 2.5" tube
silicone coupler to intercooler

Cold side off intercooler
straight silicone
small 2.5" 90 tube
straight silicone
large 2.5" 90 tube
silicone 90 turned up
straight 2.5" tube up to throttle body
silicone 90 into TB

IAC bung is going on the straight tube going up to the TB









https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...9eaefdbfc1.jpg
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How bad is your wiring that you dont have a 15A 110V plug?

Really bad. My garage was added later. It didn't even have power until I dug a small trench and tapped into a existing 110 in a spare bedroom. It is already taxed. When I use my air compressor it trips the circuit pretty easy. I will get to my house wiring at some point. I could probably weld off a heavy gauge extension cord run to the house.

I'm considering upgrading my new 02 miata to this kit with a 6258. will be running stock engine, vvt, 3" exhaust, ms3, FF640cc injectors.

car currently has Begi cast log, gt2560r and a 2.5" Begi dp.

Car is mostly street, once a month autox, and a track day or two a year.

would there be faster low end spool? better top end? low, mid range compared to my 2560?

any dynos comparing 2560 and 6258?

Comparing those two, the 6258 will have the same or better spool, better top end, and better transient response than a GT2560R. The transient response above 4000rpm is as good or better than a GT2554R, and that's what you really feel on the road. The 6258's boost onset and power delivery is buttery smooth on the road, and it results in a car that feels strong even way down at 2500rpm. The boost never "kicks" - it builds smoothly and never surprises you. To get the same characteristics in a Garrett frame, you need a GT2554R, and the EFR will kick out another 75whp+ over that turbo.

Stop right here.

You just might need to reassess some few things before upgrading unless you just want to ave the kit on hand for when you throw in new rods, maybe even pistons.

Thanks for the response, i actually found a few dyno charts from a few years ago when FM compared the 2560 to the 6258 and under low/mid level boost the spool and power output was pretty identical.

I am mostly tempted by the manifold design, and 3" downpipe that will mate to my 3" exhaust, hoping that TSE manifold and 3" dp combo might contribute to faster spool and more power per PSI, since better flow and such....

Good point. i do like the 2560 and its a good turbo for stock engines, i think i better build the engine first and then do the TSE kit, as at stock engine powers, both setups are pretty close. EFR seems to outrun the 2560 at power levels north of 250-275.

My opinion on that testing is less than positive. They tested both turbos at very low boost and at altitude. If you did the same testing at sea level and with EBC on both turbos, I expect the results to favor the EFR. Maybe I'll get around to this someday (just found a GT2560R that's been hiding in the shop).

I would expect our manifold and downpipe to outspool and outflow FM/BEGi parts, yes. Our design is simply better.

You will reap the response benefits of an EFR even on a stock engine. I would do the turbo first, then the engine.

Thank you, i am pretty set on the TSE kit, decisions decisions.

I didnt mean to hijack the thread, i just noticed that i didnt post in the TSE pre order thread....

last question, so i wont clutter up this thread, NB kits in stock now? or there is a wait?

I would also do turbo first then engine. I have the 6258 TSE kit on my 03, so VVT, 640cc Flow force Injectors, MS Labs MS3, and I will very soon have a full 3" system (right now its 3" downpipe to stock mid pipe which then dumps straight out). I think with this setup at 10psi the car is perfect for the street. Just the right amount of power. I think I'm at about 220whp? I haven't dynoed it yet.

Thats pretty much my exact build specs, but with a 2560r currently, pushing 10-12 PSI, dynoed 217hp, power is good, but i want a bit more, i think the sweet spot is about 240-250

10psi is about 200hp in my experience.

i found that virtual dyno is pretty spot on to a real dyno, as long as you set all the parameters correctly. (weight, wheel size, gearing etc...),
weight the car at a truck scale, run virtual dyno in a 4th gear pull, then take off midpipe and do another 4th gear pull, and you will see how much you will benefit from a 3" exhaust.

Clutter away. I gives no shits.

The smart move for you is to build a motor.

Smart, maby. Fun....no

Is that on Tunerstudio? And can you just roll into any truck stop and weigh your car? People are saying the truck stops aren't accurate. Apparently dump (scrap metal) scales are better

Why not do both? Rods and TSE?

So finally got everything together. Went out and did some auto tune. My hot idle is pretty decent. Warm up is a little poopy. It is pissing rain so I can't really get into it. I have the low canister at like 3mm preload. I am seeing 7 PSI and it holds on that. I spent 30 minutes easing into it slowly. I haven't pushed it hard yet and don't plan on it anytime soon. I am going to leave the timing alone until I can get it on a dyno because I am a big giant pussy. My exhaust is smacking around and making a racket so it is distracting. I will fix that tomorrow. I also don't know how anything is supposed to sound so every noise scares the shit out of me. It is pig rich right now and auto tune is pulling fuel every run. My AFRs are still in the high 10s at this point at 150 kpa. Definitely quicker even without trying.

Is your idle oscillating when warm?

Not really no. I have my fuel blocks set pretty close in the 4 blocks that my idle is at. Same with the timing. If you have that problem it could be your timing.

I don't think its timing because it only does it after it warms up from a cold start.

What does it idle at? what is the timing set at near those blocks? Try setting the timing all the same from like 500 to 1400 and 20 kpa up to 55 kpa and see if it stops. When I had that problem thats how I was able to see if it was a timing issue. After I set my 800 and 1100 rows at all at 10 flat from 20 up to 50 it went away. Feel free to post your Tables. Keep in mind I am not even close to being an expert at this. We just have very similar set ups.

This is what I'm at now:
http://i935.photobucket.com/albums/a...x.png~original

Try matching the 1533 row with 12s as well and kpa row 53 as well. This isn't a fix but it can at least tell you if timing is part of the problem.

It doesn't idle at 1500 RPMs tho so it wouldn't do anything

I went to a gas station that caters to truckers, and they have a truck scale there, i drove my car onto the scale, pressed the intercom button, and told the attendant i wanted to get the weight of my car, she said sure, its done, drive by the front desk to pick up the printout. Cost was $11 for first car and $2 for second car.

I weighted my 99 sport w/turbo. came out to 2300 lbs
Then came back with my new to me 02 turbo, and it was 2460

So seems pretty accurate to me.

for virtual dyno, download the app to your computer:
Virtual Dyno

Then in tuner studio, start logging, and do one full throttle pull, then stop logging. open virtual dyno and open that tunes studio log file with virtual dyno.
make sure you create a profile for your car, with weight, tire size, and gear ratios.


eventually i will do both, but funds do not allow to do everything at once.

12* is low for idling. I idle around 15-17 i think. Also, use idle timing correction. You can tune the curve and it will help with idle a lot more than fuel tuning will.

It won't let me open wide timing correction. Its all greyed out.

You have to turn it on first in the idle advance settings

Oh, haha I feel so dumb rn. :noob:

I have a Mac. So I don't think its supported.

I am actually a little impressed by all the patience.

Stupid noobs, get off my lawn

Which reminds me. When you gots time to tune my shit for moneys? How do we talk everyone into a dyno day?

Probably not for a bit. I'm pretty busy and hailey is leaving for school soon. ill let you know because i think Ed and my other friend want to go sometime soonish

https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...738f7571b3.jpg


Air filter may be too small. It looked bigger in the picture.*Lay up for someone*

I know there is some fancy math that can tell me if it is ok. I will try and find it.

I am but I will be gone most of Dec and a Jan. I don't want to mess with timing until I can get it on a dyno. Hopefully with some det cans. I have big hopes and dreams of tuning my knock sensor as well. If you can fit me one of these days for a little bit of ebc sooner rather than later that would be sweet though.

Yeah, ill let you know my next free weekend.

Always email me for up-to-date stock checks. An NB kit ordered today would ship within 24hrs.

I will likely be looking to dyno in January/early feb. However, that might go completely up in the air since my lease is up in Feb and I may or may not move.

It doesn't run on it's own, but you can download codeweavers Crossovers software and install it.
I believe I am the first person using virtual dyno on a mac so I created an info page on their website to show that it's supported. If you decide to give it a try I will tell you what "support" you have to build into your "bottle" to be able to run virtualdyno.

https://www.codeweavers.com/compatib...er/virtualdyno

You can also install WinPEP in the same bottle I am pretty sure. WinPEP lets you view actual (mustang, dynocomp etc) dyno logs.

Yes. Or use something like wineskins. Either one works. Virtual dyno annoying to use in an emulator for some reason though. I just use it on my work PC.

Ed are you running a knock sensor set up?