Adventures in PTE/TTE
#421
Luke gets most of his seat time in a chump car these days. Cost is always a central factor in deciding where to race for every driver. I did the $120k/yr thing for three years. Had fun, won some stuff. Now I spend $25k/yr and buy the entire field dinner at every race and am having more fun. I don't miss PT one bit.
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#422
Eh, I take issue with
People are gonna spend what they are gonna spend, but I don't think the rules force a minimum expenditure if I am reading your comment correctly. I don't see how the comparison holds up for National-level builds either. That TC Design PTE Miata you posted is a serious piece of art even compared to a JPM STL Miata build.
I'm stuck with a stock NA 1.6 engine (+Megasquirt) from my donor car, so I chose STL over PTE. From what I've heard if you don't have a 1.8 in PTE, you may as well go home. At least I know a 1.6 is competitive at my local tracks in STL, especially after watching the Runoffs at Laguna Seca last year.
For either class I spent less than $6k over the period of a year to build my car...a total DIY implementation except for the work Tony C did for the rollcage.
And IIRC there's another thread for this debate already so apologies if my comment belongs there.
Yup. SCCA rules almost double the cost of the car
I'm stuck with a stock NA 1.6 engine (+Megasquirt) from my donor car, so I chose STL over PTE. From what I've heard if you don't have a 1.8 in PTE, you may as well go home. At least I know a 1.6 is competitive at my local tracks in STL, especially after watching the Runoffs at Laguna Seca last year.
For either class I spent less than $6k over the period of a year to build my car...a total DIY implementation except for the work Tony C did for the rollcage.
And IIRC there's another thread for this debate already so apologies if my comment belongs there.
#423
<p>
</p><p>There is a difference between "building a car for a class" and "building a <em>competitive</em> car for a class".</p>
Eh, I take issue with People are gonna spend what they are gonna spend, but I don't think the rules force a minimum expenditure if I am reading your comment correctly. I don't see how the comparison holds up for National-level builds either. That TC Design PTE Miata you posted is a serious piece of art even compared to a JPM STL Miata build. I'm stuck with a stock NA 1.6 engine (+Megasquirt) from my donor car, so I chose STL over PTE. From what I've heard if you don't have a 1.8 in PTE, you may as well go home. At least I know a 1.6 is competitive at my local tracks in STL, especially after watching the Runoffs at Laguna Seca last year. For either class I spent less than $6k over the period of a year to build my car...a total DIY implementation except for the work Tony C did for the rollcage. And IIRC there's another thread for this debate already so apologies if my comment belongs there.
#425
Power caps go a long way towards controlling costs.
I only took issue with the use of *double* the cost of a competitive STL Miata because of SCCA rules versus NASA PTE. I just don't see double after viewing the TC Design PTE build as it looks like at least a significant percentage of the engine costs have shifted to other areas of the car in some ways that can't be done in STL.
Tires are a whole 'nother ball of wax and I think that is where STL fails.
As an aside to Emilio, I found it interesting that your Miata during the Runoffs weekend was faster than Laughlin's through the trap even though it was down on horsepower. Proof that the SuperMiata nose job is the most slippery! I was at that race to spectate and took peeks at both cars to help with some ideas for my build.
#426
As an aside to Emilio, I found it interesting that your Miata during the Runoffs weekend was faster than Laughlin's through the trap even though it was down on horsepower. Proof that the SuperMiata nose job is the most slippery! I was at that race to spectate and took peeks at both cars to help with some ideas for my build.
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#432
I had a GTX. Trans was very fragile. Mine broke doing a half throttle roll out from a light, dealer replaced it. Archaic, basic full time awd system. 6" ring gear on rear diff, same as NA6. All three diffs open, wheel spin everywhere. They all had the short nose crank. Mine snapped at something like 49,600 mi, just a few hundred short of the warranty. Dealer put a new crank in it. Porky at 2680#. Rated 132whp. After all the drivetrain losses maybe 115whp. You could lock the center diff to make it a fwd but it would bind up the drive train something fierce and generate lots of understeer. Fun car but much slower than an NA6 unless you dumped about $20k into it.
That all said, every now and then I find myself browsing Craigslist across the country for one.
That all said, every now and then I find myself browsing Craigslist across the country for one.
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Last edited by emilio700; 07-29-2015 at 01:49 PM. Reason: speling
#438
Not quite the same, because I was asking for a TTE no asterick reclass, but this was my quote from Greg a couple months ago:
"141 rwhp with a VVT motor '96, would put you at 2610 lbs Min. Weight for TTE (no asterisk)---so not happening."
Coolsuit doesn't count as ballast, right? I weigh in at 2315 with me in it and 3/4 tank of gas, but I'm only 140lbs fully clothed. 250 pounds of ballast, coolsuit, radio, speakers, carpet, softtop, and I could probably get to 2600lbs. If I did that, could I say to Greg- "no, it can happen."?
He ended up giving me a TTE* reclass at 141whp and 2455lbs.
"141 rwhp with a VVT motor '96, would put you at 2610 lbs Min. Weight for TTE (no asterisk)---so not happening."
Coolsuit doesn't count as ballast, right? I weigh in at 2315 with me in it and 3/4 tank of gas, but I'm only 140lbs fully clothed. 250 pounds of ballast, coolsuit, radio, speakers, carpet, softtop, and I could probably get to 2600lbs. If I did that, could I say to Greg- "no, it can happen."?
He ended up giving me a TTE* reclass at 141whp and 2455lbs.