I've only been there twice. There are definitely places where you do best to give up an entry to set you up for an exit to a straight for the best times. The turn before the back leg that leads to the turn onto the front straight is one of those places. You want to be on the throttle as early as possible there to carry an extra mph or two for that whole back leg and straightaway.

It's a faster track than most people think. Turn 1 braking zone was over 130mph back when I was at only 8psi. You will use a lot of brake with those Hoosiers. I hope you have a good compound and a fresh bleed.

 

Yeah that front straight isn't that short lol. I do have a fresh bleed and new XP8s.

Will you be at any nasa events this season?

 

Do you run XP8s on the front? If so, that might not be enough front compound for the Hoosiers...

I was under the impression that 10s or 12s were preferred up front when running r-compounds?

 

Yah, XP10 front, XP8 rear. You'll fade XP8 fronts with Hoosiers.

 

I might move to DTC60/50 with hawk bucks, I really do like the Carbotechs though.

If I don't get hawk bucks, I'll upgrade to XP10 in the front.

 

I definitely plan to be but haven't picked the next event. And I usually run with some other groups, too. I need to get a few things done before the next track day, though.

 

Are DTC-50's available for '99 Miata rears? I've been running DTC-60/DTC-30 (Hawks Bucks too) but I go through 3 sets of rears for every 2 of the fronts, so my pad wear is never balanced front to back.

 

I don't believe DTC-50s are available for 94-05 rear standard brakes, so I'd be running similar to you, DTC-50F/DTC-30R. 3 sets of rears for 2 sets of the front is an odd offset. With carbotechs my rears last a good bit longer than my fronts, probably around every 2 sets of fronts I go through 1 set for the rear.

 

I got my dyno reclass(es) back.

PTE* 2230/125
PTE* 2160/120
PTE* 2115/117

Am I looking at needing a CCP top and doors to reach the 2115 number?

 

Top for sure. Plastic front and rear windows, 1/8" rear. No side or qtr windows. Snowmobile battery in pax floor. Pare down OEM harness to minimum, recheck all strain relief when you put it back in. I can't imagine the lighter reclass will be faster than the one with more power though. Track has to to all speed maintenance with no long straights for weight to trump power and that's only TT. If PT, you get rolled at the start and never recover even if you are on pole. Gotta have the beans. We did a lot of experimenting. Fastest combo for TT and PT was a fatty with 138~144whp. Ate tires and was harder to driver but won races.

 

Totally understandable, but the car I bought isn't as healthy as I hoped. Just working with what I've got. :(
This has got to be better than a points build at 2410 that's missing 20hp though.

 

I would think that a new-to-you longblock isn't significantly more expensive than implementing a gram strategy to make a PTF car run in E.

 

+1

 

For the power that your engine made, you would spend less money getting a good junkyard motor than a lightweight hard top and be able to make probably 120HP with minimal effort in order to use that top class with a 5HP buffer.

Then the motor you took out you can build over time as money allows.

 

Just curious, how fat did greg make you get when you were doing this a few years ago? My PTE* reclass at 143whp is 2570lbs. Gonna be hard (not impossible) for me to hit with only 140 pounds in the driver's seat. My car weighs in now at 2310 with a full tank. I feel like I'll start demolishing tires and brakes, and probably will just run TTD at same hp.

 

Points build, 2400# @144whp.

 

Damn, that's awesome.

 

Thats 2013 rules though.

 

I understood.

 

I agree with this as well.

I have planned/budgeted all along on plastics and a top. So i'm just shifting the order of operations a bit.

Hopefully a $60 cold side intake and a $200 custom catback get me to ~120whp-ish. Then 2230lbs is easy. I'll use both of these parts on a future points motor.

PTE*
2230/120
+3 4.77 Giken
+7 Gen1 Xida/BGK
+2 205 SM7
Plastics and lots of 0pt stuff.

Then "later" I can sell my RB header to help offset the cost a 0pt motor and switch to a points based build.