:dealwithit:

damn!

https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...ddc689e532.jpg


It's just a low compression, low boost, pump gas motor.

Well then you obviously did something wrong. And you gauge is broken.

Yea man...I did it wrong ;)

Pic of the carnage?

I know you won't post a dyno, but can you at least say if you have 250lbft by 2500? Kinda a stretch goal for me.

Just wanted to share these two pics showing the car leaving 11" wide CP style black marks coming out of a turn at the Bristol Tour.........and this was with the Traction Control turned ON!!!!!

Damn I love driving this car when it's running right :)


https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...b82fe55163.jpg
https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...c247be441a.jpg

Glad you were able to get it back together quickly and have it running right again. I felt so bad for you at Peru.

I think it needs another 75 to 100 hp

Why's compression so low? ;)

Because.....it's just a bone stock low compression pump gas motor. :)

Thanks man. It was a ROUGH day. Good thing it wasn't something more major than it was.

Here are a few videos from the Oscoda Pro Solo practice start session.


Did this one in second gear......just too much fun!!!!!!

Forgot to turn the traction control off on this one....so when I let go of the button it tried to stop it from spinning.....but it also shows a launch.

:likecat:

I'll post more later. But we won Back to Back SSM National Championships.

I ran the car in XP and was able to finish on the Podium in 3rd.

What an amazing week and a REALLY long season.

Now all the off season upgrades can get started.

Results here so you don't have to search thru the whole pdf of results.
https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...052532f678.pngSSM
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...69d0b4b177.pngXP

So are you still thinking of making the move to XP or do the new class revisions still make it less favorable than SSM? It will always be cool to see this thing with more power/tire/overall higher state of prep that XP allows.

Was nice to put a face to the name last week. Congrats again on the great results all around, Eric!

It's always impressive when the car looks as fast as it is on video.

Did you get to see it in person at Nationals?

Just a few pictures from Nationals

http://i713.photobucket.com/albums/w...psr5ffwmeu.jpg
http://i713.photobucket.com/albums/w...psf3wbgkkp.jpg
http://i713.photobucket.com/albums/w...pskh6lgeog.jpg
http://i713.photobucket.com/albums/w...ps2m5sqsqb.jpg
http://i713.photobucket.com/albums/w...psrbaoqemg.jpg

Here is a quick summary of the biggest off season upgrade for LaFawnduh.

Went from the Quaife gearbox which I NEVER had a single mechanical issue with to a G-Force GSR Dog Box. This is the same gearbox used in the current generation Nascar cup cars. I had been a little un-easy about turning it all the way up with the Quaife in the car.....now "I ain't skeered" I'm going to crank it up to 11 for this season :)





https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...1c1a72d5ac.jpg
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...5db956fd09.jpg
https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...6c653121fd.jpg
https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...d0e8e0dc6e.jpg
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...a58e1c297a.jpg
https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...9cc014516d.jpg
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...5928c0ca12.jpg
https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...4dc889ef67.jpg

Quicktime bellhousing?

Holy shit, that is awesome. How hard is to adapt that trans to a non-ls motor?

Got the shifter boot in today. Now the swap is complete.

On to getting the rest of the car back together......new ignition system, new ECU and more boost being tuned on Feb 25th.....running out of time.

Yea, It's a Quicktime Bellhousing. It was actually not all that bad mating the gearbox to the BP. I used a Miata flywheel, Miata pressure plate and a clutch disk from a 2009 Saturn Sky Redline. The standard 26 spline GM input shaft is the correct length. The hardest part was building the mount to incorporate the PPF and setting up the Tilton 4000 series TO bearing.




https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...84f2df229c.jpg

You still running the 7" torsen rear end? If so, how much of a fuse does that end up being at these power levels? I remember a couple years ago you had talked about swapping to a cobra 8.8 housing. Or does keeping the PPF necessitate something else?

I genuinely leaned into my monitor and said in a hushed tone "Ooooooooo".
How does this compare to the Quaife cost? I believe Emilio once ball parked it in the hardened gearset thread to be about $6k

Two different items I think. Quaife gearset vs Quaife sequential trans. Gearsets are/were around $2.5k last I saw, plus install. QBE60G sequential (what we have) is rated for a bit less power than Eric is probably making so the smart choice would be the QBE69G rated for 750bhp, $9700 for the box plus a 3-4k to get in and dialed. Used NASCAR box can be found cheap, rebuilt cheap and nigh indestructible at his power level. Quite likely he will run most courses in 2nd gear so shift speed on par with a sequential, <100ms.

What's the weight of this box?

Was wondering the same thing. Looks like the case may be cast iron.

Website says the case is magnesium. Looks like they make an aluminum case version as well. I doubt any modern race trans uses an iron case.

The Gforce is usually cast magnesium or cast aluminum. They advertise weight savings over t56 but i doubt its lighter then a BP trans. I think this is a better choice over a sequential because of the ease of swapping gearsets for auto-x.

I was a little skeptical that it would be iron, but between the texture of the surface finish, the fact that it was painted, and the ALLOFIT power rating I assumed incorrectly.

Also interested in this question.

Yes, I'm still running the stock torsen 7" rear end. In my experience, this is a fairly strong part as long as you don't have wheel hop. The rear control arms, bushings and shocks we use coupled with the Traction Control system really does a great job of keeping drive-train parts happy in this setup. An example of this is there are CSP cars that have broken OSG Diffs and MULTIPLE blue printed axles at 150hp while pulling 2.1 to 2.2 60' times in pro solo. I've had the same stock diff and stock axles in my car for the last 5 years at 3x's the power doing high 1.7's low 1.8's.

We have also been running a sprung organic disk clutch in the car. We did go to a sprung 6 puck this year. If we end up breaking axles or diffs, I will go back to the sprung organic disk.

Buy the time you buy the Quaife gearset and all the parts from Mazda to do the swap correctly AND pay a someone to machine the gearcase and to the install correctly, You will be into it a little over 6 grand at today's exchange rates

Buy the time you buy the box ($7500 is around what they go for used), the bellhousing ($1200) the Tilton throwout bearing ($280), the willwood clutch master cylinder ($60) braided line and fittings for the feed line and the bleed line for the T/O bearing ($80) the billet output yoke ($300) custom drive shaft ($450) clutch ($500) Shifter handle ($150) and all the metal and welding supplies you need to build your mount ($200) and buy other odds and ends you'll need to get it in the car.....you'll be into it over $11,000 and that's if you do all the fab work needed to get it in the car yourself.

It was exactly 11 lbs heavier with the bellhousing attached than a stock 5 speed. But that weight is low and in the center of the car. With the strength of the gearbox and the added ability to "No lift no Clutch shift" it was well worth the weight. We did take close to 14 lbs of unprung weight off the car....so it will be near the same weight when it's all said and done

This is a Mag case and yes, you can have the gearbox apart and the gear stack completely dissembled in about 10 min. We could easily execute a 2nd or 3rd gear change in between Pro Solo sessions

Got the dash back in and all the gauges re-installed. Got the wires for the Line Lock / Burnout rev limiter installed.

With that update, I will call the trans swap now 100% complete. It was a bit more work than I had anticipated in some areas....and a bit easier in others. All in all, I am quite pleased with how it turned out from visually. I was hoping it would look totally stock in the car....and I think we came out close. In these two pictures the shifter is in 1st gear. It sits about 2 to 3" farther forward than the stock shifter. But man...the throws are SUPER short, super precise and with the way the shifter is designed, I can't imagine EVER missing 3rd gear.

I cannot WAIT to get this thing on course in a few weeks.

https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...11447be5bb.jpg
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...18b830953e.jpg

You mention a traction control system in the post above. Can you say what you are using for this?

I've been using Race Logic Traction control for about 5 years now.

Their site says it is discontinued. Anything similar you would recommend?

Thanks!
That's 3 Lbs heavier than a factory 6 speed (which is 8 lbs heavier than the fiver), and for where the weight is located, it's almost a wash... Good stuff!

No one makes something similar to the racelogic anymore. If you can program you could add the functionality to MS, but its not there by default.

Eric, thats a 4 speed right?

Leafy are you saying megasquirt doesn't have traction control? Cause it's in there, works pretty well in a strait line, not so much in the corners.

MS has traction control but not like the racelogic. The RL takes all 4 wheel speed sensors and uses them to determine if the car is turning or going straight and allows for different % of slip depending on the turn. Eric can speak if it even determines the radius and allows varying amount of slip for the corner radius, I havent been deep enough into the RL to know.

Gotcha, I would say that racelogic does is boardering on stability control but that's just a name.

It doesn't really apply the brakes. Ford has had traction control that judges sidewaysness in mustangs since the late 90s but they basically used it as a safety device where you could turn the traction control "off" but as soon as your burnout got slippy TC comes back on.

Yea, They discontinued it about 5 years ago. They do come up used from time to time. But when they do, they don't last long. I have actually bought 3 just so I am sure I will have one if something goes wrong with mine.

Yea, unfortunately there isn't anything like the RaceLogic on the market. With the MS traction control is great, the RaceLogic is actually old F1 Technology and designed to work well in a car that turns.

Yea, It's a 4 speed. I have it geared currently to have a VERY small split between 2nd and 3rd. and 4th is 1:1.

Leafy is correct here. The RLTC reads the signals of all 4 wheel speed sensors. It then compares them to determine the speed of the car, if the car is going straight or turning and even how sever the turn is. There are different cut maps for going straight, turning, dry, wet and for "low speed get away" the unit I have also incorporates Launch Control. It took me about 5 years to get all the cut maps to work well and to be seamless.

It's alive.....and it makes the COOLEST noises :)

Huh we've always talked about doing that in like EP hondas and stuff because you could mix and match and they were low power but I figured you'd have had the powerband to go the other way. With the turbo my 1.8 had like a 38mph to 72mph powerband and more 32-76 with the 2.5 litre so going to a gutted 5 speed locked into 4th with a speedway or winters quick change in a 7something rear end ratio seemed like a reasonable option to drop weight and drop failure points. I even did some test launches in 2nd and it didnt really have a negative impact besides probably making the clutch something to replace once or twice a year.

Always cool to see the build progress!

Question: Why did you keep the PPF? Seems like that's the first thing I'd get rid of. Aside from all the drive line wind-up that thing introduces, I had the pleasure of being underneath an F-Production car with a PPF delete, and was really impressed how much easier everything looks. They say it makes R&Ring the diff and/or trans a LOT easier.

Neal

Playing with the new gearbox, new power and the line lock.

There are a number of reasons I see to keep the PPF in a car like this, even with solid aluminum diff and motor mounts. The biggest being able to use the pinion climbing the ring gear to transfer more weight to the rear tires on launch for pros. (I don't think there is another production chassis, front engine / rear drive car that 60's better than this car in all of Solo) and a big part of that is me being able to apply some of the tricks I learned back in my drag racing days that really work on this chassis.

How does that not axle tramp its arse off? (literally)

Proper suspension setup and great shocks.

I drove an SP car (Took FTD and FTP my first time sitting in the car) and the wheel hop on my first run made me think something in the car was broken.

The absence of wheel hop is why I have been on the same set of axles for 5+ years and SP cars break 4 sets a year while making literally less than 1/3 the power and going 1/2 second slower to 60'

What tires are you using?

biggens'



A7s....

Idunno...they're smaller than mine. But I guess I owe Eric some thanks for making that happen. :bigtu:

So I got to drive it in anger at a Test in Tune this weekend.

The gearbox is GLORIOUS.

The new suspension setup in MAGIC out of the box and there is still room to improve it.

And the new power.....O.M.G.

Got another test n tune in this weekend. First National Event of the year is in 5 days.