Midtenn

iTrader: (15)

Reroute on the cold side with no mixing manifold. I would have to ask Jeremy about the thermostat.

Chiburbian

iTrader: (1)

This is what I spent my afternoon doing. I will take pictures of the rest of the parts when I have a chance. I have most of all the cardboard templates.

The left panel sits between the radiator and radiator support structure and sandwiches it. The top flap goes over the top of the radiator and the hole at top helps keep it in place by going over the radiator mounting "bolt".





The side panel is placed INSIDE of the radiator panel and is taped in place with aluminum tape once fitment is properly set. There is a panel that bridges the center gap between the two sides behind the hood latch that boxes the airflow so it can't skip the radiator. Also, there is a bottom panel that ties it all together. I was in such a hurry to finish it that I didn't take any good pictures once it was done.

tomiboy

iTrader: (3)

Has anyone else tried this? If so with what kind of results?

patsmx5

iTrader: (16)

I meant to, but got in a hurry and forgot! My plan was to test drilling it out on an old head gasket first. But I got caught up in my build and completely forgot about it... I guess next time the head is off I'll try not to forget!

tomiboy

iTrader: (3)

No disrespect to Jason, but I'd like to see more consensus, among the track rats here, that this modified head gasket is the way to go. Emilio??

emilio700

iTrader: (3)

Unknown. Not something I have tested. If Jason did any controlled testing or at least has a report, I'd be interested to see it. I think there might be improvement to be made, Mazda addressed in in some fashion so it's not unreasonable to expect further gains with a custom HG + reroute.

NiklasFalk

iTrader: (1)

20 thermocouples and the engine in a controlled dyno room might show something. This is more around reducing the temperature differences in the head than cooling capacity.

Did the HG evolve for the transverse BP?
GrpA GTR?
If that did stay the same why spend time shooting in the dark when we already copied the original watetflow.

This is one of the few cases when the OEM optimization have the same target.

patsmx5

iTrader: (16)

Jason is the only person I know who's done it.

Rallas

iTrader: (9)

Is it really worth it to add the rubber flaps? I am making a shroud to mount the FM spec Spall fans on my Supermiata radiator and am almost done. I am now debating if it will even make a significant difference if I add some rubber flaps to my shroud.


My understanding is that these flaps will lift when the fans are not able to move the air flow that is generated when the car is moving at higher speeds. My thinking is that the increased pressure ahead of the radiator will reduce the amount of work that the fan has to do and will allow the fan to increase speed and move more air. I understand there is a limit on how fast the fans will spin and therefore how much air they can move.


Someone please educate me (with real world test data, if possible) why I need to add these flaps and how many (how big an area) are needed for it to make an impact on high speed operation.


The picture below shows where I was planning on adding the biggest flap I could fit below the fans and possibly add a small one at the top if a bigger opening is needed. This would end up looking a lot like the FM fan/shroud kit.


In this configuration most of the area is covered by fan in any case. I can see these flaps being needed when you have only one fan and 40% of the radiator covered by shroud, but doesn't seem like these small flaps would make a big difference on my setup.

sixshooter

iTrader: (12)

You've got plenty of open space there and should not need any flaps to get enough flow.

fooger03

iTrader: (2)

if SPALs, I wouldn't worry about the flaps. In order for the flap to be effective, there would have to be higher relative pressure in front of the fans than behind them, and given the restriction of the radiator and the power of those fans, I'm not convinced that would ever be the case unless the fans weren't running, in which case you wouldn't need the extra venting anyhow. A blocking bar between the shround and the radiator to isolate the two fans from each other would be more effective, so that when one fan is running, it isn't sucking in all of its air through the other non-running fan.

Leafy

iTrader: (1)

You can do the math.

You know the open area on the radiator is ~1/3 the core area, and you can use photochop magic to get the actual flow area through the fans and see if these add up.

Rallas

iTrader: (9)

I already have a blocking bar sealed to the radiator surface between the two fans.


I was planning on coming up with a better way to drive the two fans separately. I currently have the paralleled 90-93 setup with MS3 controls. I would like to control each fan separately so that most of the time I am only using the small fan and only kick in the big guy when AC is on or if CLT is above 200 deg or some elevated setpoint. I would like to even simplify it to just turn the small fan on at 195 deg and big fan on at 200-205 deg since AC will heat things up quickly and trigger the second fan to start based on CLT temps.

sixshooter

iTrader: (12)

Yes, you do want them both on when the A/C is running, but you may not automatically get there if one fan is CLT controlled. Sitting still, air will be drawn from the least resistance area. It will draw backwards through the non running fan and the rest of the radiator just as easily as through the condenser.

tazswing

This might be a dumb question but should/can I clean, some how, my A/C condenser?

-Fab9 FMIC
-Vented stock hood (Singular)
-Working on sealing the sides of the radiator but have the top sealed
-I can run both fans via MS2
-CSF radiator with H2O/water-wetter (been burped to death)
-Stock under-tray
-180* therm.
-Heater core taken out of the loop (worried about a leak there)

All on my MSM and still not very impressed with the track temps; they pushed up to 215* and I started using the front straight as cool-off time.

I feel I might just be stuck here due to keeping the A/C and or in addition might really need a re-route. My impression is the head gasket issue is ok with the MSM.

patsmx5

iTrader: (16)

If it's the original a/c condenser, installing a new one is almost a guarantee for it to be in better shape and flow air better than the 10yr old a/c condenser. Aside from that, cleaning it or straightening any bent fins will help a touch, but not much.

vehicular

iTrader: (3)

AC shops will hose home/ stationary units down with a weak acid and then blow them out from back to front with water and compressed air. I actually just did mine this weekend with Awesome (like Purple Power or Simple Green) then scrubbed it with a really soft brush to knock all the crust and dead bugs loose. Be really careful if you scrub it, as the fins are wicked sharp and will wreck your knuckles, but they're also really easy to bend, and it really won't flow any air if you bend all the fins up.

tazswing

Thank you.

thumpetto007

iTrader: (15)

These are questions regarding the supermiata crossflow radiator, march 2015 batch and newer...

1. the installation instructions say to mount the oem fans and shrouds using a parallel circuit, is the oem/stock fan circuit parallel? If not, how to I modify it to be so?

2. will I need to modify the power steering reservoir and/or lines to fit the radiator?

3. the Trackspeed sacrificial anode cap will NOT work with the supermiata radiator, what other options do I have for installing a sac anode?

thanks

patsmx5

iTrader: (16)

1. OEM is not parallel, if you search for parallel fan mod, you'll find a walkthrough on how to do it.

2. I don't know.

3. Not sure, but you shouldn't have a voltage difference between the radiator and the chassis in the first place, and if you do, you need to find out why and fix it.