When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
RB26DET with the fire wall massaged (read: moved like 6" back) to fit the ****** and the huge turbo in there. This is a WAG. Turbo Hartley V8 would be the dope ****, but it would be a 40k grenade.
Six lawnmower engines mounted radially, with cranks all geared to the starter ring of the flywheel. A single holley 650cfm carb feeding all six through a wicked looking intake manifold.
One of the best Miata fabricators there ever was....and he runs a factory subframe?
The cobbler's children have no shoes!
The butcher is not vegetarian.
Morpheus was maintaining legality for SPM from chassis standpoint and therefore kept the factory subframes.
I also think that there are more benefits to unlock in a fabricated subframe / control arms other than just reducing the weight.
Rest assured, when you'll see Morpheus on track next time it'll have tubular subframes, arms and most likely uprights front and rear with improved geometry, lighter weight and additional forms of tuning built in.
Meanwhile, a classic "if life hands you lemons" moment at Blackbird Fabworx.
Blown engine?
No problem, let's give the head a port and polish job before it goes to get redecked -
Might as well.
Also going to convert Creampuff to run on Corn go-juice before it heads out to the dyno..
Me doing a quick port and polish job on the head myself = no out of pocket cost.
Any more than 0 HP and I'm happy... had to disassemble the head anyways to get it decked.
Do not make the port cross-section any larger than you have to. Just smooth transitions where the plunge cut mees the port walls. Much easier to screw it up than to get make it better unless you have quite a bit of experience porting BP heads. I would recommend against polishing the port. If you want to go nuts with the polishing, do the chamber. If you are not going to CC the chamber's then skip the deshroud as well.
Make sure you do the exhaust port otherwise you will imbalance the flow in the head and possibly lose power even though the intake shows more CFM.
Shave the crap out of it though, .060 is a good place to start.
when it comes time to cut the valves, make sure the valve seat width is the same as stock. This is absolutely critical. Feel free to add another angle on either side particularly towards the valve stem.
Set valve lash with the head torqued on to the block.
Careful, simple and well-thought-out DIY head work can find you 10 or 12 hp without any other changes.
The butcher is not vegetarian.
Morpheus was maintaining legality for SPM from chassis standpoint and therefore kept the factory subframes.
I also think that there are more benefits to unlock in a fabricated subframe / control arms other than just reducing the weight.
Rest assured, when you'll see Morpheus on track next time it'll have tubular subframes, arms and most likely uprights front and rear with improved geometry, lighter weight and additional forms of tuning built in.
Sounds awesome!
I thought it was your track day beast...SPM...makes sense.
I have been looking at this front end stuff myself.
So much stiffness to be gained if it tied into the rollbar.
3 longitudinal tubes, tied, triangulated and perhaps boxed around the coilver mounts, aluminum fenderwell....with more clearance yet!!!
I have a man moment going on!
Would lighten the front end and balance the car a bit better....More space for the right parts...never mind suspension geometry changes you could play with!
Do not make the port cross-section any larger than you have to. Just smooth transitions where the plunge cut mees the port walls. Much easier to screw it up than to get make it better unless you have quite a bit of experience porting BP heads. I would recommend against polishing the port. If you want to go nuts with the polishing, do the chamber. If you are not going to CC the chamber's then skip the deshroud as well.
Make sure you do the exhaust port otherwise you will imbalance the flow in the head and possibly lose power even though the intake shows more CFM.
Shave the crap out of it though, .060 is a good place to start.
when it comes time to cut the valves, make sure the valve seat width is the same as stock. This is absolutely critical. Feel free to add another angle on either side particularly towards the valve stem.
Set valve lash with the head torqued on to the block.
Careful, simple and well-thought-out DIY head work can find you 10 or 12 hp without any other changes.
I've done it before, not a million times but enough to have a good sense of it. Last head I've done gained 11 HP on the dyno so right on the money..
Intake side the BP4W head is pretty decent shape as is, I cleaned off all the casting ridges and blended the bowls where the plunge cut borders the untouched casting, otherwise there's a big step right there. Everything here was left rough, no polishing at all.
Exhaust side got a lot more work done on it, I rounded off the step in the short side radius, blended the bowls and took off more material than just "cleaning" the port.
Exh side also got some polishing done.
I didn't set out to do the perfect P&P head job, just to see some mild gains from not a ton of work, which I suspect this will do
1
