I only have to build an engine once, I'd have to spend $1200 on tires every-other weekend. Considering the point system, I should be able to get there with points in other places.

Be glad your in an area with NASA... around here SCCA is the only game in town, which means I'm in SSM for TT's; an essentially open class. Its a god damn arms race. I'm classed with GT3-RS's, ZR-1's, Vipers, practically anything with two seats and doors is fair game. The only reason I win is due to lack of serious competition, lol.

For sure. Mine felt great at TWS. Ask zxtex about them. Mine are that old.

My point is that winning requires spending money. Any front-running car is most likely doing so on new or very fresh tires, good ($$$) brake pads, good power ($$$) and spend a lot of time ($$$) on track/test days getting the car setup right. If you're constrained by a budget, no big deal (I am a low-budget master myself), but don't expect to win the season championship in a competitive class.

Also note that the point system gives you the freedom to do whatever the ---- you want, not necessarily the freedom to have whatever the ---- you want be a WINNING setup. The point system may very well work out to allow winning, but your particular choice of point spending isn't the right combination.

Maybe I'll put those on and try to run HHR, if my turbo ever shows up.

I'm aware. There are a few cars in my class running NT-01 who are competitive...and they are all S2ks with aero. Again, I can afford the cost of aero or a diff one time, I can't really swing $1200 on tires every-other weekend. I really, really wish I could put a Giken, splitter, and wing on this car.

Why do you keep saying 1200 every other weekend? I already explained how you do it for 1200 a season. Drive to, from, and practice on nittos, bolt on hoho's for last 2 sessions per event. By the last event if you run 5, you'll have 10 or less sessions on them. Still in good shape at that point, sell'em, buy a new set for the next season using some cash from old set. Your still not gonna beat ken, but you'll be that much closer. Even if you bought the wing, splitter, and giken, you won't be any faster than if you just bought the tires, which would be way cheaper. Plus, your forgetting about the most important thing of all. Seat time. Not being a dick but your driving is holding you back. None of us here are where we should be, or want to be, but I'd almost put money that if you had the giken, splitter, wing, and hoho's, you'd still would have a hard time beating me, let alone ken-o. Stop trying to throw money at your car to go faster and get seat time. Maybe go in on a coach for an open track day or something. Besides driving, sometimes they can help with setup also. You probably have seconds in your car as is. I know I would love to get some high level instruction, maybe get saini to drive my car and give me some feedback. Lol

Yeah, I know. I have a lot to learn on TWS, MSR-H, and MSR-C 3.1. I'm proud of my times at Hallett, ECR, and HHR.

Thanks for posting here, I'm sure you have better things to do...

So your running @ 3400lbs? Jeez, I thought our PTB/TTB car was heavy...

Is the car caged?

TT weight for the car is 3415. I can get close to that but don't want to risk a DQ by going under. No cage. Trying to decide what to do next. I want a W2W car. Thinking Spec Miata. The M3 is fun but the real killer in TTB is a C5 vette.

So I can run 175whp in TTC, 210whp in TTB, or 211-279whp in TTS in my 2430lb car. Of course, these are Dynojet numbers too. I guess this is the nice way of NASA telling me to buy a Mustang, BMW, or Corvette.

Is this right? This means 949's orange car would be in TTA considering lb/hp.

CMC. One day I will be there too.

In TTB why can't you run 237whp for a 10.25? Or using the Adjusted HP, on 225mm tires you could run 246whp. Does the reclass toss all that out?

^ Pretty much - the reclass is a joke, GG gives you your new base class with max whp, but then you have to take mod points from there. At 236rwhp, GG reclassed me in TTB**; with aero, LSD, suspension, and tires - I was at the very top of TTA - right with the vettes.

TTS/R/U is pretty much a straight hp:wt ratio, but you still take points for some things, like tires

Because Greg Greenbaum says 210whp is my limit and that he will not base-class a Miata in TTA. By doing this he's basically giving me an option of TTB or TTS. When I starting getting ready for TTB I would have been able to run a lot more power with the same point list and stay in B.

TT will seem like a silly waste of time and money once you start W2W, it's a slipperly slope...

At least that was my experience.

I don't know which classes have good numbers in NASA Texas but I would run whatever class has the best numbers/participation not counting Spec Miata. I think the idea of Spec Miata is awesome, but the reliality of the class and racing in the class in the here and now is not super appealing to me. Here in the Great Lakes region PTE seems to have pretty good participation regularly, I think that is the class I would run if I were building a car. PTE is also popular in the Mid Atlantic region, and Summit Point and VIR aren't too far of a drive.

At 3400 lbs your car must be pretty hard on tires and brakes. What size are your stoptechs?

Gigantic and erotic.

CMC/AI is the king here. Trash with a car in the trailer, instead of furniture.

I'm wondering what size I need for my 3200lb TT car.

Like is 328mm X 28mm big enough for a 3200lb car.

Or should I go with the 332mm x 32mm?

Or buy 18" wheels and go with the 355mm x 32mm...?

Price difference between 328 and 332 is small, and both will fit under my current wheels. 355mm kit isn't that much more expensive but new 18" wheels are...

I'm guessing he has at least 355mm ones on a 3400lb car with that much power and rubber...

I don't know any of that stuff.

Lol, probably questions better posed to the Stoptech guys...