^^ This. I'd be stunned if you could cause this type of failure on the street.

 

Havent tracked my car since the beginning of the season, decided to take it easy. Finally getting around to prepping everything for next season and decided to check the hubs. My single spare is good. awesome. check the passenger side--good hub. im thinking to myself "can i go 3/3?" check the driver side hub aaand its the wrong machined one.

if people are reading this thread and still havent checked your hubs, check your hubs.

 

I was talking to a miata guy at the track today and he told me about having a front hub failure a few weeks ago. He pulled up pictures of the failed hub and sure enough, it was one of these shitty Timkens. The word needs to be spread about this garbage.

 

Thanks for the info everyone. Gonna go check under the ITA and FProd cars just to be certain. I'll pass the info on to friends at the next club meet too.

 

I just got these two Moog hubs from autozone, had a new Detroit axle hub witout the bad machining but ended up returning it because the flange thickness was 1/3 thinner than the OEM and Moog hubs.
Also did some research on grease and this Red Line grease meets higher specs than anything else that i looked at.

 

I have 8 detroit axle front hubs, 4 abs, 4 non-abs, all seem to not have the bad machining. I am going to check flange thickness on them compared to OEM to see how different they are.

 

What is spec flange thickness? I replaced mine but will have to check them when I do snow tire changeover.

 

I don't want to turn this into a grease debate but I'm curious as to what else you looked at.

The Spec Miata guys all recommend CV2 but around here we've been getting stellar results with the Amsoil Dominator product. Of course, I'm sure almost anything is better than the chinese fish paste grease that comes with the hubs from the factory.

 

I have zero idea, I was just going to check based on what the post above me said about there being differences. I was more curious if my Detroit axle was different then my OEM and by how much.

 

I am going to check all my hubs when I get home.

Also, Dominator>CV2.

 

 

OEM NA flange edit:(REAR)




OEM VS TIMKEN FRONTS




I can't see the flange being a third thinner, maybe the shoulder section, which is where I'm measuring here (OEM vs Timken ****)

 

Huh, unless both mt front hubs were changed at some point prior to me getting the car, my hubs look compleetly different and are thinner.

 

dc2696 is measuring rear hub flanges in those pictures.

 

Haha durr, ya the NA is a rear but the other two are definitely fronts.

 

I measured an OEM ABS NB2 hub (in red) and Moog hub (in black) measured in 4 places, the OEM hub does have some machining that appears to be for a seccond tone ring but the diameter of the bearrings boss is larger than the Moog hub and tha machining tapers off

 

This photo shows the much larger radius in the area where the flange transitions to the bearring boss, that is the area where a bulk of the load is concentrated when cornering IMO

 

Seems the conclusion from this thread is that its preferable to service ( repack ) and reuse OEM vs getting Timken / Moog / ect ?

 

Pretty much yes, if the ***** and races still look good.

My takeaway from this is that there is nothing wrong with an aftermarket hub, provided its made correctly. Just be prepared to do some of your own QC once you get them in hand and return them if you believe they are questionable.

 

Were people not replacing the ball bearings with better ones when they rebuilt them anyways? I had bought new better ***** off eBay to use when I get around to rebuilding mine.